Measure liner height above the block?
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Push them down by hand firmly with no o-rings, lay a substantial straight edge across the liner top, make sure it's all square and happy, and measure the excess above the block edge, if any, with a feeler gauge. There's a factory tool for this tool, but if you're asking, I'm guessing you don't have it.
Andrew
Andrew
I believe the manual says that you should install the liner hold downs and torque them to like 10 ft-lbs.
I used an aluminum bar about 1" X 3/4" X 8" long or so with a hole drilled at one end to accept the dial indicator from my bore gauge (kind of a press fit). Just zero it on a flat surface then lay the bar across the liner with the dial gauge on the block.
I used an aluminum bar about 1" X 3/4" X 8" long or so with a hole drilled at one end to accept the dial indicator from my bore gauge (kind of a press fit). Just zero it on a flat surface then lay the bar across the liner with the dial gauge on the block.
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Measuring cylinder protrusion
You are correct. The manual specifies measuring the protrusion with the O-ring seals in place, but it also calls out for the retaining tool to be in place and torqued to about 10 ft-lbs. One might guess that this would crush the O-ring sufficiently that the cylinder was metal-to-metal at the bottom.
The assembly procedure appears to assume that one is actually building the engine rather than just checking things prior to a final re-assembly. I would expect a non-O-ring check to be a valid confirmation that the cylinders were at the right tolerance.
Anyway, here's the sequence from the manual.
You are correct. The manual specifies measuring the protrusion with the O-ring seals in place, but it also calls out for the retaining tool to be in place and torqued to about 10 ft-lbs. One might guess that this would crush the O-ring sufficiently that the cylinder was metal-to-metal at the bottom.
The assembly procedure appears to assume that one is actually building the engine rather than just checking things prior to a final re-assembly. I would expect a non-O-ring check to be a valid confirmation that the cylinders were at the right tolerance.
Anyway, here's the sequence from the manual.
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I used the same method as Andrew. I used a carpenters combination square for the straight edge, and a feeler gauge.
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