Alfa Romeo Forums banner

581 - 600 of 1045 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,881 Posts
I'm confused :)

Pete
Here you go.

As you can see in the parts book. There is one bumper pad for the Roadster and one for the sedan. The Roadster uses the 1356.48.036 same one as the 750/101 according to the parts book. The other 102.00.25.050.00 is for the sedan.

Apparently Alfa made a change somewhere along the line during production or the parts book is wrong. As Don's car uses the sedan ones on his roadster.
 

Attachments

·
Push hard and live
Joined
·
8,932 Posts
Discussion Starter #582
Jim,

I’ve owned now three 102 Roadsters. All used the same buffer, identical to the ones on my car.

I haven’t dug deeply into this, but from what I’m seeing now, some people believe the buffer has a curved base. Cicognani lists this one for the 102. All of mine had a flat base, with slightly curved ends of the base plate. The early 750-101 buffers have a flat base, but at least current stock does not have the curved ends of the base plate.

I’m guessing the curved ends were to prevent cutting into the straps when the axle was left hanging. Sometime later, maybe an engineer decided this was a rare case, and they could save .05 by leaving the plate fully flat.
 

·
Push hard and live
Joined
·
8,932 Posts
Discussion Starter #583
I’m still living in the world of vendor-goofs. I won’t list them here, but even the good guys are getting it wrong.

I got the rear suspension all installed, including the new Konis, except for the buffers and straps. CA originally shipped the wrong straps, and their offer to send over the correct ones this past Monday just didn’t happen. I’m told they left today.

I’m redoing the windshield. I didn’t like the way it was going. Long story. I’ll post a recap of “how to install the windshield” in its own thread. Assuming it goes as planned.

Anyone know the recommended torque for the 12MM nuts installed on the shortened lugs and retaining the drums in front, and the drums and spiders in the rear? I looked in their documentation and didn’t see it.
 

·
Push hard and live
Joined
·
8,932 Posts
Discussion Starter #584
Lots of small steps, but no recent, worthy pics.

I installed the freshly painted brake fluid reservoir, and filled it up. Everything looked good, so off I went for errands. Upon my return, the floor around the left front wheel was pretty wet. Turns out, I'd left out the bleed screws on both front wheels. Fitted those, and refilled. A couple of hours later, wet on the floor under the differential. Turns out I hadn't pulled up the two transverse pipes going from the Tee fitting to the wheels. I'd pulled up the feed pipe, but must have decided to wait until that was done to finish the side pipes. The system is now holding fine. I'm happy the leaks were self-inflicted, and none under the master cylinders. I need to adjust the static clearances on the drums before bothering to bleed and check the adjustment on the E-brake. The left rear is so loose that pulling on the e-brake handle causes the bar on the wheel cylinder to pull all the way back and lock into position. That won't work.

Main fuel line and fuel filter assembly in place.

I'm pondering the fuel tank for whether I need to open it up and do some sort of interior seal or not. It actually looks pretty good by shining a light into it. I'll attempt to pressurize it and use some soapy water over the weekend.

We're going to attempt a third setting of the windshield this weekend. I haven't like what we got so far, and have a different strategy I want to try.

I may have mentioned this, but I found a spare glove box lock that I'd traded for years ago, and robbed the tumblers out of it. My trunk lock is now complete and installed, although I need to work with Keys for Classics to get some keys cut for it, and the door and glove box locks.

Order of replacement, and hopefully correct, parts arrives tomorrow from CA. Should be able to finish up the front and rear suspension installs. I may wait on the front springs, rather than leave the rubber bumpers loaded for the weeks or month it takes to get the engine, trans, and driveline in place. It's easy enough to pop in the front springs anytime.

I checked, and my steering box still has the full load of oil I put into it when I overhauled it a year or two ago. That's a good thing.

I've pulled the engine from my small box, rather than my display cabinet, for use. Neither is original to the car, so I decided why add a couple of days of serious work, and possible injury to me and the display box? The only thing we'll need from the display box are the two Gordon Raymond overhauled 40's for use on the OKP manifold.

Need..... a....... nap.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,241 Posts
I'm pondering the fuel tank for whether I need to open it up and do some sort of interior seal or not. It actually looks pretty good by shining a light into it. I'll attempt to pressurize it and use some soapy water over the weekend.
Depending on the results, you may want to consider a Bill Hirsch fuel tank repair kit, which also protects the inside of the tank from future ethanol additives corrosion.
 

