[Tchernobyl]

Hi All,
I'm still in the process of "debugging" my recently acquired 86 Spider "Veloce".

1/ Not really a problem but I like to solve things... I have noticed that none of the driver/passenger footwell lights are working. I see small disconnected plugs which I'm struggling to reconnect, by the way... I know that the PO owner had to change the battery a couple of times (the car sat for long periods in his garage so not suprising if he didn't keep it charged...). Would anyone recommend against plugging them back in? (if I ever find where to plug these black thingie without hurting my back...)



2/ I have also noticed a cut "ground" small cable here, under the glovebox :


Any idea why someone would do that?
(yes, I did tighten the unidentified (?) loose connector you can see above)

3/ I am planning to give the battery a couple charges with my Ctek charger this Winter. I understand it is not a good idea to just plug the charger to the (-) terminal of the battery. Correct? I'm a bit struggling to find a ground strap, not too far from the (+) terminal...

4/ last, yet another unplugged, unintified connector, sitting below the wheel... any hint?



To note, a PO has replaced the electric mirrors with less practical but more beautiful S2 chrome mirrors. Could it be linked?
Many thanks in advance for any hint you might share with me!

 

[ghnl]

I will send you some color coded wire diagrams - check your 'conversations'. They are for a USA version of an '86 Spider - most things are likely the same. Does yours have Bosch EFI or carbs? I do not have a wire diagram specific to a carb version.

 

[Tchernobyl]

Many thanks in advance! I have a "Solex" carbs version. I might be wrong but I think injection only came with S4 in Europe (?)

 

[Gubi]

The footwell lights pry out the front with a screwdriver, so that's how you access the wires or change the bulb. There are three wires: black is ground, red/black is +12, and white is grounded through the light timer. Looks like the PO disconnected red/black, which will disable the lights completely.

If you press on the light lens it'll flip back and forth. One side is off, one side is always on, and one side is door (via the timer, the lights stay on for a few seconds after you close the doors). What's pretty common is that you accidentally kick a light to "on" and then your battery drains, that's probably why the red/black wire is disconnected. A more clever way to solve this is to just unplug the black wire: that retains the door light functionality, but if you accidentally hit the light to the "on" side it won't turn on.

It's also possible the timer relay is just bad and that's why it's disconnected.

With a smart battery charger I've never had issues connecting it directly to the battery. If you don't want to do that for some reason there are a couple big bolts under the carpet in the trunk you can use, but there should be no difference between using that and the battery directly.

(The reason you don't connect the final negative to the battery when using jumper cables is the final connection makes a spark, and if your battery is leaking hydrogen gas that can cause an explosion. That won't happen with a smart battery charger.)

 

[Tchernobyl]

With a smart battery charger I've never had issues connecting it directly to the battery. If you don't want to do that for some reason there are a couple big bolts under the carpet in the trunk you can use, but there should be no difference between using that and the battery directly.
(The reason you don't connect the final negative to the battery when using jumper cables is the final connection makes a spark, and if your battery is leaking hydrogen gas that can cause an explosion. That won't happen with a smart battery charger.)

That's great news. This will be much more convenient !
I will also try to reconnect the lights as suggested. I don't really need it but I like when things just work. Thanks!

 

[spiderserie4]

you can plug the floor lights back in...........someone probably disconnected them because if you are not careful, you can kick them on when leaving the car, and run down the battery.
either pry them out from the front or get your hand behind them and push them out.

(Oh, and just just for info) the relay that you see in your 2nd photo (Sipea 0854) is your wiper delay relay.

 

[alfaparticle]

I don't know of a good reason not to connect the charger directly to the battery except maybe fear of a hydrogen explosion. If you are worried about that then connect the leads to the battery before you plug in the charger and unplug the charger before you disconnect the leads from the battery.

 

[Tchernobyl]

Thanks - Makes sense. It was actually a recommendation shared by the charger manufacturer (CTEK) in a YouTube tutorial I stumbled upon. But even their FAQ aknowledge that this should not be an issue.


5. The CTEK manual says: ”Connect the black clamp to the vehicle chassis remote from the fuel pipe and the battery". In the picture next to this, the black clamp is connected to the battery's negative pole. Which is correct?

When you use a CTEK charger, you can use both connections. The charger should be connected according to the vehicle user manual. If there are no other recommendations in the manual, the negative or black connector should be safely connected to the chassis. The connectors on old “non-smart” chargers can spark if the connectors touch each other, which could be dangerous if this happens near the battery. Keeping the connectors apart, and ensuring the positive connection point is as far away from the negative connection point as possible, will help to minimize any risk. If your vehicle has a BMS you cannot connect to the negative battery pole, the connection must be made to the earth or ground point, if you are in any doubt then connect to the nearest earth or ground point. Eyelets can be permanently connected to the battery as the charger is not usually attached to the eyelet cable when the cable is being connected, so there is no risk. The eyelet connections also give you enough time to check the correct attachment points.