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Please do the interior in a pastel green. Maybe darker green wool carpet. Whatever you like, but, it could be the nicest one ever!
Great work, fueled by your passion. It will be over the top! If you ever see #836 in the LA area, that was my effort.
RML
 

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Please do the interior in a pastel green. Maybe darker green wool carpet. Whatever you like, but, it could be the nicest one ever!
Great work, fueled by your passion. It will be over the top! If you ever see #836 in the LA area, that was my effort.
RML
Sorry, I don't wan't to take this thread off topic (my apologies, Don!) but nothing beats the appearance of an original 102 Sprint interior. Below are a couple of pictures from a largely original car I had the privilege to see last year. I'm still blown away by the 2-color rubber floor mats.

P1080889 (700 wide).jpg

P1080890 (700 wide).jpg

P1080898 (700 wide).jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #183
RML,

Not sure if you're replying to me or Jay. I can imagine green actually working nicely with the greenish-yellow exterior that was on my car. Alas, I'm going back with what I found, being black upholstery, but leather rather than vinyl. I still can't get my head around the red carpet that was in there, seemingly original. Mine will be a dark gray "anthracite". Those colors are a natural marriage with various yellows.

Anyway - time for a quick update...

The shop has been organized for component rebuilding and final assembly, whenever that happens. I've got to use the oven I made to duplicate the rear window in the fiberglass hardtop I've got, then move it out for more room. Otherwise, plenty of space for misdemeanors and other low crimes.

I'm slowly coming together with the brake overhaul. Still awaiting rebuild kits for the rear cylinders, but the front came together nicely, and are mounted on the backing plates. The clutch slave cylinder came completely clean, much to my surprise. It looked quite crusty. Ditto the clutch master, but I've brought in a couple of new ones instead. They can be had very cheaply, whereas the slave is pricey.

The convertible top structure is all nicely powder coated and reassembled. It'll go out into garage #4 until it's ready for installation.

Anyone have the tool or know the trick to get the collar off of the steering wheel shaft so I can remove the circlip, take out the shaft, and replace the bearing? It appears to need a special tool to grip it, and I don't care to mutilate such things with a plumber's wrench.

Tonight will be fun. Tomorrow will be my second colonoscopy, being of that age, and succumbing to the doctor's entreaties to have things looked at every five years. Those of you who've been here know that today I'm taking in only liquids and jello, plus an amazing drink that I think normally serves as anti-freeze. I saw the word "glycol" on the label, after which my eyes crossed, my gut started rumbling, and it seemed better to be somewhere where I could aim in the general direction of the toilet. They have, at least, improved the flavor over the traditional Moviprep.

If you've not had this procedure, I encourage you to find Dave Berry's article on it. Just Google "Colonoscopy" and "Dave Berry", and don't aim at your wife during the certain spit-takes that will result.

In a sort of self-torture, I made the grandson a pie-plate of "chili pie". One of our favorites. I had to walk away, lest I eat some, giving the doctors tomorrow more to worry about than they expected.
 

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Discussion Starter #184
A 102 Sprint is the only Alfa I'd consider adding to my fleet these days. But, probably totally redone rather than needing me to do it. Very pretty.
 

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Discussion Starter #185
102 heater fan motor

Anyone have a lead on a source to buy or have rebuilt the fan motor for a 102 Roadster? Not the same as the 2600, I'm fairly sure.
 

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Heater fan normal small electric motor.

Don, the heater fan motor is like any small electric motor. Have some local vacuum cleaner repairman fix it. And if the first one you go to says he doesn't do them any more ask him who still does. Try not to tear the rubber holder around it, but if you do, then both AFRA and Mr. Fiat have them at about $40.00 plus extras and postage.
 

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Discussion Starter #187
Jay,

From the looks of it, someone tried to fix it before, and it's all in pieces, with probably more than one MIA. That's why I'm looking for a fresh start. I'm not bad with electric motors, but I think I've only got half of the body, among other things.
 

