Mine had to go in order to weld in the cage. I have a light-weight gear-reduction starter that weighs half that of the original.Starter motor from a Twin Spark 75/ Milano decent weight saving also works better, doors really make a difference although I think reskinning standard doors not so much, my GT sat up when I put fiberglass doors on. Does anyone know the weight difference of rear window glass versus plexi ? also I have been keeping my headliner because I like it but how much weight would that save ?
Thanks! This is definitely the way I'm going.Lots of good comments. I got my Gtv down to 1870 pounds, and it’s still all steel (no driver or fuel)
The later doors have very heavy crash beams in them, they can go. Then gut the rest and replace the stock latch with something light weight. Speedway motors has good options.
You can cut most of the hood and trunk bracing out too.
Glass is a big one. Go with plastic all around.
If you can take a few hundred pounds out, it will change your whole suspension setup, ride height etc. it’ll be like a new car.
Wow... now we're talking ounces. I agree but it will be a while before I get to this point.Hit post to fast...
Pitch the Dust shields
Headlights and wiring
Cut the exh down
Lose some or all of the stainless trim.
Lose the Heat shield under the driver
Toss the Brake booster
I’m sure there are lots more without huge spending. Just look at the car and channel Colin Chapman!
Thank you George.Ah yes, lots of good stuff at Alfaholic$ (note revised spelling). If the rules you run under allow such a change they make a coil over front spring kit that saves almost 19 lb. and also their rear coil over setup. Both use small diameter springs compared to the large stock versions and the front kit eliminates the spring pan.
Then, you can always consider their ever-popular Titanium suspension bolts... :devil2:
Thanks. Can you elaborate?If you are still running the stock pedal box, brake MC, and booster, those together were surprisingly heavy when I removed mine. The Tilton setup I am using feels quite a bit lighter. Also has a practical use as you get better bias adjustability and a redundancy benefit.
I am running a Tilton boosterless firewall mount pedal box and dual master cylinder. Spruell used to make an adapter plate to mount the pedal box, but it would not be difficult at all to make one yourself. This gives you the ability to run a remote bias adjuster so you can adjust on the fly.If you are still running the stock pedal box, brake MC, and booster, those together were surprisingly heavy when I removed mine. The Tilton setup I am using feels quite a bit lighter. Also has a practical use as you get better bias adjustability and a redundancy benefit.
Thanks. Can you elaborate?
Thank you George.
Between SCCA club racing and VRG/HSR I don't think I can do the suspension mods.
However, I poured over your spider at the 2015 convention in CT and really like the custom air box and other mods. You are unbelievably fast!
not on the doors but reading through the thread did you lighten and balance the flywheel,assy..???Picked up some donor doors... anyone have any experience they'd like to share on how to lighten these? I just want to be careful not to lose all structural integrity.
Thanks Vince. I really admire your car - looks awesome. I'm in Glastonbury, just SE of Hartford if you're ever in the area.As Kevin said the cage side bars are your protection. You should be able to cut the inside of the door leaving about 3 -4 inches all around. Basically the door is hollow. Depending on the door maybe some kind of X brace. And you don't need any glass or lexan in the doors. Just front, back and side .
Mike, where in Ct do you live ? I am in South Salem NY , 10 min from Danbury. Be happy to stop by some time.
cool threadYes, flywheel is aluminum.
My current doors have the side impact beams but the donors do not. Maybe I don't have to do any cutting and instead just need to clean them up, paint them, and replace the glass with Lexan?