[lanciabill]

Hi All,

I had thought my bulb burned out on my left front headlight. I replaced the bulb and found the problem still existed.

A little sleuthing later I found a wire corroded and pulled out of the relay holder. Has anyone ever replaced a holder or know of a way to re attach the wire into the holder so that it stays permanently? I have never had this problem before or know what is standard practice.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Alfisto Steve]

If terminal end on wire is still intact remove corrosion, remove relay from holder and push wire and terminal back into holder and hold it in place as you reinstall relay and see if wire terminal grips relay terminal blade.

 

[lanciabill]

Hi, the terminal is in the holder. the wire corroded, and pulled out of the holder. I have pushed the wire back in but now the connection is intermittent. There has to be a way to lock or clamp the wire to stay inside.

short of getting a spare holder and cutting it open with a band saw, I am not sure how the mechanics of the terminals and the wires work together.

 

[Alfisto Steve]

If wire broke off terminal end inside relay holder then remove relay and use a small small electricians flat blade screwdriver or small pick, awl, dental tool to unlock terminal by unlocking (bending) locking tab and push out terminal.

You can grimp on a new female terminal after you clean up end of wire and crimp it onto wire. Usually depending on wire size you can use one with red/pink color if larger wire use blue color size. Use smallest one you can so it will fit into socket in relay holder.

It won't have a lock tab on it but you usually can force it into socket and hold it there while you reinstall relay.

You can also get a new relay socket holder prewired and then you will have to match wires and cut out old holder and splice wires (avoid this if possible) but be sure you keep wires straight to get them to match correct relay sockets 30-87-86-85.

Which wire is it (color)?

 

[AlexGS]

You can grimp on a new female terminal after you clean up end of wire and crimp it onto wire. Usually depending on wire size you can use one with red/pink color if larger wire use blue color size. Use smallest one you can so it will fit into socket in relay holder.

It won't have a lock tab on it but you usually can force it into socket and hold it there while you reinstall relay.

Rare for me to try and suggest a better approach than Steve's, but here goes. Rather than using coloured crimp terminals, consider obtaining plain brass Utilux or Amphenol (etc.) spade terminals. If not practical to purchase a small quantity (they come in packs of 50 or 100), perhaps purchase a two-, three-, four-, or six-way standard connector pair, which come with identical-sized terminals. In the pic you can see a three-way connector pair that I intend to re-do my brake light switch with, after someone used those horrid (sorry Steve but I really dislike them and they're not up to your usual aircraft-engineering standards ) red crimp-on terminals with no locking capability.

The locking tab is clearly visible in the pic and you'll find that it clicks into the relay holder perfectly.

You can use crimp tool as in my second pic which folds the tabs back on themselves to give the result shown in third pic alongside 'factory' wire (this is a far better crimp than the plastic-insulated terminals ever give, as those are only ever 'squashed'). For best results, twist wire strands and fold back so that you crimp onto a 'double' thickness. Sorry that in my pic you can see that the wire insulation crimp 'missed' slightly due to poor insertion of terminal in crimp tool (I was trying to hold a camera in the other hand but that pic was out of focus anyway). Or you can use pliers and solder (the brass solders easily, though the copper may leach out with the heat).

I just happen to have the crimp tool, and the experience with these, from an extremely monotonous job as an 18-year-old making wiring looms for traffic hazard signs - the types with the high-current sealed beam lamps that display arrows for roadworks etc. We had to find the best way to make them, as we exported them to the USA (Pennsylvania's Trafcon company).

Steve's approach will work of course, but I was just keen to show how I cope with terminals as you mentioned it. Incidentally those relay holders are worth saving from parts cars, as they are difficult to buy new. I use them for any additional relays, to give that 'standard' look.

-Alex

 

[Alfisto Steve]

. Rather than using coloured crimp terminals, consider obtaining plain brass Utilux or Amphenol (etc.) spade terminals. If not practical to purchase a small quantity (they come in packs of 50 or 100), perhaps purchase a two-, three-, four-, or six-way standard connector pair, which come with identical-sized terminals. -Alex

Alex I agree with you and granted having access to correct terminals like my son did with his last job building things for industry is a plus.

