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Discussion Starter #841 (Edited)
Pete,

The design of a seat belt system takes in a wide range of factors. I won’t go into all of the subject here. Suffice to say that few, if any, seat backs are designed to take the force from a shoulder strap in an accident.

What I believe Jay is requesting is simply a guide to hold a shoulder strap more or less in the right position over the shoulder. If a correct configuration is possible in a 10204, the end of the strap would be afixed slightly above and behind the shoulder. The restraining force would be absorbed by the structure usually called the B-pillar. I would not recommend having the shoulder harness just looping over the shoulder and bolted to the floor.

It is possible a compromise can be found by attaching the strap to the structure just behind and slightly below the shoulder, then held in place by a non-structural loop on top of the seat.
 

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Ah, yes I may have miss understood :)
Pete
 

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Don, I hope to use the belts from the rear seats of a 164 sedan which have a "flat" location for the belt storage, placing them on the spider's rear seat location. I need the edges on the seats so the belts don't get lost somewhere as they go over the seats.
 

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Discussion Starter #844
Got the re-rebuilt wiper motor back. In the end, it had TWO failures inside.

Don’t you hate it when a vendor gives a speech about how they’ve got thirty years of experience, so their work certainly couldn’t be at fault? After getting the motor back, his tone softened considerably.

It’s now reinstalled and works great. I just need to get the glove box reinstalled, and I’ll be back to where I was before the smoke came out of the Lucas motor. We all know that’s the Lucas secret ingredient. If it leaks out, problems start.

Awaiting quote on a production run of seat backs. If you need one or more, this would be a good time to speak up.

Just figured out that the extra holes at the bottom rear of the trunk lid must have been for some sort of Euro license plate holder. This project didn’t come with any identifiable holder I recognized, so I duplicated the USA version on 00072 and took it to the chromer yesterday.

Getting back on track.
 

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Don, did you see that APE just got two 102 parts cars - maybe seats?
 

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Discussion Starter #846

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Discussion Starter #847
Lucas vacuum cleaner. The only thing they made that didn't suck

Got the re-rebuilt wiper motor installed. Before back-filling everything else (glove box, wiper switch, blades, etc), I tested it's operation. Seemed fine. So, I spent the hour or so getting everything closed up.

Then, I ran the wipers WITH the blades. Dang. Slow works fine. Fast, not so much. Youtube attached here.


So, I checked the impedance on the green wire at the fuse box, and it shows a 20 ohm short to ground. Email and video sent to rebuilder in Delaware. It'll be interesting to see how responsive he is tomorrow.

Started car today, and it behaved as though one of the carbs was flooded. It eventually cleared, but looks like I need to check the float/needle-seat operation.

Hope to have a lot of things back on track this week, although the wiper motor gives me a sense of grim foreboding.
 

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Whenever I test windshield wiper motors or wiper blades, I always like to spray some sort of lubricant on the windshield. Usually Windex is the closest spray bottle to the car, so I use it but I suspect water would work as well. Perhaps there is too much resistance on a dry windshield for the wiper motor to make the 'jump' to high speed with a new brushes.

I don't know how it could have a short to ground but you might inspect the wires, wiper switch and the inline fuse that is somewhere under the dash to the left of the steering column.

It is rare that I take an old Alfa out if it even looks like it might rain...I know you want the wipers to work but I hope you never have to use them.

Mark
 

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Discussion Starter #849
Mark,

No fuse on my car, or shown in the schematic.

This motor, before it’s last failure, kicked straight into both speeds with a dry windshield. It’s worth noting that an electric motor creates its greatest torque immediately upon being turned on. It doesn’t “kick into” a speed after starting.

My suspicion is that the high-speed winding is shorting to the case, resulting in less overall torque and the drain-to-ground. It really ruined my mood yesterday.

This morning I’ll go unplug all of the motor leads to isolate it from the switch, and see if the short remains. Always possible it’s the switch.
 

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Discussion Starter #850 (Edited)
Just did the "bench check" supplied by the remanufacturer of the wiper motor. Fail. I just sent my second email letting him know. Fingers crossed.

