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Discussion Starter #1
Can S-Cams be installed on stock 3.0 milano verde without interference? or is it required to also swap the rod and pistons to get clearance.?

I just need confirmation before I buy a set of S-Cams from another fellow alfa BBer.
 

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Can S-Cams be installed on stock 3.0 milano verde without interference? or is it required to also swap the rod and pistons to get clearance.?

I just need confirmation before I buy a set of S-Cams from another fellow alfa BBer.
Yes they can be installed without interference. It is best/hopeful seller also has wear matched and numbered intake,exhaust tappets and intake shim caps to go with them.

Even with that said, you will need probably need various sized shim caps for intake valves.
 

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Yep drop in and re-shim. I think the stock lower CR pistons have more clearance if anything.
It might just be me . But I polish the cams and cups when used. and inspect the cups for any abnormal wear. I just use a buffing wheel with the brownish polishing Jewelers rouge.
make everything shiny and slick.
 

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Yep drop in and re-shim. I think the stock lower CR pistons have more clearance if anything.
It might just be me . But I polish the cams and cups when used. and inspect the cups for any abnormal wear. I just use a buffing wheel with the brownish polishing Jewelers rouge.
make everything shiny and slick.
I do that buffing too and try to keep tappets in order of lobe they were matched with.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Steve,

When I checked specs, the milano 3.0 and the 164L were the exact same engine spec, but the 164s were different. it showed the milano 3.0 with CR of 9.5:1 and the 164s as 9.4:1 which is what prompted me to ask my question, but I think the difference is because i was looking at the v6 24V

Power-weight MT:
15.89 lbs/hp
Horsepower:
183hp
Displacement:
2959 cc.
Bore x Stroke:
3.66in. x 2.86in.
Compression ratio:
9.5:1
the 164S looks to be slightly less compression, bore ans stroke.

3.0L 200 hp V6
Horsepower 200 @ 5500 RPM
Torque (lb-ft) 195 @ 4700 RPM
Fuel Type/System Gasoline/MPFI
Valves/Valve Configuration 24/SOHC
Displacement (cc) 2997
Bore X Stroke (in.) 3.39 X 3.39
Compression Ratio 9.4:1


I have not done a cam swap before and was wondering if the hardest work is to shim it?
maybe I will just take it to my regular mechanic to make sure its done right.



Andres
 

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You can even leave the timing belt on.
But to be honest I think getting the inner part of the pulley off the tapper can be the hardest part. I had one set I thought I was going to break and when it poped if sounded like a m80 my ears rang for a whole day.(hint: ear plugs)
When it comes to the shims it is best to have someone near with a shim kit to swap with.
The 2nd time I did my nord I was over at Toms house and I forgot to calc in the clearance and did all the math and put in all the shims to have a perfect 0 lash.
It was at the end of the day and I called it a day at that point. When you start to make bonehead errors it is time to call it a day. I think Tom felt bad for me, the next day it was reshimed with the correct clearance when I got there.
 

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Hi

Steve where are you getting these "...specs...". They are not from the Alfa shop manual, and most of them are wrong.

For example
"Valves/Valve Configuration 24/SOHC
Displacement (cc) 2997
Bore X Stroke (in.) 3.39 X 3.39
Compression Ratio 9.4:1"

The 24V valve motors are all DOHC not SOHC and the bore and stroke are not equal.

In answer to your question, yes the S cams are a drop in replacement, and a frequent upgrade for GTV6's and Milanos.

As for as how hard the job is. Well it's pretty involved, you have to remove most of the intake system, change the belt, normally you have to put the cams in twice before you get the clearances right. If you haven't done it beftore you definitely need someone looking over your shoulder, you also need a complete box of shims or access to one. You also need a tool to measure the shims.

Bye
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I posted those specs but that was my mistake when I was looking at those specs I somehow didn't pay attention this was a v6 24V which is why I had doubts about the clearance, but I am clear now.

thanks for all the insight.

andres
 

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Are these the cams that give you an incredible 5 horsepower gain for maximum money? Or am I thinking of a different Scam?
 

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When I did it. I put in the whole S block with the long runners and oil sqirters and bumped CR as well as a stanalone ECU so it is hard to tell how much just the cans will do. but mine had a lot more power then stock afterwards. I can easy pull away from A stock verde which had the platinum gearbox in it. and me with the stock box.

when I ran the numbers in EA the s cams seemed to match the long runners. so converted to the long runners.

I think just cams alone will only help so much you want to try do a bit of everything. to get the most out of a set of cams.
little things like checking that the intake matches the port. and no gasket is blocking the port. some time there can be a lot of blockage right there. might be as simple as losing the bolts and lining them up and torquing the bolts back down.
 

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I can't comment on the 3.0, but I have them on my 2.5 and they made a nice difference at the high end. Not a huge change, but the engine definitely pulls a lot better all the way up to the redline, whereas before it would run out of gas somewhere north of 5K. No issues passing smog, which is another big consideration.

Now, I only did it because I had worn original cams and wanted to buy new-not-used cams. They're not cheap new so if your cams are okay it's probably not worth doing because it's not a *huge* improvement. That being said, I'm really happy with them in my Gold.
 
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