I will see if I can find source of supply for correct terminals so I too can NOT use quick fix auto parts store stuff. Thankfully, I have seen an improvement in stock on auto store shelves lately so just maybe I go go upscale, too.

I do miss the tech and engineering support of the aero industry day job I held in days of yore (7 years ago already).

 

[AlexGS]

Alex I agree with you and granted having access to correct terminals like my son did with his last job building things for industry is a plus.

I will see if I can find source of supply for correct terminals so I too can NOT use quick fix auto parts store stuff. Thankfully, I have seen an improvement in stock on auto store shelves lately so just maybe I go go upscale, too.

I do miss the tech and engineering support of the aero industry day job I held in days of yore (7 years ago already).

Phew! I certainly didn't want to contradict you or cause offence, I hoped you would understand (with your wisdom) and of course you did. This forum is a great place. Yes, there's nothing like workplace "tech and engineering support" making bits and pieces here and there - we used to call them 'homers' - using SMD gear to rework a circuit board, 'borrowing' tools (the one pictured is actually scrap for wire-loom building, as the tension has to be cranked up to full due to some wear in the levers, so when the new tool arrived, I was able to take the old one home).

These days I work at home on my PC, but at least I get rather more time to look at the forum etc.

Incidentally - forgot to say - nothing wrong with red/blue crimp connectors (especially wire joiners and even blue wire-tap connections) in toolkit with cheap crimp tool for get-you-home fixes. I have rigged up live feeds to such things as carburettor cut-off solenoids, radiator fans, distributor points, and even the ignition coil on various cars in the past. I always return to do the job properly though.

Cheers,
-Alex

 

[Alfisto Steve]

No no you didn't however, sometimes I know I come across a little to opinionated. Got to work on that trait.

Noticed picture three added with good detail of terminal connector, thanks.

 

[lanciabill]

Hi Guys,

Thank you so much for the detailed responses. It is fantastic that I have much more information than I had hoped on what to do.

The wire that has pulled out is the high current red wire. I have attached some pics of the problem area and an over pic of my 175k mile 164L Auto that runs like a top.

the pics that you showed (AlexGS) of the connector and crimp are just plain "fast on" blade connectors. I dont think they would fit over the high current blade on the relay unless the size is larger than the standard .25"

 

[Craig]

What width are the blades on your relay? Mine are only 0.25".

 

[lanciabill]

I just measured them and they are 1/4". My bad.

it was the fan relays that screwed me up. those have extra wide, high current blades.

 

[AlexGS]

I just measured them and they are 1/4". My bad.

it was the fan relays that screwed me up. those have extra wide, high current blades.

Yes indeed - those are available as well, but as Craig said, most relays have just the standard size terminals.

I don't know if your auto parts stores sell connector pairs like the one I illustrated, but at just a few dollars it's probably worth it so you can redo those relays sockets; they certainly need a good clean up and the terminals replaced!

With your username, I can just see you driving around in a Thema Turbo, but then again they presumably didn't sell in the USA at all.

Nice example of a 164 you have, the best colour (same as mine, but your paint looks better and no dents in the bonnet from pushing on it to close) and you have the more-attractive light-coloured interior (mine is a bit of a dungeon, since the door trim padded strips are in black leather, so they blend in perfectly with the door trim itself.) I think your wheels need a clean, though! You'll probably find that some of the dust has set like black concrete in the holes. I find an acid-based aerosol foam wheel cleaner is the most effective, with a toothbrush handle as a scraper (and a toothbrush as well, of course). But cleaning the wheels is a regular task and I can understand if you've got sick of it

Thanks,
-Alex

 

[lanciabill]

Hi,

thanks for the tip Alex, I picked up some crimp terminals that look like yours. I will install it this afternoon.

I have had lanciabill for a long while and i keep using it. I have several Scorpions (AKA Montecarlos in the rest of the world) and I have been planning on stuffing the alfa 3.0 with motronic in the back.. One of my projects that just never start....

my 164 is my daily and I do need to spend a little TLC on its details. overall its a great car. I just installed a mechanical, adjustable temp sensor for my radiator as the fan usually kicks on at 235F. now its on at 200F reliably.

Bill

 

[Alfisto Steve]

Bill just picking on you, too but you need a new front tag that does not look like a crumbled up piece of paper.