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Discussion Starter #661
All these exchanges are a little complicated to follow for me who have an imperfect English.

What I can tell :
Bleeding the brakes is a real mess, we can all testify.
I bought this: https://www.amazon.fr/Gunson-77021-Système-professionnel-liquide/dp/B002WD5XOQ
It works very well. And as soon as someone has trouble bleeding (the clutch is sometimes worse, I have a long story on the 2600 one) I come to the rescue with this tool. It has always made the unhappy man smile.
If you don't have it, remember :
You can replace the bleeders thread sealant by copper grease

Do not give up, Don, we're all behind you!

As I’ve commented before, I’ve put together several sets of 102 brakes. Bleeding to perfection has always been a 30 minute job. The difference here is the “auto adjusting” brakes. My “feel” on this is that the stroke distance of at least one wheel is too much.

The two fronts and right rear go from freewheeling to locked in the last click of the adjusters, at which point the adjusters will absolutely turn no more. The left rear gradually goes into lockup over several turns, and several additional turns can be taken after lockup.

This, of course, suggests very bad shoe-face alignment. I reckon I’ll start there today, for the 4th time. Gotta be missing something....
 

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Only the Franciscan nuns knew how to pronounce my name correctly. My own family uses 3 different pronunciations. I use the pigeon version ...1/2 and 1/2 .. Polish and English grammatical... I second your whining on brakes.. There isn't one time when more than one "muther tucker" echos through my garage when working on them..... It does help the process and my wife understands.
 

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Discussion Starter #664 (Edited)
In truth, World History/Geography class during my school years was fairly US-centric. Still is, I’m afraid. We had a full year of Texas history, which makes sense when we consider that Texas is bigger than France, and offers a model of free-range individualism and BS-as-art form to the world.

After further consideration, I shifted gears and decided to go back to using the display engine instead of the late-serial crate engine. Several reasons eventually won the argument over the difficulty of the move, which in the end, turned out not to be all that hard.

Meanwhile, latest brake master cylinder is working, but has leaks from a couple of joints. It’ll be coming back out to find out why. Probably a bad copper seal on a banjo bolt. May also have to fabricate a new feed line.

Bleeding and repetitive adjustments have produced some firm pedal, but still too low. The right rear brake was not showing a moving forward/lower shoe. I devised the suspicion that the “auto-adjustment nut” may have been at the one position that would prevent that shoe from expanding. So, after a slight adjustment to a more expanded preset, I was able to confirm both shoes were responding to brake pressure. Current plan is to fix master cylinder leak, rebleed, and move on. Once the car can be driven, I’ll drive around block a few times, exercising the brakes, then reset the initial adjustment, hoping the clearances have settled in, and a higher pedal can be found. I wish we could find an authoratative discussion of service for these later brakes.

The old guy in one of the pictures is my neighbor, “Dolph”. He stopped by to give me a 2019 Porsche calendar. Back in the 60s - 70s he had a top Porsche shop in California, and supported some Porsche factory race teams. At one point, Datsun gave him a contract to prepare and support some 240Z-260Z SCCA race cars, at least one of which won the national championship at Road Atlanta. His son is a current Porsche tech, certified to work on the 918.
 

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Discussion Starter #666
I’m not in the pictures. Blue sweater is my son.

We are now preparing the engine and transmission that were in the display case. It is the one on the low dolly, not the one on the taller stand. This engine serial number dates to 1960, the same year as the car. Although both of my spare engines were completely rebuilt with all new everything, the display-1960 received the most care cosmetically. For instance, it has an original oil filter system, where my other “box” engine has the Myron spin-on modification. I briefly decided to use the non-display engine, as I believed the move from my house to the shop would be too hard. It turned out to be fairly easy, so the “box” engine will become my new “display” engine.

The display trans is all ready to go, as well. Larry jr rebuilt it for me a few years ago, so using this pair saves me much time. If I can get the corrected cams back from Webcam.