·
Push hard and live
Joined
·
8,932 Posts
Discussion Starter #586
I’ve purchased two tanks worth of Caswell tank sealer. I did a bunch of research, and the two-part Caswell came out on top of all non-activated types. I’m pretty sure the tank for 00072 will need sealing. Not so sure 1408 will need it.
 

·
Push hard and live
Joined
·
8,932 Posts
Discussion Starter #587
At last! The windscreen is permanently in place. Tried several approaches, looking for all the wrong methods. Main problem was getting the trim strip to pull all the way down into the groove in the rubber. Finally got it to work. Now I can move forward.

We pulled the engine out, and have it mounted up in the stand. Cam covers off to install the vastly improved cams from Webcam. Haven’t decided yet whether to supply the engine with the currently installed spin-on conversion, or the original canister system. Hard to know if the spin on helps or hurts the value. Might leave it on, but include a fully restored canister kit in a box.

I’m out of town through Wednesday, but will be back on the job Thursday evening. Should have the engine and trans in place in a week, or two at the most.
 

·
Push hard and live
Joined
·
8,932 Posts
Discussion Starter #588 (Edited)
Work gets in the way

I've gone back to work. I like it mostly, but we'll see if it turns out to be profitable. It has started out pretty neat.

After about two weeks of WORK, I got back on the car. Son came over and we attempted to install the redone cams from Webcam. No go. I like them, and I'm confident they'll work things out, but simply putting the new 45/590 lobes onto the existing base circle WILL NOT WORK. They said they tested them, but clearly they did not. Again - nice folks so we'll sort it out. My guess is that narrowing the lobes to make them clear the tappet-bore sides will fix things.

Got all the trunk rubber in place. Just need to install the sealing rubber, the trunk lid, and the fuel filler cover, and it's done. Yes, the fuel tank and sender have to be installed, but those are not literally "the trunk". Well, I need to make a unique spare tire cover, as things don't work out the same with Borannis as with the steel wheels. Might end up with a slight hump back there, but not much.

Rear suspension done. I pushed on a wheel and tire just to have something to grin about. Need to finish torquing the flange nuts before buttoning up the wheels.

Front Konis installed. Only springs need to be put in place for the front suspension and steering to be finished, and I'll wait until just before dropping the car onto the floor before putting in the springs. Yes, steering needs full alignment.

New wiper arms and wipers, check. Next will be the interior rear view mirror. I originally planned to not install outside rear view mirrors, but I bought four of the "Talbot" trapezoidal-with-rounded-corners mentioned in a post elsewhere. I have my doubts that, at $38 each, they are genuine Talbots, but we'll see how they look. I like the shape a lot.

Got the under-dash levers back from the chromer, as well as the front fog/turn light reflectors. All that should come together over the next 10 days. That will officially wrap up the dash, wiring, all controls, lighting, etc, and leave only the doors, windows, a few carpet bits, convertible top stuff, and engine and driveline to get in place. Plus, whatever I'm forgetting, of course.
 

Attachments

·
Push hard and live
Joined
·
8,932 Posts
Discussion Starter #590
I have a tool box I made for my other car. I intend to make another for this car.

I wont pay $5,000 for an original box in poor condition full of tools I would never use.

We all have our line in the sand on something.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
199 Posts
Your car is looking amazing! Wasn't too keen on the colour at first, but now it's all coming together I think you got it spot on. Love the Borranis expensive but well worth it. I think yours might be one of the best 2000 spiders out there when it's finished. 🙂
 

·
Push hard and live
Joined
·
8,932 Posts
Discussion Starter #592
Your car is looking amazing! Wasn't too keen on the colour at first, but now it's all coming together I think you got it spot on. Love the Borranis expensive but well worth it. I think yours might be one of the best 2000 spiders out there when it's finished. 🙂
That's the hope.

It'll help the "show" value that I won't be tempted to drive it much beyond tuning and sorting.

I'm still enjoying the very much non-beaten-up nature of the car. Bolts and bolt holes are clean and usable. The only intrusive mod were the driving lights, and we've disappeared those. Might have been cool to keep them, but....

I got the E-brake installed, adjusted and working great. Need to tighten the lock nuts on cables. Of course, some of that will change once I've bled the hydraulics and find if I need to further adjust the pre-set on the brake shoes.
 

