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Discussion Starter #1
I'm in the process of fixing cam on ring leaks, timing belt job, ac delete/alternator relocation, so might as well start something else.

The rusty grille and beat up emblem bothered me since I bought the car in summer 2013. I think the chrome is going to end up black now. It's beat up and I don't want to buy a new one.

A couple beers, drill one rivet, 10 minutes later and the grille is off.
 

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I spent part of the day making a front brace for an A/C delete for Brewtech's car:) My take on it is...it may be worth carrying the parts to do the relocate incase you brake down on a trip somewhere. Otherwise, I'd just put a new bearing in the compressor and leave well enough alone.
I had to replace the lower tensioner bolt for one that had only 1 washer so the belt doesn't interfere and I don't like the location of the wires with the alternator in the compressor spot. I may add a heat shield to protect them from the exhaust manifold.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Richard! I'll keep an eye out for that. I was wondering how the alt wires would end up down near the header. I'll look into shields if necessary.

Please post any helpful pics either in brewtechs thread or my ac delete thread.
 

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I painted the bracket and spacer. When they dry tomorrow, I'll tank a couple of pics. It's mounted on a spare engine so haven't got the wiring harness connected, but it looks too close to me. I also can't check interference from the steel coolant pipe that runs to the thermostat in that area. The bracket on the pipe is broken on both of my cars, so I think it will clear, but not sure on a car with the pipe secured.
 

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Richard, did you make the bracket straight, with a long spacer, or zig zag like pinino indicated?
 

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I made a straight bracket with a spacer made from a 3/8 pipe nipple to go between the head of the bolt and the alternator bracket. Pics tomorrow:)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Something to add maybe to the other threads...this isn't a side of the road repair. I'm not sure if that was clear there.

Carry the parts and directions, but the car is going to a garage.
 

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I couldn't agree more! I also agree with Roadtrip...replace the bearing on a preventative maintenance basis
 

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need parts for the grill? I have three (I think) of them in various stages of repair. "nuther of my dumb stories: When Idling, Rossa squeaks like a mouse @ times. I tried parking near cats, away from cheese and all the usual tricks. I dont remember how I found the source of the skweek but it turned out to be the lower rubber weatherstripping on the louvered part of the grill, rubbing the top of the bumper cover. Needless to say, the mouse is now dead. ciao, jc
 

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What, in your opinion, makes it not a potential side of the road repair/replacement? If you have the appropriate tools, seems like that with a little time, one could remove the alt and the a/c pump, and then remount the alt down below, using the new length belt. Of course, one would have to know just which tools you would need to do this.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I think the easiest way I can summarize....Outside of being stuck in the zombie apocalypse or another really bad situation, you'd need some serious motivation to get this done.

Removing the compressor alone is no picnic. If darkness was approaching or if I was anywhere near traffic, I just wouldn't want to be doing this job.

If you want to get technical, yes it could be done if all the right pieces were available and the breakdown timing was right (early in the day). It would help very much to be a seasoned 164 mechanic.

A big hangup for me...if I was anywhere near traffic, I wouldn't want to be under the car supported by the scissor jack for as long as this would take. I don't know if I would want to be under there period for that long. Traveling with a 2 ton floor jack and a set of stands is not practical.
 

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This is not a change your tire on the side of the road job. It takes some serious wrenching and some time as John pointed out. You'll likely be crawling under the car to get the lower compressor bolt (assuming it's pointed in the right direction). Remove the alternator though the headlight hole, after removing it. It's easier to get the alternator out if you remove the upper radiator hose. What happens if you get all that done and you can't get the hoses off the compressor? It's just plain to involved.
Carry the parts and directions to direct a shop on how to do it. Better yet, change out the compressor bearing on a preventative maintenance basis and forget about it. The reason these are failing now is they are old and have lots of miles on them. They weren't a problem for years.
 

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You are most likely correct. I've not done it, so I must consider myself corrected on the complexity of the change.

Maybe then the simplest option, if you are stuck out of cell phone range, is to trust driving on just the battery using the shortest belt to get to a better place to attempt a repair of any kind, whether it a garage or whatever.

Otherwise, if you have the time, talent, or money, just do as suggested above in having the a/c pump bearing replaced every 50k miles or so?
 

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Maybe we need to include the A/C pulley bearing change out when you first get the used 164 along with new timing belt and water pump and then every 70,000 miles along with 2nd timing belt and water pump change. Better include serpentine belt pulley bearing, too.

Do timing belt every 35,000 miles or 5 years max.
 

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sounds like another party I can skip!!! :beta1: ciao, chris
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Nothing too exciting, but I got finally got back to this grille repair. All the rust was removed from the holding frame.

Under advisement from consigliere Chris in Italy, I decided to fill the pits in the metal frame with glazing compound.

I polished the chrome insert with mothers polish. It cleaned up a little, so I'll reinstall it as is. I'm not confident that I can get a chrome paint to turn out well. I originally thought I would paint the chrome black, but the original contrast is nice.

There are a couple epoxy repairs on the black plastic inserts, so I'll conceal those with black paint and then try a "back to black" type trim restorer on them.
 

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