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Anyone have the tool or know the trick to get the collar off of the steering wheel shaft so I can remove the circlip, take out the shaft, and replace the bearing? It appears to need a special tool to grip it, and I don't care to mutilate such things with a plumber's wrench.
Done,

On the 2600 (same steering shaft) I have used a big circlip pliers.
First unscrew the 2 screw and then put the tips of the pliers into the 2 small holes

IMG_2078.jpg

pince-circlips-exterieur-32-100-mm-bec-90-facom-197a23-L-29087-95947_1.jpg

With the 2000, the collar was completely blocked.
A friend of mine weld a tub on it to be able to unscrew it.

IMG_2090 copie.jpg

IMG_2096 copie.jpg

IMG_2098 copie.jpg

More detail one this french post :

Spider 2000 Touring - Page 37

Regarding bearing, you can buy standard one and add some washers.
 

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Don, I did get a new heater motor years ago from AFRA. I ordered by using the two liter Alfa part number 102.00.57.028.01 but they cross referenced to a different one that fitted. They can cross reference because they get all kinds used in the Italian auto industry by car builders other than Alfa too. By the way, the three eared rubber mounting around the motor for the two liter motor is 102.00.57.170.00. And if you do order from AFRA please pick up FOR ME TOO as well as for yourself and the many others who need one of those cardboard seeming big" air circulation pipes [the one between heater and the "distributer", i.e. heat splitter you painted all fuzzy] listed as 102.04.57.102.00. For some reason these always seem to be missing or torn up on two liter spiders. The one on mine is ratty. The are weird size. The American 4" closedryer duct is too small, but the 6" is too big. It seems to be a 5" heat ducting that fits between. When I in Germany last May I thought I had found the solution in German 100mm and then 125mm common duct sizes. I knew the 100 too small, but the 125mm I brought home is too big by about 10mm. Car uses about 110mm (maybe 115) inside diameter. Don't know where Alfa got that but perhaps Italy has its own sizes.
 

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Discussion Starter #190
The air duct is 115mm ID. I used a rubber duct from McMaster Carr that is exactly that size, and fits perfectly. However, if you know what it ought to be, then the rubber doesn't look right. It looks, perhaps, a bit more industrial than the rest of the car deserves. If AFRA has them, I will certainly order some. I just placed an order with them, so I'll see if they have shipped yet and try to connect the dots.

Thanks for the tip.

The problem with having a ton of experience is believing you're always right. I have that problem as well.

I've seen too many air handler boxes that were a well-aged wrinkle paint to believe they were all taken out early in their life and repainted. I like the gloss or semi-gloss, and that's what 00072 has. I'm just copying what MUST be original on this car. Having said that, I really can't replace the red carpet with light yellow exterior, and black interior. My eyeballs would wobble. I'm probably going to end up with either a dark or mid gray carpet. Fortunately, the Museo swears they have no data on my car's interior, just the exterior, so I can claim I'm following form.
 

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Hello,

Did you find the cardboard seeming big air circulation pipe on Afra website ? I can't find it...
 

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Discussion Starter #192
PS70

AFRA has probably no more than 1% of what they stock listed on their website. You have to send them a request for quote to determine what they have.

I sent a request for the duct on Friday, and hope to get a reply this coming week.
 

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OK, I'll wait the answer to your request.

Did the explanation regarding the collar of the steering wheel shaft OK for you ?
 

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Discussion Starter #194
I attempted to use a pair of right-angle needle nosed pliers, which looked a lot like your tool. However, it was still on too tightly. So, I heated the collar with a butane torch for a while, then used a round-nosed punch and hammer to tap in the desired direction. It finally moved, and once it did, it was easy business remove it with the pliers.

I've ordered a pair of 6005ZZ bearings to renew the smoothness. A total of about $14.50 ordered on Saturday morning with a promise to be delivered here tomorrow (Monday). Amazon is doing some amazing things.
 

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Picking up on the question about replacements for the heater motor, my motor and rubber mount are both missing so I don't have much to go on. Presumably these are relatively standard items and are hidden from view so originally is less important. Could someone post the dimensions of the original - body length and diameter and length and diameter of protruding shaft. Thanks, Richard
 

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I've ordered a pair of 6005ZZ bearings to renew the smoothness. A total of about $14.50 ordered on Saturday morning with a promise to be delivered here tomorrow (Monday). Amazon is doing some amazing things.
Take care Don.
For me this bearing has a thickness of 12 mm.

