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Hello, Does anyone know what I will need to buy to properly lower my 85
GTV6? Do you normally just lower the front? The rear looks pretty low already. Where do I purchse these parts and how much do they cost? Is there a kit? Also when you lower it what is a good size wheel that will still work without rubbing? Also looking to replace the stock air filter with a K&N or similare product. Is there a kit for this as well?? Thank You for your help!!!
-Steve
 

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Steve,

This subject has been discussed to death on various Alfa boards. I would suggest using the search function.

This is a quote from the technical section of GTV6.com:

Cars destined for the American market had the front ride height set to comply with strict headlight height and bumper requirements. This of course does not mean that they are set at the best height for optimal performance (handling). Someone conducted a poll on the Alfa Digest asking GTV6 owners to measure their ride height - from a level surface to the bottom of the engine oil sump (front of the sump). It appears that stock US ride height is near 7 inches but several owners have lowered their cars ride height to about 4 1/2 inches.
It is possible to adjust the ride height by turning the torsion bars by a given amount for a desired reduction in ride height. Information on this may be found in the factory manual.

The rear ride height can be adjusted by purchasing performance springs - which will generally lower the car by one inch - while making the suspension somewhat stiffer.


Good luck,





Hello, Does anyone know what I will need to buy to properly lower my 85
GTV6? Do you normally just lower the front? The rear looks pretty low already. Where do I purchse these parts and how much do they cost? Is there a kit? Also when you lower it what is a good size wheel that will still work without rubbing? Also looking to replace the stock air filter with a K&N or similare product. Is there a kit for this as well?? Thank You for your help!!!
-Steve
 

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Hello, Does anyone know what I will need to buy to properly lower my 85
GTV6? Do you normally just lower the front? The rear looks pretty low already. Where do I purchse these parts and how much do they cost? Is there a kit? Also when you lower it what is a good size wheel that will still work without rubbing? Also looking to replace the stock air filter with a K&N or similare product. Is there a kit for this as well?? Thank You for your help!!!
-Steve
From Greg Gordons site: Alfa Suspension

Ok, I hope you wrote down that measurement I told you to take before you removed the torsion bar. There are a few ways to set ride height. The official method involves counting splines on the torsion bar and moving a certain number of splines on the back and a certain number on the front. While I am sure this method works, for some reason whenever I try it while lying on my back under the car I seem to screw it up. The problem seems to be that I can't count really small hard to see things after working on the car for a couple hours and lying on my back trying to keep track of which way is clockwise etc. So as you may have guessed I have another way of doing this which works very well and is a lot easier then it sounds.

If using 25.4mm bars or smaller, slide the bar back out of the way. Put never seize on the splines, or if you don't have that use some sort of lubrication. Now set the A arm in the desired position. If you want to lower the car one inch set it one inch higher then it was when you measured it before removing the torsion bar. If you want it a 1/2 inch higher then set it 1/2 inch lower. The only trick here is to make sure you measure it the same way you did before you removed the torsion bar.

Now go to the back of the torsion bar and push it forward into the A arm's splines. It probably won't go in ( you have about a 1 in 25 chance that it will ). The problem here ( and the reason that ride height is so finely adjustable ) is that the front of the torsion bar has a different number of splines at each end. With the A arm in any given position the front splines will only line up in one of the rear splines 25 available positions. So rotate the torsion bar either direction, one and only one spline. Try to put it in now. You may need to tap on the back of the torsion bar with a hammer. Keep trying the different positions until the torsion bar slides forward into the forward A arm. You can actually do this really fast with two people. It helps if one person is at the front looking at the front splines to see when they line up.

Now put everything back together except the anti sway bar, and lower the car. Bounce it a few times to set the suspension and measure the ride height. It should have changed about the desired amount. Keep in mind the total effect won't be seen until both sides are adjusted. In other words if you lowered the left side 2 inches but have not done the right side yet you may not see the full two inch decrease in ride height until you adjust the right side.
 

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Or, cheat!

My Alfetta sits so nose high from the factory I think I'll leave the torsion bars alone (what a pain they can be to break free after 30 years) and simply remove the A-Arms, rotate them one spline notch upwards and re-install. That should drop me about a full inch.
 

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That is not the way! Cheaters are punished with constant ground contact and eventually cracked headers and oil sump= too much lowering!
 

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if you are not familliar with how to do this and haven't done it before, take it to someone that is, or do it with someone that knows. dont attempt this on your own! and gabor k is right, dont mess with the wish bones, the end result fore road use will be smashing and scrapeing the bottom of the car and sump to f!ck..
 

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Wouldn't really recommend going lower than that necessary to get horizontal lower control arms at the front and then setting the back to be 10mm higher when measuring from the jacking points.

This will optimise the aesthetic v's dynamic compromise and minimise the likelihood of bending pipes and cracking sumps. If you fit big wheels (16 or 17) it still looks hot (IMHO anyway).
 

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hence why you never mess with the wishbones, unless you want grind off the bottom of the car and knacker the front shocks.
 

