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Discussion Starter #1
I installed my new lift this weekend. I decided on the MaxJax after doing a bit of research and all I can tell you it's FANTASTIC to not have to crawl in and out from under the car.

Setup took about 2 hours and it's solid as a rock and very well made.

Here's some pics:


850 Lbs. picked up from the freight depot.



I didn't try to take it off the truck in one big lump. I cut the straps and took it off 1 bit at a time.



Laying out the parts as they came off the truck.



Figuring out where to put the more or less "permanent" post.



Lining up and setting the position of the moveable post. It takes all of 3 minutes to set this post up when I want to use the lift.



Using the rented "killer" rotary hammer to install the mounting Wedjit inserts. 30 seconds per hole thru 5" of concrete! This drill is badass.



And FINALLY, I can work under the cars without imitating a snake :)



I chose this lift over others for a few reasons. I liked the portability and the ability to move the posts out of the way. If it was permanent in the center of the garage, there would have been dents in the passenger doors on the Mini Cooper which goes in the left bay. I can still use my garage door opener and I have mode no changes to the garage. Didn't need a special electric circuit, just plug it in and go.

I'm a happy camper!!
 

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Cool! We will all be over this weekend to "borrow" your new lift!
 

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Pretty neat! Thanks for sharing your find. I found their website:MaxJax Portable Two Post Lifting System by Dannmar and they have several dealers offering free shipping.
Gonna leave a few hints laying around the house. I like that fact it is semi-portable. You can move it out of the way if need-be.
 

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Thanks for the tip. I finished installing mine today. It took much longer than 2 hours. In fact I spent more than 2 hours being shunted around by their tech support while I tried to resolve connections to the hydraulic pump. They apparently use two different ones but only show one in the manual. The ports are in different locations.

But I am now a happy camper. It works great and there is just enough room for my GTV6 at max height without scraping the ceiling.

Were you able to find a roll-around seat that is low enough to avoid smashing your head when you are under the car? I am no more than 5'9" (I am shrinking as I age) and anything higher than 11" is a problem.

I bought my Max Jax from Summit Racing for $2200, no tax and free shipping. I heard that Costco had them for less but the sale has expired.
 

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I know that at least one of you likes pictures. :)
 

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i will see you saturday..( will bring choc. chip cookies :):) )
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Mmmmmmmm pictures!!

Looks great! I still love mine. Yeah the lower fitting is for a singlenpost use when you have the motorcycle adaptor. Have not used that yet tho.

The GTV is up in the garage now and I moved the 1 post away so I have a clear field of work.
 

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Sooooooooooo not fair! :mad:

Sooooooooooo jealous! :p

Congrats and have fun.

Vin
 

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Mmmmmmmm pictures!!

The GTV is up in the garage now and I moved the 1 post away so I have a clear field of work.
Now that's a cool magic trick! I'd like to see a photo of one post supporting your GTV! Will these take a car high enough to park underneath?
 

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I don't have the head room clearance to put one in the garage. Is there a rust resistant one that one could have outside. Don't they leave bolts sticking up out of the floor when you move them?
 

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My garage ceiling is 8' and it fits. Is your ceiling lower than that?
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
The posts BOLT into the floor with concrete anchors. There are no studs sticking up.

I lifted it and then put 4 medium sized jack stands under to hold the car at the 48" height. I only work on 1 side at a time so I moved the post on the work side out of the way.

You could anchor it outside and move it in when not in use. They have rollers on the posts to allow you to move them easily.
 

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As an engineer, when I look at that lift I'd be very concerned about the torque (pull) on the outside bolts in the concrete floor. I'd mount the towers as close to the car as I could and even then you'd better have a good concrete floor. As a safety measure I'd get some tall jackstands before I'd go under the car. (Remeber it only has to fail once.)
 

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I am an engineer too - I've been one for 42 years. I am a TUV certified Functional Safety Engineer in the nuclear business. I trust the designers to have got it right. They specify that the concrete must be 4.5" minimum thickness with at least 3000 psi compressive strength and reinforced with steel bar. That tells me that they did the calculations. The structural guys at work tell me that this is the standard for concrete slabs in South Carolina. That is the standard that domestic buildings are inspected to. Plus, the lift is rated to 6000 lbs. My cars don't way half of that.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
As an engineer, when I look at that lift I'd be very concerned about the torque (pull) on the outside bolts in the concrete floor. I'd mount the towers as close to the car as I could and even then you'd better have a good concrete floor. As a safety measure I'd get some tall jackstands before I'd go under the car. (Remeber it only has to fail once.)
I appreciate your concern and I do place some safety stands under it but I have actually had cars on it for over 1 month at a time and it never moves. On the saftery stops that is. This exact subject has been beaten to death on garagejournal.com and the calculations all work out.

I'm confident in the work they have done to make it safe.
 

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I turned 64 last week so it could have been a birthday present. In fact, my wife has taken credit for it.
 

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Ed, Griots has a short roll around seat that is pretty good. If I remember it was under $50. It has a square seat with a drawer under the seat and a pan for tools. It is reasonably stable, but with all these roll arounds you need to be careful.
 
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