In the bench check (which was done in the car) I disconnected all of the harness wires from the motor, except the green which carries the B+ power. The guidance from the rebuilder was to jumper the white and blue together. Then, jumper the red and brown together, and the pair to ground. This should give low speed. However, in my case, the motor started up as soon as I jumpered the red and brown, and before connecting to ground. Thus, there is some sort of internal ground being made in the motor. For high speed, I was to jumper Red and Yellow, then to ground. Nothing I could do would get high speed to start.

They're not answering their phones, nor responding to emails. At least not promptly.
 

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Discussion Starter #851
two forward, one back

I got the wiper motor off to the rebuilder again. Third time charm? The bummer is he's one of those old-school guys that pretty much assumes it's always the customer's fault. I don't know how you fabricate a short from B+ in to ground. Fingers crossed he doesn't dig in and refuse to take care of things. I can always get my money back, but where do I get another wiper motor? Larry? Yeah. Larry.

But, on the brighter side...

I picked up the rear seat back and sides yesterday, and we got them in place today. Not too much fiddling. There's no question these were not originally fitted to this car, supporting the custom-interior and original yellow paint. Son came over to supply pressure to get those short little studs to poke through so I could nut them up. With some wiggling, everything finally fell into place. A couple of minor wrinkles, but we'll see how that looks after a few hours in the Nevada sun.

Got the top frame in place. This was one of the first things I cleaned up, powder coated, and hung up for later. Probably a year ago, or slightly more. I've already got the Robbins top, so will get it over to Alex to have that installed before too long.
 

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Discussion Starter #852 (Edited)
,#$&**@,,,%&$##!!!

Making super progress, in the middle of an engine run with the new plenum and air cleaner, when WHAM, generator light comes on and anything powered by the lighting circuit goes off.

After much crawling around under the dash, I’ve isolated it to the fuel level circuit. That’s when I called it a day. The end of the red wire at the gauge looks like it got hot. More work next week when I get back. Headed to Sac for a bridge tournament. 2:45 drive or 38 minute flight.

Here’s pics of new air filter and installation.

I will probably put a larger washer on the bottom of the filter to reduce the chances of losing it. This filter requires no retaining plate for the high-flow-bottom-plate-removal mod.
 

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No fuse on my car, or shown in the schematic.
Don, you are right, I checked two schematics that I have and neither one showed the sort of large (1.5"x 1"x 0.25") black two bladed, slow blow type in-line fuse holder on a green wire behind the dash to the left of the tachometer. It's been well over 20 years but I remember reading about it in one of the "Alpha Plus" newsletters. I went out to the garage and found the fuse they described on 1844. I removed the fuse from the holder, cleaned the contacts and at once had working wipers that I never used again. I'll check 310 for this fuse, not that it is likely causing your short but it might protect your motor from self destruction, if the fuse in the fuse block doesn't already do that.

Nice find on the Baldwin filter! Maybe a Nylock nut on the bottom with the large washer would hold it in place.

Are you using 40 or 45 DCOE's carburetors? If 40 DCOE's, it'll be interesting to see what jets you settle on.

Mark
 

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Hello Don,

This filter is just perfect without no retaining plate.
I agree, a bigger washer will be better.
 

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BTW Don, any English car I've ever owned with assumed Lucas powered (lol) wipers would never generate enough torque to be tested on a dry windscreen. You are asking for clouds of that unique Lucas smoke to start billowing IMO. Heck I had to stop my Mini once in a typical New Zealand shower because the wipers could not do the job, and I was in my early 20's so fill of bravado and stupidity, and my eyesight is good.

While I admire (seriously) your restorations, if the wiper motor is hidden or can have modern NON-Lucas internals (thinking Toyota based) stealthy installed inside, that is what I would do. If not the power wire too the motor needs to have a fuse added so the Lucas devil does not keep melting it.
Pete
 

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Hi Don,

Not a fuse for the wiper motor but perhaps a switch?
The 102 parts catalog from 1960 shows a thermic switch ( Alfa nr 1495.80.707) for the Lucas wiper. It is the same switch as for the Giuliettas and 2600 Alfas that had the Lucas wiper motor.
You're correct, it is not on the 102 wiring diagrams, so maybe early cars didn't have the switch, the 12 V came then directly from the fuse box. Alfa probably added the switch later but didn’t make a new wire diagram for the instruction books. ( just my opinion)
First picture is from the 102 catalog 1495.80.707 explained as being a ‘thermal switch’.
Second picture shows the definition of 1495.80.707 in a Giulietta catalog .

