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Discussion Starter #1
OK I finally got to pulling the Verde's motor. I think I am pretty there.

Got past the digging into the head from the lifting point on the driver's side by using a 2X4 to spread the chain but will look into a load leveler. I went to pull the motor but the motor wouldn't budge. Should I have only disconnected the single nut on the motor mount or the bolts that attach at the body?

I have the unbolted three of the bolts on the donut but should I pull the drive line? I figured I could pull the motor forward but that may be that is what is holding up the motor..

Help? Thanks!
 

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Hi DOM!,
I've not removed a V6 befor, but have done a 4 cyl a few times in my old Giullietta (spelling, it's been years).

You will have to unbolt the starter motor and the rear engine mount at the bellhousing flange and also unbolt the rear engine mount at the chassis as well.

I also found it best to un bolt the steering rack from the crossmember and from the steering column. This allowed the rack to move forward enough so that you can move the engine forward so the tailshaft can dissengage from the flywheel.

Make sure you have removed the nuts and bolts from the guibo (rubber doughnut), not just removed the nuts from the studs on the flywheel.

Also, remove the rubber engine mounts from the car entirely (take the weight of the engine and piss the rubber mounts off), this allows you to keep the engine basically horrizontal but still allow you to move it toward the front of the car to disengage from the tailshaft.

Like I said above, this worked well for me on a 4 cyl. I could get that out in 2 hours by myself :p.
Hope it helps for the V6.
 

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You can't pull the engine foward if you haven't undone the pinch bolt. It's the one that locks the splines on the drive shaft onto the yoke of the flywheel behind the engine.

I don't think it matters which engine mount bolts you undo, either should be OK IIRC.

Make sure the car is properly supported on 4 heavy duty jack stands. I remember having to tug pretty hard with the help of a friend (like, the two of us yanking the engine foward for several minutes) before I could finally extract it.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
So I don't have to worry about throwing off the balance of the drive shaft by pulling it from the splines? I'll mark it anyways. I was afraid I would have to pull the driveshaft before I pulled the motor.. I figured if I had 3 of the nuts off on the donut I could pull it off those.

I have it up in front on jack stands but not the rear. I was actually thinking of putting it back down when I went to pull the motor again.

Thanks all, keep the suggestions coming!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Nice site Kevin. Did you unbolt the motor mounts from the engine or body side?

Also the lifting point on the driver's side didn't really seem to dig in like mine was doing last night. I also have my valve covers off so that might be the issue too.
 

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Actually I can't remember which side I unbolted. I might have done it from the body side as I think that might have been slightly easier.

I don't think having the valve covers off would make any difference. Depending on the size of hook you have on the chain it can make some difference on the ease of positioning everything just right.

Kevin
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Kevin,

Why did you attach the engine to the engine stand by the motor mount area instead of the bell housing mounts?
 

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remove the shaft. there is a risk if bending it if you do not.

I pulled mine very easy with the bell on. I just removed the bell mount the 2 motor mounts and both headers. pulled off the wires and hoses and it lifted right out.
I also took out the radiator. that gave me some extra working room. and there is risk of busting it when the motor starts to move around.
 

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Yeah, I took out the radiator as well, better safe than sorry. I had to go in a couple steps to get the mount on the bell housing to clear, jack a little, get under the car, twist and push, etc. If I recall I also had to remove the starter so I could twist the engine a bit to get it to clear the master cylinder as I don't have the ABS.

Kevin
 

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There is a nut and bolt on each side for the motor mounts at teh chasis, the bolt is on top and a stud sticking up from the rail for the nut on the underside of the motor mount. Also in back, there are the mounts for the rear motor mount, take all three bolts out on either side, that will give you more play on the rear mount. Pulling the whole driveshaft is easier, plus there are not teeth at the very back edge of two of the splines that line up with the slot for the pinch bolt, you can always take a marker and mark where on the splines the slot goes. You may also need to pull the brake MC to make it easier.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
OK, so I will pull the driveshaft out of the car. I didn't want to do it but did want to change the guibos so no excuse now. Haven't done tht job since like 1995 on the GTV6 and I hear it is easier on a Milano since you can remove the center brace..

I will also remove the two plates that the rear bell housing mount goes to ( have to take those down as I broke one of the bolts anyways.)

The ABS Master cylinder is off so that will not get in the way. Radiator will coe out also.

No one else had the driver's side lifting point look like it was digging into the head?

Thanks All!
 

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Are you talking about the little metal extension that sticks up above the head? I don't think they are very strong side to side, but work well for puylling the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Yes that's what I am talking about. The one on the passenger side is beveled while the driver's side one is just a flat plate. When I started to pull up on the engine the drivers side bent in toward the motor and looked like it was digging into the head slightly. Seeing it is aluminum I didn't want to take the chance. But i will put the valve cover back on to help cushion it.
 

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I think mine bent slightly, but did not cause any real problem, I left the VC on. Have you pulled the motor out yet? Progress?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Tonight I hope to remove the driveshaft, radiator and exhaust. Then I can see if I can get the motor out.

Darn work gets in the way of my Alfa's!
 

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When you pull the drive shaft, leave the rear donut connected to the drive shaft instead of the clutch, it will make your life easier now and in the future....
 

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Discussion Starter #19
OK, got the Stebro off (that was easy) and the radiator too (also easy.) Took off the other 4 bolts to take down the rear motor mount attachment points. Here and everywhere PB Blaster was my friend. The center brace was pretty rusted out, good thing I have another!

The driveshaft is still in because I was tired and it wouldn't budge. Sam, I left the donut connected to the drive shaft. I loosened the center support and the spline in the front. Nothing would budge.

Again someone give me the reminder as it has been a while on how to remove the driveshaft..
 

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1. remove exhaust
2. disconnect shift linkag (tap out pin)
3. remove cat heat shield
4. remove center x-member
5. undo 3 bolts/nuts between rear coupling and tranny
6. undo pinch bolt
7. undo center support
8. put jack under transmission front x-member
9. undo 6 bolts securing front tranny x-member to chassis
10. lower jack so that front of tranny goes down, separation driveshaft from tranny
11. once detached raise front of tranny back up, leaving driveshaft down
12. pull driveshaft backwards, off splines, and out.

I think that's it - done it gazillion times over the last years, doesn't take long.

Jes
 
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