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Discussion Starter #521
Don

Santa is not done with you yet. The pride of Texas is coming your way....
I take the pride of Texas with me wherever I go. If my shadow falls on it, that’s Texas.

But, you have good taste and a willing spirit. All trubutes are appreciated.
 

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I used one relay per high and low. An H4 pulls about 6 amps on high beam, and about 5.5 on low. I bought a bunch of Bosch 30 amp relays several years ago, along with matching sockets that I forgot to use. Anyway, that’s a 150% overhead on the load, so using one for high and another for low seems adequate.
Hello Don,

My concern was not about the ability of the relay to accept the current.
The problem with your system is that if a relay fails (for whatever reason), you will suddenly find yourself into the dark.

From my point of view, it is better to put a relay by side, after the fuse box.
In this case, you need 4 relays.
If there is a failure, there will remain at least one side that illuminates.

It is also this logic that makes that there is a fuse per side.

(I hope my explanations are understandable)

Serge
 

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Discussion Starter #523 (Edited)
I used one relay per high and low. An H4 pulls about 6 amps on high beam, and about 5.5 on low. I bought a bunch of Bosch 30 amp relays several years ago, along with matching sockets that I forgot to use. Anyway, that’s a 150% overhead on the load, so using one for high and another for low seems adequate.


Hello Don,

My concern was not about the ability of the relay to accept the current.
The problem with your system is that if a relay fails (for whatever reason), you will suddenly find yourself into the dark.

From my point of view, it is better to put a relay by side, after the fuse box.
In this case, you need 4 relays.
If there is a failure, there will remain at least one side that illuminates.

It is also this logic that makes that there is a fuse per side.

(I hope my explanations are understandable)

Serge

Very reasonable thinking. Of course, the same would be the case if the switch contacts fried. At least with two relays (protecting the switch) if a relay dies I could switch to the alternate that is still working.

This morning, I was considering wiring the turn signal circuitry differently. I have found that most flashers are now electronic, prussmbly due to the rapid adoption of LED bulbs. Anyway, the 102 blinker circuit is always "hot". It is possible to trigger the signals without the key turned on. The flasher unit I bought senses a long power-on condition, assumes someone has forgotten to turn off the car, and turns on the turn signal indicator light into a steady red condition. It is easily reset, but an example of the growing incompatibility between the old analog and new digital world.

I decided I really don't want to do a significant mod on the wiring. I'll just locate a good old analog blinker.
 

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Discussion Starter #525
3:00 am wake up call

Gotta get up early for a run to the airport.

Lotta problems mounting the Classic Alfa taillight lenses. Broke the mounting stud on one. I’ll report on that later.

Anyone else get the impression of cherries and cream?

Shine on harvest moon.
 

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It is very nice Don,

How do you succeed to install the front door rubber ?

9FD555A6-E27C-471B-828D-553941B71FD2.jpg

Did you use some glue or it is just stuck between the bodywork and the small sheet of metal behind?
 

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Discussion Starter #528 (Edited)
It is just stuck in the gap at present. I have found that it needs to sit in exactly the right position for awhile to relax into a smooth arc. After a day or two, I may slightly adjust it. Once it has settled in, I’ll take some Loctite 404 and a hypodermic needle, and put a few drops up into the groove to cement things in place.
 

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Discussion Starter #530
I’m pretty sure I’m going to need to buy more of the nuts. Do you know a source?
 

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Discussion Starter #531 (Edited)
Misfit parts, and missing holes

I still like my body guy, but he seems to have been expert at filling holes that were intended to remain open. Filling one on the lower nose for an aftermarket driving light might seem understandable, but leaving its mate open, 30" away? He left open the right side holes for the trim strip above the "gills". Left? Nope. These are solvable with no lost ground. I just ask him to come find the holes, and open them up. We're still friends. He has a cute wife he doesn't deserve.

WULPH has, so far, been brilliant. The carpet for this car is the identical Italian wool I found in the car upon tear-down. Identical. I've bought a 2000 carpet kit from them before. This time (and maybe the first time), they created holes for the high/low beam switch and washer pump you'd have trouble putting your middle finger into. Maybe a good standard for your high school girlfriend, but an unacceptable deterrent here. Mars, and WULPH, will take care of this. I'll let you know if their standard changes. At this point, the best choice for interior stuff.

Meanwhile, I dropped in the various carpet pieces. I'm guessing the seamstress (seamster?) that did my job grabbed a 2600 pattern when they did the rear floor pieces. No way they're going to fit. I don't doubt WULPH will take care of it, as their service standard is A+. BUT, do they have enough of the original Italian Wool, from the same DYE batch? A slightly different shade of pale won't get it. Again, maybe with your high school sweetheart. And Procol Harem. What does "Procol" mean?

I've been test fitting the doors. The left originally looked awful. Then, I discovered Kelly had installed only 4 screws into the door-hinge. OK. I straightened that out, plus biased the hinge on the door for top outward /bottom inward . This was to rotate the trailing lower corner inward. After reinstallation, it still looked weird, but when I pushed in on it against the new door seals, it all sucked up with nice gaps and conformity. YAY! The regular drives to Kelly's to explain "gaps" has paid off.