AFRA has responded that they have the clutch bolts, but I’ve sent a picture asking them to confirm. The display engine has two of the bolts already, so I need only one more to assemble the power unit. Can anyone spare or loan me one, pending receipt from AFRA?

Yesterday I fixed the leak from the master cylinder. The fluid-feed brass fitting had some damaged threads. I’ve still got a functional, but low pedal. I’m confident this is related to adjustment rather than bleeding, so will get back to it later.

By the way, I was playing the gold guitar, a 1954 Gibson ES295, during the dress rehearsal for “Jacques Brel is alive and well, living in Paris” at the moment my son was born, 46 years ago.
 

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Discussion Starter #668
Do you still need that one bolt?
At this point, I will say no. However, in spite of AFRA sending a picture of the correct bolt, I have found they have a remarkable ability to mess things up. We’ll see how they look in a week or ten when they arrive.

Did you decide if you’d like the E-brake handle?
 

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I do understand. About the handbrake, I was going to post this separately, but my handbrake assembly returned from the other dimension the other day. It appeared sticking out of my small box for ignition parts. I saw the box earlier one day, 10 minutes latter there it was in plain sight. It was NOT there before when looking for it. Those gremlins are such a gas!
 

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Discussion Starter #670
Good day yesterday, in spite of a very mild cold, caught from the portable plague known as my grandson. I’d rate it as a 1 on the 1-10 cold scale. I’d give it a 2, but I’m administering large doses of vitamin D-Niall. You can tell your wives that having a project Alfa promotes health, and reduces your native tendencies to lay about whimpering for attention when you’re sick.

I finished the door cards, ensuring fit on both doors with concentricity of the handle openings, then hauled the whole pile of interior stuff down to Johnny, my local upholsterer. I love him. Speaks enough English that we can communicate, does great work, and charges so little I always increase the payment. He’s the fellow that did the Full Monty interior. When I told him I had another project, he replied that he no longer did cars, preferring the larger, and vastly more profitable, casino work. “But, for you, my regular customer, okay”.

He’ll be doing the doors and rear surround, plus a couple of minor details. Said he’d get it done in a few weeks. Yeah. Right.

Got the pics off to Stuart at Keys For Classics, so should have fully operational locks soon. Interestingly, the glove box locks and unlocks with an uncut key blank. I’ve got a spare lockable door button, but I kind of like the concept of a lockable driver’s door, and unlockable passenger door, in a car with a fabric top that will very rarely be raised.

Webcam claims to have shipped cams back yesterday, and Art Brass promises they’ve shipped my bumpers and polished upper side spears.

For those of you considering the 45/590 cams from Webcam... in spite of asking me to send them a cylinder head to ensure fit during the original order nearly a year ago, they now clarify that they don’t do cam-fit testing. Hmmmm. Thus, although they didn’t charge me to rework the cams, it cost me about $250 in freight.

Don’t take this as a condemnation of Webcam. I like them. Just be advised of the need for written specificity if you’re the prototyping customer. After I double check the fit, I’ll publish the details so you can just order the cams without too much concern.
 

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Great !

lockable driver’s door, and unlockable passenger door
I'm not sure of the translation of "unlockable" : The passenger door can be locked by the inside.

Whatsoever, I agree with you. And each time I park the car on a public place without roof (the soft top if not yet in place and the hard top is not painted either), I lock the car with a large smile on my face : useless but so pleasant.
 

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Discussion Starter #672 (Edited)
Closer I step, inch by inch..

Swapped engines between box-dolly and engine stand. Mounted OKP manifold to the 1960 engine, and bolted up the 40DCOEs to begin fabrication of the support rod. Won’t take too long.

Transferred rear oil pan reinforcing strap to the 1960 engine.

Happy accident department...

Ten years ago I made a new spare tire cover out of 1/4” plywood. After cutting it out, I grabbed a can of white primer and brushed it on.

The next day I checked to be sure it was dry so I could paint it black. That’s when I discovered I hadn’t used primer, I’d grabbed a can of white contact cement. Weeks later it was still quite tacky, so I started over with a new piece of wood.

