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Discussion Starter #1
Does anyone know where I can find a replacement fuse for my main fuel pump? I believe this one to be cooked but the local auto parts store had never seen one like it. Not having seen it in its pristine state, I'm not 100% sure its blown but it looks pretty burnt to me. Here's a pic:
 

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Just use a new style ATO blade fuse and plug the two female spade wire connections onto the fuse blades and insulate any metal connectors with electrical tape.

Try to open fuse holder and read on old cermaic fuse what amperage rating "A" is of old fuse as I can't find it in shop manual. Probably a 10A fuse same as used in Milano for fuel pump.
 

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Honestly, unless you're stranded, that might be an ok fix, but if you're not, do it right. Buy a replacement fuse holder. Seriously, nobody is going to offer you more money for your car someday because you still have the original style fuse holder for your fuel pump. They may furl their brow when they see things jury rigged and wrapped in electrical tape though.. (No offense, Steve :) )
 

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Fancy mositure proof ATO fuse holder is the final answer I agree but to get car going just an ATO fuse and tape will at least see if he can get car to run.
 

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I believe this one to be cooked but the local auto parts store had never seen one like it.
They've not seen one like it because that's the holder/housing for the fuse, not the fuse itself.

Seperate the halves (same type housing as the VVT fuse up by the radiator overflow bottle) and you'll find a conventional bullet style fuse inside.
 

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Just blowing a fuse wouldn't burn a hole through the side like that(that I have seen), so it looks like there's a bigger problem electrically down the line. It looks like someone put a very high rated fuse to try to overcome blowing the normally used fuse in that position, and because of something grounding in the circuit, generated so much heat that it burned through the holder. Follow the wire all the way to the fuel pump and make sure it's not finding a chassis ground. You might want to bench test the pump too. Cars on fire are sort of a bummer. :rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I think the hole was there as view port to see if the fuse was blown. It did not melt through. I don't think Tifosi was correct either as it definately was not a holder although it is a very old fuse. I know because I tried to seperate the halfs and broke it. It was definitely blown so no big deal but it seems to have been a one piece fuse.

I will need to replace with a fuse holder and ATO fuse. The L-Jet tune up page says an 8 amp fuse is specified.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Actually, I take back my comment regarding Tifosi being incorrect. When the fuse blew, the two halves melted together thus preventing them from unscrewing.
 

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I think the hole was there as view port to see if the fuse was blown. It did not melt through. I don't think Tifosi was correct either as it definately was not a holder although it is a very old fuse. I know because I tried to seperate the halfs and broke it. It was definitely blown so no big deal but it seems to have been a one piece fuse.

I will need to replace with a fuse holder and ATO fuse. The L-Jet tune up page says an 8 amp fuse is specified.
And yes, it does separate by twisting the two ends in opposite directions, and unscrews to expose the inner fuse. And no, that hole wasn't there before, it was burnt there.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Success! Rewired the fuel pump fuse with a new ATO fuse holder and 7.5 amp fuse and we are back in business after a month in the garage. Capped the spliced ends with screw-on electrical connectors instead of tape and should last another 23 years. Of course my $5 repair ended up costing another $90 since I also replaced the TTS which tested bad (although the blown fuse was definitively the cause of the non-start). I guess just like going into the docs, you poke around enough you eventually find something out of whack. At least for us older guys. :D As usual, thanks for the replies and comments everyone.
 

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Honestly, unless you're stranded, that might be an ok fix, but if you're not, do it right. Buy a replacement fuse holder. Seriously, nobody is going to offer you more money for your car someday because you still have the original style fuse holder for your fuel pump. They may furl their brow when they see things jury rigged and wrapped in electrical tape though.. (No offense, Steve :) )
+99. My 69 OE fuse holder - while cute - failed me many times in difficult and embarrassing spots. That (the fuel pump) and headlights are two things you want to keep going reliably. Unless she's a true trailer queen, rewire these through a modern reliable fuse holder. And the headlights through a relay.
 

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I want to update my fuse holder to match the rest of the blade fuses on the car. The vvt fuse has already been done as the entire fuse assembly was missing when I bought the car. I used a 16ga wire fuse holder there. Can I use the same one for the fuel pump fuse. I ask because the fuel pump fuse holder wire is bigger than the vvt wire, but I suppose it could just have thicker insulation. Thanks.
 

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Yes, the same 16ga (1.0mm) wire can be used for the fuelpumps feed fused to 7.5 amps.
 
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