That is the right thickness of the external ring.
But the thickness of the internal ring should be 14mm.

If you use this bearing, you will translate the steering wheel from 2 mm and you will increase the gap between the wheel and its support.

Personally, I have purchased 4 washers of 1 mm thickness to unlarge the internal ring :

img_2217.jpg

img_2218.jpg

img_2219.jpg

(I think on the whole globe, there are only 2 people who think to change these bearings)
 

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Regarding Jay's request:

I was able to order this corrugated heater duct from Christian Ondak at OKP about 20 years ago...it might be worth checking with him.

air duct.jpg

And if you do order from AFRA please pick up FOR ME TOO as well as for yourself and the many others who need one of those cardboard seeming big" air circulation pipes [the one between heater and the "distributer", i.e. heat splitter you painted all fuzzy] listed as 102.04.57.102.00. For some reason these always seem to be missing or torn up on two liter spiders. The one on mine is ratty. The are weird size. The American 4" closedryer duct is too small, but the 6" is too big. It seems to be a 5" heat ducting that fits between. When I in Germany last May I thought I had found the solution in German 100mm and then 125mm common duct sizes. I knew the 100 too small, but the 125mm I brought home is too big by about 10mm. Car uses about 110mm (maybe 115) inside diameter. Don't know where Alfa got that but perhaps Italy has its own sizes.
 

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Back for just a moment to the fresh air duct hose. I highly recommend NOT ordering this part from AFRA. I ordered one and this (see below) is what I got. C'mon, it's not even black. OK, it was not all smashed up when I got it. That happened some time ago while residing at the bottom of my aluminum recycle bin. I then bought the McMaster Carr hose that Don recommended. Much better!
 

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Discussion Starter #199
I've exchanged emails with Christian at least three times in the last decade about this hose, the most recent being two weeks ago. He acts like he never heard of it.
 

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Day 61

I've retrieved the car from the blaster. Maybe not as wonderful as when he did my previous project, but I'm ok with it. Not cheap, but boy does it save time, and time is money, right?

I got it down to the body guy on Tuesday. I hope I don't eat my words, but I feel really good about this fellow. He's done work for me on both the Amphib and the Full Monty, and I was happy with both experiences. Fingers crossed. I'm sure he's not used to receiving a project already stripped, and mounted on an operational rotisserie. I think it actually motivated him to get busy, which was exactly my plan.

This phase is sort of schizophrenic. I have to manage the needs and emotional states of the body guy (Kelly), while moving 10,000 tiny details forward in close formation. The latter involves dismantling things, bagging the related bits that need to be kept together, restoring the primary piece, or sending them off to another contractor who may have some sort of psychotic departure midway through the process. I'm not far from shipping a large box of irreplaceable chrome up to Seattle.

The blasting revealed perhaps worse than my hopes, but better than my expectations.

The rockers are done. Thin, and perforated. One tiny breach in one floorboard, no more than 1/8" X 1/4". The bottoms of the sills look perfect, so I'm hoping the BIG OPENING doesn't reveal internal disaster. The channel along the bottom of the left door needs replacing, but the right appears OK. Might do it as well, on general principles, however.

The rear of the spare tire tub has issues. It could be easily cut out and patched, but we're debating installing an entire tub to avoid having a seam, or doing a high-quality patch that isn't visible. Decision not yet made.

Fore and aft valences are OK. The front "curb-finder" between the main cross member and the radiator support has, indeed, found several curbs over the years. It'll be reconstructed.

Otherwise, everything is remarkably good. I hope I don't regret saying that after we've torn the rockers off.

For humor...

I misconnected with Kelly in time to let him see any of the exposed areas of original paint, so we decided to just make that part up. Lo and behold, after getting it all to his shop, I spotted that I'd left one of the chrome guides installed on the rear jamb of a door, and upon removal, here was the best patch of Gallio Paglierino left on the car. He's busy matching that before doing anything else.

I didn't slow down to take pictures of the entire car after the blasting, but here's the stuff that shows the worst of it.
 

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