Alfa Romeo Forums banner

1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
291 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Need to leave for the convention in Detroit this Friday, and the clutch master cylinder just failed:mad: Spent most of the day trying to remove the lovely bit from the car, but am beat and frustrated. I searched the threads for specifics on how to remove it from a Milano, but found only one reference to "removing the dash". I would rather not remove the pedal assembly from the car (since I just finished flushing / bleeding the brake system), which is the only approach noted in the service manual. So, is it possible to remove the master with the pedal assembly in place? Would this be done by removing the instrument set?
Thanks for any help, Jim-
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
380 Posts
It is really easy. It is best to use a ball ended extended allen socket. Remove the lower steering shroud and look up. The bolt are right there. It shouldn't take much longer that 30 minutes. The correct tools make it easier.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
460 Posts
The bolts can be a bear to get at. I use a long 1/4 extension and a 5 mm socket. Take you time and what ever you do, do not use air tools unless you are 100% sure that the Allen socket in the bolt. Good Luck.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
291 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the quick replies. Yep, I found the Allen head bolts yesterday, but the problem I have is reaching them with a tool. I don't think that dropping the lower shroud from the steering column will help, since the bolts are a good bit higher than the column. I have enough weird tools to get the bolts out, if I can just get access to the heads. It looks like the instrument set should be pulled away to allow a straighter shot, but that wont be simple either. Is this the approach you would use on your Milano, Andrew?
Thanks again, Jim
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
487 Posts
Just completed this on my Verde.;)

The instrument cluster is very easy to remove (several screws behind the left and right button columns) and provide straight line access to both bolts securing the MC. This is important as getting to the upper bolt is not easy coming in from any point lower than the cluster.

If you needed to pull off the entire clutch/brake assembly, lower access to the 5 or so nuts is easy enough. Bench bleeding before installation might help also.

Good luck!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
291 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Just completed this on my Verde.;)

The instrument cluster is very easy to remove (several screws behind the left and right button columns) and provide straight line access to both bolts securing the MC. This is important as getting to the upper bolt is not easy coming in from any point lower than the cluster.

If you needed to pull off the entire clutch/brake assembly, lower access to the 5 or so nuts is easy enough. Bench bleeding before installation might help also.

Good luck!
RAGs,
Thanks. I just got the instrument cluster / dash surround out, and it's still not an easy shot at the bolts. At least I can see the lower bolt, but the upper one surely wont be easy. Looks like some long days till leaving for the convention :eek:
Jim
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
291 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Okay, despite all odds, I've got the Benditalia beast out of the car:D With a lot of luck, either a new M/C or a rebuild kit will arrive no later than tomorrow (yes, I'm paranoid and ordered both, from two different sources, to improve the odds of success). As for the removal details on my '88 Verde:

-Removing the instrument cluster completely really was not helpful.
Entertaining, and good experience, but I still could not really acess the
two bolts.
-As 1166 suggested, the best access to the bolts (at least on my car)
was by removing the lower shroud from the steering column. Wish I'd
done that first, not last:eek:. And thanks for the hint, 1166.
-The bolt heads are 6 mm Allens. The lower bolt can be loosened with a
standard Allen wrench with a ball end, but the upper one will need a
long extension and a 6 mm Allen socket. I was able to make a 3/8"
drive work, but 1/4" would be a little easier.
-It's helpful to remove the clutch pedal position switch and its bracket,
which are in the way a bit.
-Getting good light on the work area is harder than you might think.
-Move the windshield washer reservoir out of the way, but you don't
need to drain it or disconnect the fluid lines (just unclip the sensor
connector). This is about the only way to get to the fitting on the hard
line on the bottom of the M/C.

Good luck to anyone else trying this for the first time. At least we weren't on the road when the problem hit -- and we didn't miss being on the road by much!
Jim
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
460 Posts
Glad you got it out. I have always used a 1/4 Allen socket and a long 1/4 extension. Removing the steering covers makes access a little easier. The instrument cluster removal does not really help. This job takes lots of patience working in cramped spaces and to make sure that you securely get the tool in the Allen completely. Many years ago, I received a call from a import shop that tried to remove the bolts with an impact and rounded the Allen bolts off. The pedal box had to be removed and the bolts removed with the air hammer.

Hope this is the last of your adventures in preparation for the convention.

See you in Detroit.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
487 Posts
Lunchcutter,

Is the pedal box still on the car? Dash in place?

The spring removal is much easier once the box is out of the car as it requires the full swing of the clutch pedal (remove pin) and tilting of the spring holder (in the opposite direction) to tease out the spring. If the box is in place you need to be able raise the pedal as high as possible (dash) to do the same.

Good luck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
82 Posts
Sorry, I have a Giulietta 116, there's no pedal box. There's a spring that sits between the firewall and the clutch pedal, and it slips over the piston arm of the clutch master. There are two bolts which attach the cylinder to the firewall, they are 6mm allen bolts and the top one was hard to get at. I used a 1/4" drive extension with a 10mm socket which fitted onto my allen tool. As I go to pull the cylinder out from the engine bay side, the spring between the firewall and nut on end of piston blocks it comingout . I haven't yet been able to work out how to get the spring over the end of the piston arm. I might be able to remove the nut on the end of the piston. will post results.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
82 Posts
got it

I got it off, it turned out to be quite simple. the advice is, the spring is not attached to the plate, just sits on it, so the plate can be slipped out quite easily. Here are some pics which should help anyone else!
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
487 Posts
Oh ...

...That spring.:p Sorry, my response was regarding the other:D
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top