Thierry
 

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Discussion Starter #857
The 2000 wiper motor has a built in thermal switch. The rebuilder, who’s every note describes his length of experience, told me he disabled the thermal switch in his rebuilds because they cause problems.

I won’t be boring holes in the dash for switches that don’t belong there. I’ll eventually get it right, possibly with a different rebuilder.
 

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Discussion Starter #858
A quickie...

Got the surprise short in the fuel gauge sorted. I don't know what I did. Took it all apart (not the gauge itself) and put it all back together, and now it works fine. It was blowing the instrument light fuse, which also shuts down the generator. Fingers crossed it was just a loose wire finger somewhere making an intermittent, and self-destroying short.

Wiper motor should arrive, again, today. Rebuilder no longer making aggressive comments. I described my diagnosis to him and he went quiet. Due to deleting the thermal breaker in the motor, I had zero protection against a short. The first rebuild he provided had a pinched wire inside, creating a short that drained my battery, and heated up the guts of the motor for the two days it took to drain the battery. This heat did damage to the internal windings, so although he repaired the pinched wire, the windings were now not only cooked, they were making a short to the motor case. Apparently, he never checks for a short to the case, and expressed surprise that Alfa runs these motor via unswitched AND unfused power. I think I'm lucky my car didn't burn down.

Paid a visit to Larry and picked up a few bits I might need someday, including another wiper motor. Apparently I don't get a discount over there, but I'm far happier that his business thrives than I get a few points shaved. I also picked up a couple of seat pans, so when I finish the seat back frames I'll have at least one complete, and restored, set of seats for a 102, plus a pair of seat backs for Jay that have the shoulder harness guide option built into them. I can still increase the build quantity for new seat backs if you speak up quickly.

Got the freshly chromed and rebuilt shift lever from Larry, and installed it. Now that's all buttoned up, except I don't like the carpet piece from WULPH, so will have someone make a custom piece that fits better.

Engine still runs well, but needs to be fully warm to be happy during initial acceleration. The 2300 is happy from start up, so I may investigate enrichening the idle jets a step and see what happens.

Having problems with upholsterer, so will be meeting with a back up on Thursday. As Hot August Nights is rapidly approaching, they're all maxed out. I like Johnny, but I'm not very happy with him right now. I've already got a date booked with Alex, who did the top on 00072, for three weeks from now. I may end up having to redo some, or much, of the rear surround. Some wrinkles that may or may not come out in the sun. Plus, some rough edge finishing on the top bolster. I still think I'll make it to Concorso, but will have some rework before I can offer it to the next custodian.

Planning on taking the car back to Kelly on Friday for the final exterior touch up.
 

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Discussion Starter #859
A very good day, yesterday.

Picked up freshly powder coated seat back frame, and took the whole pile to Terry, at Classic Restorations. At this point, it feels like I’ve met a new best friend. There’s a possibility that he’s the guy that actually did the interior on 00072, as a subcontractor to BT that I hired to do the work. I saw his work, and have a sense of confidence in both his timeliness and quality.

Meanwhile, I stopped by Johnny’s, and he’s got the door cards and upper bolster done, except for the welting. I expect to pick them up today.

Wiper motor bench tested, and re-re-re-installed. Working fine. I picked up a 15 amp circuit breaker to protect that circuit. It’ll be hidden under the dash. Also, motor rebuilder, in a moment of humility, has agreed to rebuild for free a wiper motor core that I picked up at Larry’s. I countered that all I want is a discount for my freight costs and hassle. He’ll include the internal thermal breaker on this rebuild.

Car going back to Kelly today for final paint detailing.

Home stretch....
 
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