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PS - I don't like my impulse choice of license plate. I'm going to change it. Leading choice at the moment is "Tango". Open to others. "PU$$Y"?
Well done Don, the car looks beautiful; how about BELLA! (Beautiful in Italian)

Road and Track did an article years ago on prestige license plates. One of my favorites was "IXLR8". An other favorite was a tag from a urologist's car "CME2P".

An old training buddy of mine and I discussed prestige plates many years ago. I commented it would be neat to have an 'Ironman' plate but the state only allowed 6 digits or spaces at that time. Next, I said it would be cool if they allowed lower case letters, so you could use the chemical symbol for iron -FeMan. Well using my idea, he ordered the state allowed 'FEMAN' plate . I laughed every time I saw that plate on his car; thinking people probably thought he was a cross dresser or something. Well the joke is on me. He currently holds the record for the most 'age group wins' in the Ironman Triathlon World Championship! He has done 15 of these races.

https://fernandinaobserver.com/uncategorized/amelias-ironman-king-buchanan-recounts-successful-journey/

Sadly, I just learned of my friends passing this April when Googling this article...RIP Dr. Bruce
Mark
 

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Discussion Starter #902
Congrats, Don -- both the quality and quickness of you getting this car back on the road is quite remarkable!!!
THank you Ruedi.

I’m actually kind of baffled. At this moment there are only a few tiny details to be truly complete. Ashtray, soft top, smooth a few wrinkles in the leather, front license plate bracket, shift lever gaiter.

2018 was spent getting the body done, and overhauling and prepping subassemblies. I began the final assembly in December 2018.

At this moment, roughly seven months later, it does not feel like there has been nearly enough time to assemble an entire car, including the numerous reworks to get things really, really right. I’ve not been putting in ten hour days, so how did I get this far, this quickly?

But, here we are.

On to the remaining tiny details.
 

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Discussion Starter #903
Well, it’s said that if an engine overhaul is going to go wrong, it’ll happen in the first few miles.

Yesterday evening, after changing the oil and tightening the head nuts, we took a quick test drive. Accelerating up the highway entrance ramp it suddenly went flat and wouldn’t rev past 5,000 RPM. Plus, “taptaptaptap”.

Dang.

Limped home. No external distress, and cam lobes look ok. Pressures and temps were ok.

We’ll have the power unit out on Tuesday, and my other ready spare in on Thursday.

Dang.
 

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Might as well put a stethoscope to it..don't you think? Really sorry for the set back. sounds like a stuck valve you might see in the plug hole.. bound up spring ?/ blah blah .. I'd want to go there before I shelved it.
 

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Oh **** !
No wather in oil, no oil in wather ?
Did you yet measure the valve clearance ?
Did you measure the compression into each cylinder ?
 

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Discussion Starter #906
The failure occurred yesterday evening just before sunset. We removed the cam covers, and saw nothing. The engine was warm, so I just called it a day and poured a good glass of Barbera.

I have commitments today, but son will arrive early tomorrow, and we’ll do a few quick checks before committing to pull the engine. He thinks it’s bottom end, but I think it’s top. Either way, it’s so easy to pull the engine and trans, we’ll probably have them on the stand by noon.

Shouldn’t hold me up from making Concorso. Just aggravating.

It idles perfectly without bad sounds. Revving through about 2,000 the tapping starts. It has the classic “rapraprap” of a failed rod bearing, but I’ve got other suspicions.

Watch this space.

First overhaul failure I’ve had since 1989, when a French aircraft engine twisted off a fuel pump drive tang because US gasket paper was .001” thinner than the French metric gasket paper it replaced.
 

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Don, check that the dizzy hasn't shifted before you strip the motor down... It could give you the same symptoms and is far cheaper to check than the alternative

Aye
Greig
 

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Discussion Starter #910
We’ll be looking at everything.

My first thought with your dizzy suggestion was “huh?,”. But, then I thought some more.

It certainly sounds like a whacking-on-metal failure of some sort. Piston pin? Anyway, there was a sudden power loss, and the noise isn’t there until some revs come on. Dizzy timing slip will get a check.
 

