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Discussion Starter #1
That is what I was told when I took a look at this....the car made the trip from S. Carolina to Florida in March without a hitch....currently, they can't get it started.....Rear passenger side behind wheel is gone (rust) as is the Spare well....some other surface rust....the top looks brand new.

I told them that I would not go above $1,000 minus what it would take to get it started......probably looking at offering more like $700....

Any inputs as to worth, restoring, parting out would be greatly appreciated...
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Continued...
 

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Did it make that March trip with no air filters (which look like they had the IAP ramflow filters that come with the carb conversion kit BTW) and the front ARB disconnected?


Dunno about what it's really worth TBH, but the sum of it's parts is certainly better than $700, (looks like over $100 in the alternator alone), so it would seem a relatively fair deal to get the whole car for that. (worst case scenario, you could cannibilize what you want, then part out the rest to recoupe the initial purchase price)

Less would be better, but some people aren't very receptive to someone trying to undercut what they feel thier stuff is worth.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Tifosi,

Yes, the filters were on until recently....they are off now because they caught fire (I think the starting is a carb issue), the ARB was held up by the lovely bungee cord you see...:)

I have thought about taking what I need and part the rest, but almost feel ashamed of taking a running(?) Alfa off the street to part it out. I hate to pass up a good deal...I am not afraid of getting my hands dirty (those of you who have seen what my car has gone through in the past year) or learning about working on these....I am afraid that financially I will not be able to do this at the speed that I wish....it's really a tough call for me...

I also forgot to mention that it is a 79 Veloce with 111,000 miles...
 

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A non-running series 2a spider with rust issues and a rough interior is worth about $500 IMO. The fact that it was running recently (and assuming there is no catastrophic reason that it's not now) might add $200. It has webers and euro exhaust and a newer alternator - any other mods? You could get your money out of it at that price.

What are your plans with it? If you are thinking of restoring it, you might want to wait for series 2 that will be worth more in the end. The 2a's just don't have much value unless they are in top shape and modified back to a series 2. OTAH, if you don't mind a little patina (ie rust and bad paint), for around a grand you can have a blast and wait for that series 2 with a stoved motor...
 

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I pretty much agree with Rich's assessment. If they get it running and it has poor compression you don't have a $1000 car there. Probably worth about that in parts but you won't get much for your time and hassle. On the other hand, parting out a rusty spider is a great way to get aquainted with how these cars go together before tackling a more worthy project.

What's with the weird bent Spica bellcrank on the Shankle conversion? Might be an indication of how the car has been maintained/modified over the years.

Bill Sinclair
 

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To be sure, the parts are worth $1000.
Of value are:
  • Carbs
  • Dash
  • Wheels
  • Steering Wheel
  • Alternator
  • Radiator
  • Exhaust manifold
  • Center console
 

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Just IMHO - Sure the parts are worth much more than the sum! However, the current value of a rusty, non-running rubber-bumpered Series 2 Spider is very low. Parts cars and non-runners can often be had for less than $500. I would value this car at about $500-800, maybe as much as $1200 if it can be easily started and made to run.
 

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Hey Alex,
Bobcat should have known that a thread title like "make me an offer" would bring out all us bottom-feeders :p.

Bobcatmo,
I've bought two terminally rusty but running late series 2 Spiders in the past year for $350 and $300. These cars are the most worthwhile if you have use for some of the parts in another project (the engine and tranny of my latest Spider will probably go in the GTV shell I just bought). If the rust isn't too bad I like Rich's idea of getting it running as a "beach beater". Enjoy it for awhile then part it out. You know a lot better than we do whether or not that's feasible with this car. If you don't need a beater or parts donor, I'd pass. I don't think you really want this car as a restoration project. Especially if you already have a nice Spider.

Bill
 

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Hey Alex,
Bobcat should have known that a thread title like "make me an offer" would bring out all us bottom-feeders :p.

Bobcatmo,
I've bought two terminally rusty but running late series 2 Spiders in the past year for $350 and $300. These cars are the most worthwhile if you have use for some of the parts in another project (the engine and tranny of my latest Spider will probably go in the GTV shell I just bought). If the rust isn't too bad I like Rich's idea of getting it running as a "beach beater". Enjoy it for awhile then part it out. You know a lot better than we do whether or not that's feasible with this car. If you don't need a beater or parts donor, I'd pass. I don't think you really want this car as a restoration project. Especially if you already have a nice Spider.

Bill

My daughter's '78 is a rusty beater. I have little money in it. It is intended to get her around for a couple of years until college.
Then I'll pull the engine and good bits for another project.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Hey Alex,
Bobcat should have known that a thread title like "make me an offer" would bring out all us bottom-feeders :p. Bill
Bottom feeders always have the best advice...and yes I figured the "make me an offer" would pique some intrest:D:D

The only parts that I would take for my current project would be the top and hood...the rest would be fair game.....I hadn't thought of just keeping as a beater until I am tired of it and then part it out....I have also figured that alot of the console and dash parts are NLA and would be of some value....I have also thought of using it as a learning tool...I have never done fiberglass or painting so why not work on something that is just a beater anyways....

My only current show stopper is that I know NOTHING about carbs except that they can be a B#@$!H to get tuned right (I am just about 90% sure that is the no start problem), but then again I am always willing to learn something...
:D:D
 

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...I know NOTHING about carbs except that they can be a B#@$!H to get tuned right ...:D:D
Don't let that stop you! That has been said about every induction system used on Spiders!:D

In fact, doesn't "B#@$!H" mean Bosch?:eek:
 

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Turn signal/lightstalk assembly is worth @ $100 if operational.
 

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Heck, a couple weeks back I'da give $50-$60 for the cam cover. (which you may or may not want to keep around if you ever decide to go aftermarket EFI w/ITB's with none of that 'over the head' duct-n-tube setup you've got now and want to aviod those 'what went there' questions in regard to all the ramps, dimples, slopes and studs on your current cover)

And that 140mph speedo kinda has me thinking about things :) (not that I'd ever go above 115 or 120 ever again in any car, but still the novelty of it would be moderately entertaining)

Here's a novel one if you're feeling exeptionally creative:

You could cut the nose off at the headlight buckets and graft it onto your S3 so that you could put the old SS bumpers and grille heart on, AND headlight bubble covers :D
 

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Bottom feeders always have the best advice...and yes I figured the "make me an offer" would pique some intrest:D:D

The only parts that I would take for my current project would be the top and hood...the rest would be fair game.....I hadn't thought of just keeping as a beater until I am tired of it and then part it out....I have also figured that alot of the console and dash parts are NLA and would be of some value....I have also thought of using it as a learning tool...I have never done fiberglass or painting so why not work on something that is just a beater anyways....

My only current show stopper is that I know NOTHING about carbs except that they can be a B#@$!H to get tuned right (I am just about 90% sure that is the no start problem), but then again I am always willing to learn something...
:D:D
Haynes publishes a useful manual on Webers.
 

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I could use that rear bumper if it is in good shape
 

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Check out the cams. If the PO went to the trouble of installing a good exhaust manifold and Webers, then he may have installed some decent cams too.

Don't be scared by the mystique of Webers. You can synch them by eye and feel, and if you start with standard jets and idle screw settings, then they should run OK.

Ed Prytherch
74 GTV
79 Spider
88 Verde
 

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Buy cheap, sell high. It sounds like a great beater car. When you get tired of it, start parting it like everybody said.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
NYSE: ALFA

This stock continues to rise when people needlessly take running Alfa's off the road to just part them out...:D:D:D:D
 
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