·
Push hard and live
Joined
·
8,932 Posts
Discussion Starter #593
Beatthe spread

I had NE by 2 1/2 for $100. Woop woop. However, I won only four of thirteen games in the post season, for a net loss. Oh well.

Note to the world...

You might want to leave the second-gen inside mirror base in place while the dash is painted, or, if you wish to powder coat it, put it into position before installing anything else in the instrument binnacle.

I used to have a 30mm socket, but I can’t find it, so have to get one before I can tighten the mirror base.

New electric fuel pump installed, along with two new flexible hoses. Long copper fuel line fully clamped in place.

All trunk rubber mats tucked, tweaked, glued, and screwed in place. Trunk lid seal and rear polished stainless trim done.

New battery, cover, and rubber base in place. I’ll now fabricate the hold-down frame, and get it powder coated.

Put rear wheels in place, after torquing retaining nuts to 60#. Knock off spinners tapped up to snugness. How does one know the right amount of whacking on the ears?

Webcam cams repacked for return for rework. I’ll post a full report on this FU once all the details are in.

OKP manifold and new isolators installed. Most engine prep has been handed off to my son, a superior motorcycle tech, but the 12”+ snow kept him away for the last couple of days.

Next will be the assembly of the fog/turn signal assemblies.

Speaking of those, I’ve got a stock of the correct yellow bulbs for the fog lights, but to be fair, they’re useless. Anyone know of a halogen or LED replacement bulb?

I’ve also got all of my cable-making gear pulled out to complete all of the lever stuff.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,313 Posts
Hello Don,

It's progressing well, bravo.

You engine is wonderful. Is the oil carter always body color painted ?

Concerning the cams, how is it that you discover this problem and you did not have it on the 2300 bloc ?

Could you please post detail pictures of the trunk rubber mat screws (I would like to see where the screws are) and of the battery cover and fixation ?
 

·
Push hard and live
Joined
·
8,932 Posts
Discussion Starter #595
Hello Don,

It's progressing well, bravo.

You engine is wonderful. Is the oil carter always body color painted ?

Concerning the cams, how is it that you discover this problem and you did not have it on the 2300 bloc ?

Could you please post detail pictures of the trunk rubber mat screws (I would like to see where the screws are) and of the battery cover and fixation ?


I DID have a big problem with the cams on the 2300, but it was a different set of problems. To avoid repeating those problems, I sent a complete head to Webcam for them to ensure the fit before making the cams. I have my suspicions for what went wrong, because they clearly cannot rotate in the head, but I'll leave that report until later.

What is an "oil carter"?

Pics will have to wait. From this moment until midday Friday I'm running full speed in other directions.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
152 Posts
I Googled the term "oil carter" and it seems to have some Mexican connotations. We all know that there are different names for the various parts of an automobile depending on where you live in the world. Another Trivia question for slow evenings.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,660 Posts
I looked and looked at the photo of the engine for something body colour and didn't even see the oil pan ... sigh

Pete
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,241 Posts
In French, the oil pan and/or oil sump are commonly referred to as "carter" (the full name is actually "la cuvette-carter"). This may be one of the instances where a brand name became the synonym for a type of item, similar to "Kleenex" having become a common term for "tissue paper".

A quick Internet search produced a French Wikipedia page that indicated "carter" was named after J. Harrison Carter, who supposedly invented a protective enclosure of mechanical parts that needed lubrication. A page on British Industrial History the revealed a "J. Harrison Carter, of Mark Lane, London, and Dunstable, milling engineer and manufacturer of chain lubricator." and shows some ads from 1880 to 1946, but mainly for "disintegrators." These ads, and a quick patent search, revealed that this company was mainly involved with grinding, sifting and separation of materials. So I have a hunch that the protective enclosure mentioned above was a two-way barrier (to not let oil contaminate its environment, or let whatever is being processed get into the oil), as well as a protective safety device in case a chain or other mechanical parts disintegrate (break or explode).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,241 Posts
As for the oil pan color, I'd say it was never pained in body color at the factory, as the engines were assembled and run in tests before they were installed in a car. Changing the oil pan -- which typically is not seen by a buyer -- to body color after test runs (to me) makes no economic sense in production.
 
581 - 600 of 1045 Posts
Top