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Wow! 2.5 inches for one spline rotation at the A-Arms? I did not realize the GTV/GTV-6 torsion bars were different than the Milano. Thanks for the tip. I got about one inch when I did this technique on my Verde. By the way, exactly how does one make fine adjustments to the ride height without "messing with the wishbones" (removing the A-Arms)?
My bad: it was 32mm or 1.25 inches http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/milano-75-1987-1989/2302-how-do-i-get-torsion-bars-out.html
 

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Wow! 2.5 inches for one spline rotation at the A-Arms? I did not realize the GTV/GTV-6 torsion bars were different than the Milano. Thanks for the tip. I got about one inch when I did this technique on my Verde. By the way, exactly how does one make fine adjustments to the ride height without "messing with the wishbones" (removing the A-Arms)?
My bad: it was 32mm or 1.25 inches http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/milano-75-1987-1989/2302-how-do-i-get-torsion-bars-out.html
Read gregs guide to see how to do it right. Torsion bars demand respect!!

You need to make a puller up, to extract the torsion bars. remove the rear dust cover from the torsion bars and you will see that you need an extractor. as you wind up the tension, the torsion bar will dissengage smoothly (a little heat wont hurt either (just remember the fuel lines though!), so long as you have disconnected the shock that is,... ie "unwound" the torsion bar, otherwise there will be a nasty surprise as an angry torsion bar escapes and tries to eat you!!

Use a chocked trolley jack to support the wishbone before you dissengage the shock from the tower, then you can unwind the torsion bar the rest of its travel nice and calmly. Re-assembly is the reverse. The reason in my earlier post I said dont mess if you havent done the research or don't do it on your own, is because, if you get the sequence wrong you could seriously injure yourself. Just remember what these torsion bars stand up to!!, even the last few degrees of travel will smash flesh and bone or watever is in the wishbones way, just like that!!

La volce, what I meant by " dont mess with the wish bone" is, you will not be adjusting the wishbone, all you are doing is dissengaging the torsion bar, and re-inserting it in a different position. The wishbone remains static. However in order to get the set up right, both ends of the torsion bar need to be correct, hence why just cheating with the wishbone is not the correct way to do it.
 

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The GTV6 torsion bar and Milano should be the same except for length. Should be pretty close to 2.5" per spline at one end.

Also, to fully release the torsion bar tension, undoing the shock at one end may not get you there. On my 75, the upper control arm hit the opening in the inner mudguard before the bar was unwound so you might need to pop one of the balljoints.

Tune ride height by rotation the bars at both ends. Looking from the back, if you want to lower the right side turn the bar anti-clockwise. Just remember that you rotate the bar in the SAME direction you want to move the lower control arm. Rotating one spline at each end will give you about 1.5mm or 1/16" (approx)

Scott
 

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The real trick to getting it right is disconnect the shock and lower ball joint, measure the distance from the tip of the lower a-arm to the ground, slide the torsion bar out the back, then support the lower a-arm to the desired change in ride height, then rotate the torsion bar until it slide in place at the choosen ride height, the re-assemble everything. If you start counting splines, it is sort of hit and miss to where you end up. Also plan on either cutting down your lower a-arm spacers, or replace them with Milano/75 spacers, if not you will end up with a bit too much negative camber and go through front tires pretty quick.
 

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I do mine like Sam - works every time! The advantage of this method becomes even bigger if you are installing coil-overs (like RSR).
Jes
 

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Only changing the lower control arm on the torsion bar will change the ride height by about 2.5" per spline:eek:
Nope, you are wrong. It is about half that. I did my fronts as the back of the torsion bars are in there for life. One spline gives you slightly more than 1 inch. I moved mine 2 from stock US height and gives it (for me) a very good height. It does not make it impractical or too low for daily use. True sports cars are much lower and you see them on the streets all the time. If you lower it, just keep your eyes open when you drive and you won't whack your sump.
 

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I think it's really silly to just lower using a spline. I haven't even read the rest of page one yet, but I do know that all you need to do is hold the LCA where you want it and just keep twisting the torsion bar until it mates up front and back. Takes literally 30 seoncds more, and you have the advantage of putting the LCA wherever you actually want it.

Scott might have been referencing a Milano's shorter torsion bar? I'm not sure.
 

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My torsion bars are locked in solid and I could not move them. I lowered the front on the A-arm 2 splines and the result from stock US ride height can be found on the link. I'm very happy with the result and it is exactly where I would have put it even if I could rotate the rear of the torsion bar. I had no alternative but to move the front only. For me, and I'm the only one who has to think so, it is correct. You are entitled to your opinion as to the result.
http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/picture-room/9699-pics-my-gtv6-comments-welcomed.html
 

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If you had said that the reason why you jumped a spline was b/c you couldn't get your torsion bars out, then that's fine. I just don't think it's the preferred way to go, do you? What if you weren't using large wheels? Your sump would be that much closer. Better safe than sorry.
 
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