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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Set about tearing open my old motor to see the damage. Piston #5 conrod bearing completely gone and many pieces of it in the engine. Also the main bearing #2 is not in good shape. Some pics of the damage. Some coolant came out with the oil when I drained that months ago. Maybe a headgasket allowed coolant into the oil causing the damage, or perhaps it was just poor maintenance on the part of my parents who owned the car before me? The oil light was flickering at me when the engine would get good and warmed up, hinting at the sounds that were to come. Some pics. :( What should I do with it? Sell the oil pan and heads, or do a budget rebuild? I don't want to spend a bundle on a spare engine, but then again, if I find a rescue project, I could drop this one in if I could fix it on a shoestring and have it ready. :)
Charles
Edit, nevermind, there is soo much metal in the oil pan, nothing short of a full teardown will do, I'm afraid.
 

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Charles,

That is the kind of thing that happened to my wife's current car after it skipped time in the hands of the P.O. The #5 rod pounded its bearing to foil. See pics:

http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/showthread.php?t=33081

Hmmmm. You posted some info there last winter on your engine, saying it had a spun bearing but was still in time. I hope all works well for you. I took the block to a shop which was able to restore the rod to usable condition, and after all was said and done, the cost of about $2k was split roughly three ways between 1) what was necessary to rebuild the engine internals, 2) stuff along the way including water pump, t-belt, tensioner, and other routine maintenance items NOT specific to the spun bearing, like rebuilding the starter and replacing shifter bushings), and 3) the direct costs of buying hoist and engine stand and paying shop fees. If you don't have to do _anything_ out of the ordinary, you might be able to do the job for rings&honing, bearings, gaskets&seals and get away for under $800. But the incidentals add up, like cleaner, towels, sealants, and such. Plus don't forget gudgeon pin bushings and any possible head rework. These and shop fees can push your total to over $1200 rather quickly.

Michael
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
The engine was still in time, interesting that both of our engines spun #5 , isn't it? That's what I was afraid it would cost, more than I need to spend on a spare motor. Looks like IAP will give $250 for the heads according to their website and I know the oil pan is worth something. ;) The block is still good, and the rest can go to the metal scrap yard I guess, I just need to make space in my small garage. :(
Charles
 

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Charles,

Half of the direct cost of parts is the gasket set. If you get one from ADJUSA for the Milano Verde, it will have almost all of the 164 pieces for about $130. Then if you want to skimp on the gudgeon pin bushings, you may only need the main and rod bearings at about $75 each set. That's under $300 if you have no head work to be done and your crank only needs polishing. Get it mic'd and you'll know. Any rework on a rod might be money better spent on a used rod. They are available. If you want to shoot for $400 you may be able to get all of the minimalist things done if your water pump and t-belt tensioner are OK. The t-belt can be had as a dayco or gates part for $20. This is an absolute minimum "rebuild" from what I can see. No coolant or oil change costs included.....nor any motor mounts or fuel hose replacement, nor radiator hoses, nor....

Michael

But if the crank is OK and is the same as for the 24V, there there is a fellow in the UK looking for a replacement crank for his 24V
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Now we're talk'in. :D You're starting to make it sound doable. I really do want to save it. ;) I have had a fun time today in the garage tearing it down. I hit my head on a mountain bike hanging on the side wall and soon had blood running down to my eye. :eek: :eek: I'm OK now, but I just cut my thumb on the top edge of the engine block after working up a good sweat pulling the heads off. :rolleyes: Anyway, the very small block is now looking much lighter. :D Really, I'm OK now, the bleeding has subsided. :eek:
Charles
 

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I had the same thing on my 1994 LS. I bought it after the PO had had the top end completly re done. The rod bearing had been spun when the top end went. I pulled the complet motor and re did everything properly.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Does a standard engine stand work on these engines? I'll have to go buy one if it works. Anyone know offhand the bolt size and threads of the bellhousing bolts to mount the block to a stand? Oh, and anyone selling a crank and 1 good used conrod & piston?
Charles
 

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I've attached the V6 to a standard engine stand. The arms are a bit picky to arrange. I used one of the socket head cap screws which attach the tranny to the block, along with three other screws I bought at the hdw store. Unfortunately, you can't get at the rear seal or flywheel this way, or mount the clutch pressure plate. So you have to do that with the block on the hoist or sitting on a table. You could probably make or buy an adaptor for the side mounts, but I think that would be a pain.

Michael
 
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