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Hi Don,

I can put the hood aside for awhile.
To come back on this subject, I have bought that :

https://www.normequip.com/toile-anti-chaleur-m0-incombustible-protection-soudure.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIqvTR6eKP3wIVlOd3Ch2UoQ-PEAQYASABEgK9rvD_BwE

For me the look is perfect.
I will put a sound isolating inside (like Dynamt).

You may wait a little bit to see the result : the time for me to learn how to use a sewing machine.

"hood scoop stainless trim pieces" : what is that ?

Serge
 

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Discussion Starter #462 (Edited)
Serge,

On the hood (bonnet), there are two air scoops that are open and allow air into the engine compartment. They are possibly more decorative than functional, but who cares?

At the front of both scoops are stainless trim pieces that decorate the openings. This is what my post addresses.
 

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Just asking as I am curious if the pieces are stainless steel, why didn't you just cut off the studs, fit the pieces and have the studs welded back on in their proper place? I wouldn't pose this question if the pieces were chromed but stainless make such a fix easier, granted you would have to take them somewhere to have the welding done which might make the task harder.
 

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The snorkel trim pieces were probably custom fitted and chrome plated for each car. I have one on my car that, after re-plating, is held on by about one thread! My plater covered the threads with tubing or electrical tape but some of their solution ate away at the threads. I wonder if the profile is different between the Euro and US versions of the car; maybe you got a set of Euro scoop trim pieces.



Rick, I am sorry, I did not mean to imply that there was anything wrong with the ironing board type of material. It is fine for the little Giulietta and Giulia cars (I questions its use on the space shuttle though, I think it had a ceramic heat shield) but it is totally wrong for the Two-Liter. The material Mark (MAS) found looks right; sadly discontinued. Here is a photo that I borrowed, showing a totally original Two-Liter under hood insulation and one that just made me realize that my underhood light is on upside down! I believe this is a part that OKP can supply but you will have to contact Christian Ondak to request it. Sometimes, nothing is better than the wrong 'thing'; if that makes any sense.

170913 Underhood mat.jpg

Serge your material probably has a lot better fire resistance than the original but it appears a little different from the original.

Mark
 

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Hello Mark

Here is a photo that I borrowed, showing a totally original Two-Liter under hood insulation and one that just made me realize that my underhood light is on upside down!
There is no picture...

I have one on my car that, after re-plating, is held on by about one thread! My plater covered the threads with tubing or electrical tape but some of their solution ate away at the threads.
I have the same problem ...
 

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The snorkel trim pieces were probably custom fitted and chrome plated for each car. I have one on my car that, after re-plating, is held on by about one thread! My plater covered the threads with tubing or electrical tape but some of their solution ate away at the threads. I wonder if the profile is different between the Euro and US versions of the car; maybe you got a set of Euro scoop trim pieces.



Rick, I am sorry, I did not mean to imply that there was anything wrong with the ironing board type of material. It is fine for the little Giulietta and Giulia cars (I questions its use on the space shuttle though, I think it had a ceramic heat shield) but it is totally wrong for the Two-Liter. The material Mark (MAS) found looks right; sadly discontinued. Here is a photo that I borrowed, showing a totally original Two-Liter under hood insulation and one that just made me realize that my underhood light is on upside down! I believe this is a part that OKP can supply but you will have to contact Christian Ondak to request it. Sometimes, nothing is better than the wrong 'thing'; if that makes any sense.

View attachment 1539224

Serge your material probably has a lot better fire resistance than the original but it appears a little different from the original.