The tire tub panel that came with 1488 is in good shape, but thicker than 1/4”, so creates a noticeable bulge under the mat. Today, I remembered stashing the tacky cover somewhere, found it, discovered it was no longer tacky, and that it fit perfectly.

Flat black sprayed. Problem solved.

Outer window fuzzy seal arrived yesterday. I expect cams Monday or Tuesday, and bumpers and upper side trim later in the week.
 

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Today, I remembered stashing the tacky cover somewhere, found it, discovered it was no longer tacky, and that it fit perfectly.

Flat black sprayed. Problem solved.
Good for you!!! This seems to be related to the microscopic black holes that makes stuff disappear and reappear at times. Maybe there are worm holes through space and time where we encounter struggles only to pass solutions (or stuff) to future versions of ourselves? Could that be what happened to your airplane keys?
 

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Discussion Starter #675
I am still baffled by the airplane keys. My hunch is that they fell out my pocket at the airport, and someone picked them up. I need to check with the airport manager.

Of course, one of aviation’s dirty little secrets is that there are only about three different keys out there, and one of them will probably work in the ignition of every small airplane. My 55 year old airplane has enough wear and tear that I could probably get any key to work, with enough wiggling.

Still, it’s quite unusual for me to lose a bright blue keychain with four or five keys on it.
 

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I don't know if this is redundant info or not, but going through a 1964 Glen's Foreign Car repair manual, I came across a couple of mentions of the auto adjusting brakes...
 

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Discussion Starter #677 (Edited)
Dang. I used to have that book. No idea where it would be now, but I’m gonna look.

However, the functional description is what I imagined. Except, I think it probably takes rotational loading to shift the auto-adjust “nuts”, rather than just hydraulic pressure.
 

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Discussion Starter #678
One of those days that I just put my head down and beavered away.

A friend recently scolded me for using the term “beavering”, suggesting it had coarse, high-schoolish connotations.

Pi$$ off, @unt.

Random completions...

Trunk prop rod. Now high-tensile steel rather than stainless. Looks grand, works perfectly. Led me to wonder if I could find someone to fabricate true, fitted luggage for this car. Wouldn’t be original, of course, but let’s see a show of hands. I’d like to open the boot and see interesting curved and contoured bags filling all of the available space.

Both outer fuzzy door glass seals in place.

Support rod for OKP/Webers fabricated. Next stop, powder coater.

Fuel tank pinholes brazed. Some worked, some need a rework. It’s an iterative process.

Oxygen regulator died. Not bad for 20 years.

New German throwout bearing bearing installed. What a nuisance! It replaced a new, American-made Studebaker bearing recommended by Jay. They look identical, but the American bearing had a slight roughness at one spot, likely the result of 60 years on a shelf somewhere. It probably would have been fine, but I like to sleep well. If anyone wants a new, probably good throwout for a 102, a bottle of something good will do it.

And that’s the end of our broadcasting day....
 

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Discussion Starter #679
My son came over and helped me get the new 45/590 cams set up. He’s a highly credentialed motorcycle mechanic, so this was right up his line. The Webcam spec was .010” for intake and .012” for exhaust. The intake took several iterations, but we brought the exhaust in with only three cam removals. Today I should get the cam end-plug and diz drive gear installed, timing set, and buttoned up. I wouldn’t rule out dropping the engine/trans into the car today or tomorrow. I’ve still got to install the Pertronix, prep the plenum, and get the carb support powder coated, so probably a week to first start.

I’m trying to decide between Dentax or RL NS for the trans. I’ve got a couple of gallons of Dentax on hand, but am inclined to save that for 00072. I’ve got RL GL5 for the dif.

It’s time to put in the front springs. I need to paint the freshly repaired fuel tank (pinholes), and need to push out the car for that. Or.... wait for warmer weather to paint the tank outside. That’s probably a better idea.

The list grows shorter.
 

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Discussion Starter #680 (Edited)
Solo install. 30 minutes. Not counting 3 hours of prep.
 

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