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Yup, checking timing & verifying TDC & dizzy firing time costs nuthin' and only takes a few minutes - basics, always back to basics

Decades ago I overhauled the Webers on my student GT 1300 Junior, popped them back on and it wouldn't start...off again, stripped, rebuilt, back on... no start.... off a third time -> what have I done wrong ?? Got gas, got spark....yup got gas & got spark

If you've ever done carbs on a 1300 with the shortest block of the Nords, everything is really close to the inner wing and a bear to work on. Pushed it out the drive, tried a bump start down the road... walked home, fetched Dad & a tow rope... back home he left me to push it up the drive. when I finally got it into the carport he met me at the garage door with a grin and said "does this go anywhere ?" holding the rotor in his hand. Aaaarg, I'd taken it out to give more clearance to my right elbow when wrenching the nuts under the plenum & the manifold & I'd checked the spark by flicking the lead from the coil against it's spade terminal on the dizzy instead of checking at the plugs - too lazy. Popped it back in, touched the key & vroom... lesson learned !!

If the timing is right, the do the plug lead test by pulling alternate leads until the hammering changes - that's the offending cylinder

Holding thumbs that it's a simple fix

Aye
Greig
 

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Quickly draining the oil will tell you if there is anything serious going on in the bottom end. Or even just take the plug out, jamb your thumb in the hole and see if there is stuff on the magnet. Small end bearing, you would have to see if there is any bronze in the drain pan if they have bronze small end bearings.... Hope it's something simple.
 

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If it were my problem I would try to isolate the cylinder by removing the spark and noting any change in the tap.
Old school trick. Just keep the leads loose and when she starts to rattle remove the spark. It should (the noise) change with
out ignition.
RML
 

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Discussion Starter #914
When I drained the oil, which had maybe 10 miles on it, the magnet had a fair amount of fuzz, and the oil was dark. Neither should have happened in 10 miles.

It’ll be an entertaining couple of days.
 

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Discussion Starter #915
Failure

Spun the #4 rod bearing.

I can still clearly see where the machine shop removed the galley plugs and replaced them after rodding.

Although I drove the engine just a few miles, I was noticing the oil pressure being lower than I like, although the temps were right in the middle.

Good news - the pistons and cylinder head are perfect. So... We'll transfer the head to the ready-spare engine, rather than swapping cams, manifold, etc and having to re-shim everything. We will, of course, clean the head in case any of the shavings from the spun bearing made it through the filter and into the rest of the engine.

I mispoke in an earlier post. My last rebuild failure was when the 2300 wiped out two pistons due to the rear carburetor having a leaky float and flooding the rear two cylinders. The carbs were freshly rebuilt from Alfa1750 in Europe, whose sole response was to send me a fresh float.

Anyway...

Fingers crossed that engine #2 won't have anything tragically wrong. Both engines got new everything. In this case, I'm wondering if it was the oil pump, or a bearing shell not up to snuff. The latter is unlikely. I bought bearings for both engines from OKP. Not cheap.
 

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Spun the #4 rod bearing.

I can still clearly see where the machine shop removed the galley plugs and replaced them after rodding.

Although I drove the engine just a few miles, I was noticing the oil pressure being lower than I like, although the temps were right in the middle.
Aw, that sucks! Could the bearing have had too much play (and hence producing not enough oil pressure in that specific bearing) rather than the galley not delivering enough oil?
 

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Discussion Starter #917
At this point, I don’t know why it failed. I measure EVERYTHING when I build an engine, including plastigauge to check for clearances. It’s clear the bearing was spinning in the rod, which can happen if there’s too little lubricant.

I’ll rebuild the engine later. Something will turn up during the teardown and checks.

I am a little concerned about bearing quality. They were sort of hand-wrapped when I got them from OKP. No box, no name.
 

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I once got a new set of rod bearings manufactured with NO locating tang. I caught it before assembly. I always thought that it could have spun in the housing bore had I not caught it.
RML
 

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Discussion Starter #920
The spun bearings at first appeared to have no tangs. However, they are there, just smoothed flat from spinning.

There was plenty of oil on the bearing faces when removed.

I’m taking my mind off of the failure for now, and shifting to backup motor. Maybe get it in and going within two days.
 
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