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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have a new Aluminum radiator for sale:

$575.00 plus shipping. (regular price- $635.00)

For more information and larger pictures see link below. To order please contact me by phone or e-mail: (I am on vacation until July 11th, so please call 480-330-0844)

Milano Aluminum Radiator ? Alfissimo International



Thank you!
 

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*sigh*

Still waiting for mine to arrive to Australia, Jason! And I paid the normal full price. :p

All good - but hopefully mine will arrive soon cos it's been a while.

Richard

:)

PS: w00t, just checked tracking, and it cleared customs here on 1 July. Any day now! :D
 

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*bump* for a great product.

I received my radiator today from Jason. It's superbly crafted, lightweight, and looks bling. I haven't fitted it yet, but I've no doubt about it's fitment and performance (save weight; improve heat dissipation).

Very well packaged by the supplier, so no risk of damage.

Someone should grab themselves a great deal!

:)
 

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Radiator

Shiny Car, how did that aluminium radiator install go? Was it a straight fit? I am in Victoria as well and would like to buy one to fit into my Potenziata.
 

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Over 12 months on, it's still in its box! I haven't quite reached the stage (of my overhaul) of formally fitting it. Except for a quick drop in/out test fit, and it seems perfect. The only thing it lacks in comparison with the original, is a top mounting point; the original has a fixing for the 8mm bolt to secure to the top slam panel. I don't see this omission as a problem; if the coolant hoses are insufficient to hold it in position, I'll fashion up a bracket.

A$ is still strong, so makes these very decent value. I will be buying the parallel-flow AC condensor in the future too, for added bling (and improved AC function).

:)
 

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I am updating with pics of the fitment, which has finally been performed this month. Because it is about twice as thick as the original, some fettling was required to make it fit, but overall, it's perfect.

The main fitment issues are:
1. lower arm of radiator fan frame obstructed by chassis crossmember
2. power steering cooling bars need to be set back about 3cm/1-1/4"
3. new bracket required to secure top of radiator; probably not essential to have a bracket
4. thermoswitch positioned very closely to the chassis crossmember; original wiring plugs cannot fit because they protrude straight out from the switch into the crossmember; I will cut off the original plugs/terminals and fit 90 degree angle crimp-on terminals (no photos because I haven't completed this step)

Firstly, pics of the superb craftmanship.











I polished the top panel, which matches other parts in my engine bay better, compared with the standard brushed-metal finish.





Closed-cell self-adhesive foam rubber stripping used to seal against the car's opening.



This part of the lower arm is obstructed by the chassis.





I modified the frame with a new bracket, bent from 3mm x 19mm aluminium stripping. Additional holes were drilled to bolt it into position.





Frame was cut and pieces primed and sprayed in satin black, then everything reassembled. I sprayed the plastic fan with yellow engine paint, and the motor with aluminium coloured engine paint.









Modified fan bolted to the radiator plus new thermoswitch.





Top securing-bracket made from more 3mm aluminium stripping, which was polished. Neoprene rubber cut to size for a cushion between bracket and radiator.





Radiator fitted into car.







Bracket bolted to original fixing point.





PS cooling bars set back about 3cm.





The bars were secured with P-clamps, screwed to the original attachment points, with the addition of plastic spacers (not essential, but provided a little extra clearance). The modified fan frame clears the chassis crossmember.



Hopefully this helps prospective buyers of the radiator. The modifications are not difficult, but require a little thought and careful execution.

:)
 

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Some more nice work, Shiny.

Make sure that you fill the gap between the radiator fan shroud and the radiator, otherwise the fan will draw a lot of air in through that gap rather than the air having to go through the radiator first, to fill the whole left by the fan pushing the air towards the engine. Path of least resistance and all.
 

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Cheers Duk. Thanks for the tip - another visit to Clark Rubber is in order. ;)

:)
 

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Let us know how the hose install goes and where you end up mounting the PS fluid reservoir.
 

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That's very nice indeed and a good price for a new ally rad.

Just out of interest, I've just replaced the rad in my TS with a stocker bought from Fleabay for just £46 ($75 US). I've found that the Twinspark doesn't need anything bigger than the stock one, even on the track in the middle of summer.



My engine bay isn't as clean as yours...
 

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I thought about an OE-type replacement, but in the end, thought "Hey, why not spend some money!". Can't beat the value of your ebay one though!

Let us know how the hose install goes and where you end up mounting the PS fluid reservoir.
The hoses should be no problem. My RHD non-ABS car has the PS reservoir near the firewall, not at the front like some cars. But it could be an issue for some of you, I suppose.

But in a couple weeks, I'll try and update with photos of test-fitted silicone radiator hoses, and the thermoswitch wiring connected.

:)
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Nice work indeed. Hope you like the radiator performance. Thanks for posting. We do a lot of these radiators and I work closely with the builder, so I will make sure that we note the issue with the fan. We try to get it as perfect as possible. I spent lots of time on the radiator design and will look into a slight adjustment again. The rubber is a good add there as you do not want vibration nor it being grounded to the chassis. Thank you and Enjoy! Come see me again!! Ciao!
 

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The rubber is a good add there as you do not want vibration nor it being grounded to the chassis. Thank you and Enjoy! Come see me again!! Ciao!
I forgot to mention that in my previous post. Make sure you have load of resistance between the body and the radiator. Electrolysis will kill an aluminium radiator quick smart.
Another test would be a voltage test between the radiator and the negative battery terminal. Any sign of voltage potential will equal electrolysis and must be sorted.
 

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We do a lot of these radiators and I work closely with the builder, so I will make sure that we note the issue with the fan. We try to get it as perfect as possible. I spent lots of time on the radiator design and will look into a slight adjustment again.
Thanks for checking this out. :)

Not much you can do with the fan frame or PS bars without making the radiator much thinner, like the original, but of course this will largely negate one of its main benefits. Then again, it's still going to be better than the factory one.

If it remains the same thickness, my main suggestion would be to relocate the thermoswitch position up higher (ie: between the fan frame mounting points); plenty of room there, and no issues with the wiring, and it will be measuring hotter coolant, and make the fan kick in sooner (not a bad thing).

I forgot to mention that in my previous post. Make sure you have load of resistance between the body and the radiator. Electrolysis will kill an aluminium radiator quick smart.
Yes, aware of this :eek: . Once up and running, I'll measure any potential difference and fix it accordingly. Cheers.

:)
 
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