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Discussion Starter #1
I just bought an 86 Spider Volace. The car runs great but whom-ever had the car in the past cut the wires below the dash and now the wipers and light controls on the steering column dont work. They rewired the lights to a pull out switch mounted to the fuse box cover. The blinkers do work but we dont know where they are wired to. Also the courtesy light, under hood light, glove box light, and fuse box light dont work unless you ground them differently. Is there one ground somewhere in the car that is used for all of these lights? Maybe its loose? I am not a mechanic or an electrition so if anything I say is way off please let me know. Im just learning about all this stuff and dont want to take my car to a mechanic.
I've attached pix of the cut wires under the steering wheel and the wires going into the "new"light switch.
If anyone has any advice please be very detailed. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
I forgot to ad that the power mirrors dont work either. The windows do work but they are slow and squeaky, I can live with that for now. Also the courtesy light does not work when the door is opened but does work when it is in the side on position.
 

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You're gonna be wanting to obtain a wiring schematic from boardmember papajam if at all possible.

Not only are they the most excellent ones you can get from any source and suitable for framing, they are also easy to read and the color coding is right on them as opposed to flipping to a color key or something goofy.

As you have the bullet fuse system in there, you'll initially want to get all new fuses regardless of the apparent condition of the current ones (they have this evil trick they play of looking good but not actually working) and then perhaps down the road swap in a blade style box from an 87~89 model (straight up wire swapping, no drama)
Spider FAQ up in that subsection has fuse assignment/location and ratings listings.

As to the curtesy lights, check that the door switches get good contact with ground and that the wires are actually attatched to said switches. Note that the curtesy light lenses are three position switches that are set by rocking the lense in the housing. Fully one way is always on, middle is on with door (routes through timer in fusebox so they stay on approximately 10~15 seconds after the door is closed) and fully the other way is always off.

The hood, trunk and glovebox light won't come on unless the parking lights are on, at least if the switch is wired right anyway.
(or at least I'm fairly certain that's how it is on the monopod bullet fuse setups. Though there are some that say the monopod ones work w/o parking lights, but most of them have the blade type fuseboxes and slight revisions to the harnesses that came later on. Your setup is indicative of VERY early 86, so presumably has more in common with the 85~82 stuff)

Lotta goodies regaring the power windows up in the spider subsection of the forum.
Check the FAQ there first.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
can somebody, anybody please send a picture of the underside of their steering wheel like the one above, but with the wires attached like they should be. Also how do you remove the upper plastic above the steering column. It would be easier to get to those wires I need to fix. Thanks in advance, B.
 

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On the monopods I'm fairly sure you have to at least loosen the pod to get the top cover off the column.

As to the value of a photo with all the wires hooked up, I don't think that's gonna do you a lot of good over a decent wiring diagram as at least the diagram will trace to where the wires terminate as opposed to playing guess which connector a photo brings into play.

Still, you might find one up in the spider subsection of the forum along with 'structions on how to get that upper clamshell half removed.
 

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To remove the upper half of the column cover from your '86 model you may need to either loosen/remove the monopod instrument panel or loosen/lower the steering column. (On our dual pod Spider I can lift up the pods slightly and maneuver the column cover out.)

Originally the combination switch would have have fairly long wires exiting the switch (wires ~ 12"-18" long) which terminated in connection blocks to attach to the under dash wires harness.

Here's a picture I took when I had the dash out. Does this help?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks Eric, the diagram is helpful, but I actually need the pic of the other side. someone cut all four wires to the lights and put them on a new switch. I would like to re-attach the wires to see if they work or if I need a new steering column doohicky. Thanks for the info, I will try your suggestion on getting the upper part of the steering cover off. B.
 

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bkbrought..your other car is a ....dodge/chyrsler..now for my next trick:):)...if you need to lenghtin' those wires solder them, and use heat srink tubing...
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Wow, I do own a dodge ram but never had to work on it. The wires are cut very short on the alfa so I need to get the top cover off to be able to get to them to splice or lengthen them at all. If you look at the very first pic, the blue things are where the wires should be and the last pic is where they are. I just want to make sure i get everything in the proper place...
 

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try this.. after you find out the colour code of those wires, go to your local pick and pull, find a dead eurocar.. cut back the tape cover, finde the same colour code on thos e wire cut what you need.. soder in. at least it will look clean, and at a later date you can trace the wire, or a least the next buyer of the car.
 

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Thanks Eric, the diagram is helpful, but I actually need the pic of the other side. someone cut all four wires to the lights and put them on a new switch. I would like to re-attach the wires to see if they work or if I need a new steering column doohicky. Thanks for the info, I will try your suggestion on getting the upper part of the steering cover off. B.
I'll bet that when you see the colors of the wires inside the column that they're the same colors as the wires going to the new switch? I'll also bet that the reason there is a new switch is because the column switch is not working, and the PO found out how much money a proper replacement cost..

When you do get a new column switch in there, do yourself a favor and add a set of headlight relays. The column switch is overloaded and the contacts burn out over time (which is probably what happened to the one that's in there). Relays will lengthen the life of the switch big time.

bs
 

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Relays will lengthen the life of the switch big time
:nod:
I'd hazard the conversion could bring decades longer life, and then if it did fail, it would be the relays not the switch.
Though saids switch can still gum up and get corroded contacts over time, but that's hardly fatal.
 

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I don't have a picture of the other side of the column. Will these do? If you need higher resolution copies send me your email address via PM.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks again Eric, those last pix were helpful. Update, I got all the wires back to where they are supposed to be under the steering wheel. Now the issue is this...when I turn on the parking lights they work fine, when I turn on the headlights only the right one comes on. When I switch to highbeams the headlights go off but the parking lights still work. All of the lights in the rear are working fine. I temporarily attached the wires with wire nuts incase it dint work at all so maybe they are not secured well, or maybe this problem is why the wires were cut in the first place. Last owner too cheap to fix properly. I know the lights work since they worked on the pullout switch although we did have problems with the left headlight not coming on, but the brights worked. I'm wondering if I should replace the whole light assembly on the steering column or if there may be some gremlin in the wiring. Any suggestions? B.
 

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The contacts in the headlight part of the combination switch may be fried. They were asked asked to carry a fairly large electrical current and eventually they burn out.

It might be possible to get inside the headlight portion of the switch and clean the contacts to restore function. If so, be sure to install relays to supply power to the headlights - the switch then only has to supply a tiny amount of current to trigger the relays.

Here's some info about cleaning the innards of the combination switch. Note that I didn't go to step 3 and open the headlight portion. Partly because it is working fine and partly because you'll need to drill out some rivets and figure out how to reassemble it. If it were me, I'd try to find some small screws/nuts instead of rivets (if there is room for screws/nuts).
 
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