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Discussion Starter #1
The car was starting for a few minutes than dying now it won't start at all. I checked the spark from the distributor (ignition key on) and will get very high unusual spark for 5-10 second then stops and will not happen again until you wait for few minutes.

Distributor is OK I did a test on my GTV6 and no problem there.

I assume has to do something with the ECU?

Giorgio
 

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ECU only controls fuel. There is a small spark box which controls (as far as I know) the advance curve - it's located in the kick panel behind footwell lamp at base of A pillar (pass side). Never heard of one failing - but it's possible w/ leaking sunroof or bad door/windshield seals for it to get wet.

Did you try swapping coils (failing coil) or coil module? Sounds like typical coil related issue. Check connection(s) there, the little spade connectors and the pins in the multi-pin connector can loosen. How about coil wire itself? I chased erratic spark on my Dad's Verde for a while and it turned out to just be a bad coil wire.

Also, though I've never encountered this problem, Joe C. @ Centerline suggests that a bad or dirty mounting surface from ignition module to the alloy base (which serves as a heat sink) can also cause problems.

Good luck - report your findings.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Well I meant the small box on the passenger footwell not the ECU. I tested the coil with the modular on my GTV6 and they are fine.
I will be borrowing the small black box from a friend to test it....if still doesn't work then the car has to go to a shop.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks Kevin. I will let you know if I need any parts.

Strange thing.... I have owned it for over 8 years and this is the first time it's giving me problems except the battery issue I had earlier this summer.

Giorgio
 

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If it turns out to be the ignition computer, I will give you a few bucks for the bad one.
 

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It may be possible to test the ignition computer without swapping it out. This is from memory so it may need to be tweaked. Al Mitchell (Reale) told me that a single jumper would take out both the rev limiter and the advance curve which is the functionality of the computer. I think that you jump the input wire from the Hall effect sensor to the output wire that goes to the coil trigger module. You will then have no ignition rev limit and the advance will be locked at max. That may not be the way that you want to run a road car but it may temporarily get it going and let you know what you need to do next.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
It was driving me crazy and finally Problem solved...I replaced the ignition computer and the car starts and runs fine, so it was not the distributor or the hall sensor.

Somehow water was getting there from the A pillar and the old ignition computer was filled with water from all these years.

Next I will find the source of water getting in and try to dry out the old one and fix it maybe.

Giorgio
 
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