Mark
Nothing to be sorry about.. I was just playfully pimping you and thankfully You didn't take it to be mean. I'm in enough hot water. The stuff just posted out of France was what i was using for the Giulietta.. lost my mind for a nanosecond...It's not ironing board material but a glass cloth we used to use to wrap pipe insulation in nuke plants.. It is silicone impregnated .. Anyway, I understand fully the want to be original but if a car like this when done suffers from only the wrong hood blanket then I would consider it more than a moral victory. In fact I dare say the original stuff if as crappy as I think it is might in fact be a turn off to the 99% people who don't know it is right. I'd rather try to appeal to them than the 1% like you guys who own them and know what is correct. . Just my take on it. PS when my glass cloth source dried up i did use the ironing board stuff on my Giulietta Sprint which was originally poly-vinyl.. It won Best of Show at Lexington and a Certificato D'Oro. if that matters.
 

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I have a very strong suspicion that, like a lot of parts for old Alfas, there is only one manufacturer providing a given part to all of the known distributors.

As I've commented upon before, ALL of the 2-liters I've had used a black, flimsy plastic over a stringy fiberglass mat, except for the current 1488. The car I'm working on now had the remnants of a silver-over-fiberglass, so I dunno if there were factory changes, or owner mods. My first car, bought in about 1972, used a black plastic over fiberglass.

Don, If I may, I suggest that you contact Matt Jones at ReOriginals. Not too many people know just how long Matt has been in the vintage parts business but he was the first (I think) or one of the very first to search out the period oem Alfa parts suppliers. Many of these suppliers were very small companies or even individuals and were pretty close to cottage industries. He found, for instance, the original supplier of 105 trunk mats which had a distinctive ribbed texture that nobody seemed to reproduce. Matt once told me he searched out and found the original source, a small shop, which still had the tooling for the old style mats and were happy to start making them again. He speaks italian, is very well versed in the old-school Italian cottage industry style suppliers and understands old Alfas. He might very well know where to get the material you need. Come to think of it he may even have some in his wearhouse.
 

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Mark seems to be right about the scoop chrome trim being custom matched to the car. On the backside of these there is a 3 digit number stamped on it as I have found on various small body parts.

Not to beat a dead horse here but here is also an original mat from a 1959 100k mile spider. It actually has held up pretty well. The original silver gray finished can still be seem. When I find the closest color to the original in that vinyl wrap I will post it. If an original look is not a concern, then I,m sure there is a lot of material out there that will work.
 

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Discussion Starter #469
I’m headed out for a full Sunday of shop. I never doubted the trims were individually matched. I’ve seen too many variations in the scoops to believe one size would fit all. However, I expected the repros could be modified to fit. The ones I got can’t.

Meanwhile, the leading edge of the repros are quite wide. I’m going to narrow my test pieces forward edge quite a bit to see if that will allow changing the curvature. I have access to shrinkers and stretchers, but that would require repolishing the stainless.
 

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Discussion Starter #470 (Edited)
Lighting

Today has, so far, been lighting.

The right taillight assembly in in place, awaiting a cleanup of the wiring, and the lens gasket to complete. I discovered the original flasher is dead, which is a shame as bullet-receptical flashers are not easily found anymore. I bought an electronic flasher, in anticipation of using some LED bulbs, but it was DOA. Bought a replacement heavy duty, more traditional looking unit, and it’s blinking and clicking with gusto. Side repeaters twinkling in harmony.

Both headlight assemblies are in place, and shining brightly. I’m awaiting a new foot high beam switch, but screwed two of the wires together to test them. All good. No isolating relays yet. Those will be part of the footswitch installation.

I took extra care with all of these connections, particularly grounds. They should last until Walle rules the planet

I’ve got the fog light reflectors off being nickel plated. I should have thought about those earlier. They ALWAYS need redoing. Same guy is plating the under dash levers as well. Ditto shoulda earlier.

Replated mirror came back, and that has been assembled. Cliff’s Classic Chevrolet. I’ll wait until the windshield is in place, lest something tragic happen while installing it.

The wiring and related electrics take fuuurrrrrreeehhvvvuh. I’m looking forward to moving onto mechanical stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter #471 (Edited)
Phew!

In addition to the last report, I got the right long trim spear mounted. Much easier than the left, as the rear exit hole hadn’t been welded over.