I've started making new glove box innards. The original turns out to be a piece of carboard slit with a razor at the ends to create a fold. Italian engineering at its finest. But, ya' gotta give them credit. Mostly, the glove boxes have demonstrated greater longevity than their structural sills.

Anyway, I've chosen 1/8" masonite for the box body. After tracing the original cardboard, and cutting the masonite, I've put it into position, taped it into shape, and laid over a layer of fiberglass at the corners. Considering the corners were originally just the outer layer of unslit PAPER, this will be a reasonable compromise against pure originality. It won't be seen unless you go looking for it.

But, the piece d'resistance....

I drove down to Joann Fabric looking for the correct thin, untextured, black vinyl. I found an excellent replacement, and 1 yard cost me $11. Have you noticed that women have inexpensive habits compared to ours? Except when when we're dropping the card on the table?

On the way home, I remembered that I had substantial remnants of the black and orange Alcantara from the "Full Monty" project. May I see a show of hands? I'm not sure myself. Moderation has never been my strong suit. Fast women and slow horses, etc.

Not sure I'll reveal my choice just yet, regardless. Do please express your opinions on vinyl, black Alcantera, or orange Alcantera for the glove box interior. I also have stock of the Montreal textured vinyl, but with the other choices, that seems a distant fourth.
 

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Discussion Starter #533
The piece is a “sling” that supports the convertible top when it is stowed. It is standard on the Alfa 2000 Touring roadsters. I do not know about 2600, but assume it is used there as well.

I will take more pictures today.
 

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The piece is a “sling” that supports the convertible top when it is stowed. It is standard on the Alfa 2000 Touring roadsters. I do not know about 2600, but assume it is used there as well.

I will take more pictures today.
There is no such sling on 106 cars, as there is no horizontal frame for a sling to attach to. The folded convertible top is hidden behind a very lightly padded vinyl cover and becomes part of the seat back of the rear seats. I presume this was changed to provide more space on the rear seats -- and make sitting there more comfortable, if such a term could be used for sitting on the rear seats.
 

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Discussion Starter #535
sling

There is no such sling on 106 cars, as there is no horizontal frame for a sling to attach to. The folded convertible top is hidden behind a very lightly padded vinyl cover and becomes part of the seat back of the rear seats. I presume this was changed to provide more space on the rear seats -- and make sitting there more comfortable, if such a term could be used for sitting on the rear seats.
Ruedi,

You raise a good point. I've never played with the 2600s, having turned down the purchase of one in Richmond, VA with a frozen engine and rust making a pitter-patter noise on the garage floor where it was stored.

But, I don't recall if Serge has one of the very late 2000s, in which the rear "hoop" was deleted as the production was shifting to the soon-to-come 2600. If so, then he wouldn't have a place to hang the sling.
 

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Discussion Starter #537
Orange Alcantara

Just kidding. The original glove box vinyl appears to more of a matte-finish, woven fabric. Nothing I found, or already had, was a good match. So, black Alcantara. It’s quite nice, I think. I only had a small amount left over, and nearly screwed up. My first cut-out was a mirror of what it needed to be. Fortunately, I had enough for one more cut-out.

The taillight lenses from CA have been a challenge. Several issues, typical of reproductions. They’re attractive, and the orange turn signal fits the Euro delivery and use in the car’s early years.

The main problem is that the upper divider plate is not quite positioned correctly, so you cannot align the three mounting points (one stud and two, unfinished holed tabs) without the lens and housing divider tabs interfering. On the first lens I attempted to install in the housing, the upper stud started in the hole, the divider tab in the lens slid under the housing tab, and with the gentlest pressure to slide it home, the non-alignment of the divider tab and stud led to a side load on the stud. POP! The plastic extrusion holding the stud broke in half. Dayumn.

A new lens arrived today. I have enlarged the three holes in both housings, and everything is good.

If I recall correctly, the OE lenses had captive nuts in the two lower attachment tabs. I chose to pre-drill and tap the holes, but the aluminum is too thin to be secure. So, I made two 4mm studs and used a backing nut with red Loctite. Once pulled up with the inner retaining nuts, they’ll hold.

Upon reflection, I think it might have worked to have locking nuts on both sides of the tab, but didn’t want to risk having something keep the lenses from seating on the new gaskets.

Progress continues....
 

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Hello Don,

My 2000 Touring is a normal one. I do not remember that I have this “sling” ==> I will check on the picture.

I receive your message. You'll need that :

IMG_7152.jpg

IMG_7154.jpg

I had the same problem than you wit the rear lenses and apply the same method :smile2:
 

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Discussion Starter #539
Serge,

I'll get some pics of the sling today.

It is quite simple. It is made from a vinyl, perhaps similar to what was in the glove box. Probably a modern, untextured vinyl with minimum stretchiness.

There are two flat, steel bars sewn into the ends, each with three holes drilled into them, both ends and the middle. One bar attaches to the same holes that hold the rear seat back upholstery. The other bar attaches just below the upper, rear opening of the convertible top "pit". You may be able to locate these drilled and tapped holes as a way of determining where to drill the holes in your rear bar. The screws for the rear are 4mm.

I'll try to get you some measurements if you decide to make the sling.
 

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Don, thank you for the detail, but do not bother yourself :

I found a picture of the part on my car when I was starting to work on it :

IMG_0461.jpg

I have to look where I can have leave this part (should be with the soft top ...)
 
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