You’ll note a picture below of a “self leveling washer”. I spotted these at McMaster-Carr, and picked up a set for the car. They deal nicely with the uneven terrain inside the wheel wells where the angled trim retainer studs exit.

I worked some more on the hood scoop trim, with interesting success.

I used a very small belt sander and narrowed the forward flange of the trim. This allowed me to open up the curvature on the outer end, and slightly close up the curve of the inner end. This, plus some fancy grinding where the outer stud mounts, allowed me to get a good conformity to the scoop. It’s not a workable solution, as the stud will certainly fail with so little meat at its attachment point, but I’m pleased with the narrow-flange experiment.
 

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The battery cables and ends look fantastic! What are the primer gray spots under the front, side grills (behind where the bumper goes) for?

Mark
 

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Discussion Starter #473
Mark,

You may recall that this car had in-period Marchal driving lights installed. All of it nicely done. I decided to take the car back to just before the Belgian dealer convinced the first owner that he would appreciate having more light shining down the road.

Anyway, I gave Kelly instructions as to which holes he should heal up, and which he should leave visible. Laughably, he covered over quite a number that were supposed to be left open, so part of his job last week was to help uncover the missing holes.

For whatever reason, he filled in one of the driving light holes and left the other open. The primer is where he welded up the holes, slightly filled, and primed the area. When I get to the end of the assembly, he’ll repaint these, and any other booboos.
 

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Discussion Starter #474
No. Not that one

It’s been a most productive day, in spite of a head cold and powerful antihistamines.

Both taillights in place and tested, awaiting new lens gaskets.
Below-dash ventilation scoops and new distribution tubing in place.
Pre-assembly of license plate light assembly.
Jig for repairing hood hinge half done.
Windshield spray nozzle and tubing in place.
Windshield wiper motor successfully tested, after rebuilding some of the guts.
Wiper rack installed.
Both hood scoop trims bashed into attractive shape, but will require rewelding a stud or two.
Insulation pad installed onto the back of the firewall. Nice replacement for the original purchased from Summit Racing. The original, which is much like the hood insulation, was glued onto back of the firewall. The insulation I’m using should work the same, but I may want to add an upholstery screw or two for added longevity.

I’m prepping the glove box to be recovered. Black vinyl, red velour, or the same red leather as the interior?

I walk by this engine all day, everyday. I’d love to see the faces of the judges at Concorso if I used it rather than my ready-to-go 00204.
 

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I walk by this engine all day, everyday. I’d love to see the faces of the judges at Concorso if I used it rather than my ready-to-go 00204.

That was Bob's plan for the car all along. He'd get positively teary-eyed if you put the V6 in your car.
 

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I am in the process of restoring a 2600 Spider. The car will use the original engine with the Solex carburetors. I have seen a 164 engine in a 1974 GTV and it looks very strange but, not as strange as a 1974 Spider with a 351 Ford engine. I do not see the logic to put different engines in old cars when you can buy a Giulia QV with 505 Hp. I own a Milano Verde and would never turbo the engine even if I only used it on the track because the drivetrain and suspension would have to be completely modified at great expense and it would probably not be a good track car.
 

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The engine Don is talking about is his extra Montreal engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #479
The engine Don is talking about is his extra Montreal engine.
I’ve never played with the V6 stuff, so it didn’t occur to me anyone would confuse a V8 with one.

And no, it won’t be going into 1488. It wouldn’t surprise me if it was lighter than the 2000 engine, but it’s just wrong for this type of car.
 

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Discussion Starter #480 (Edited)
Don't forget to fill the steering box... might be the time too do it, in case of you know what.
The steering box is one of the two I rebuilt with new parts. As part of that process, I left it in the vise, filled up with lube, looking for drips on the floor. It stayed clean for a week, so fingers crossed.

In fact, I think it’s full now. I’ll check. Good idea.
 
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