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Discussion Starter #1
Currently trying to remove the torsion bars and am hung up on the tool described in the workshop manual. Is there an equivalent tool that I could pick up from Harbor freight/ auto part store? What do most use when removing the bar?

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1984 GTV6, 1973 Berlina, 1987 Milano
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Yes, I believe people make a similar tool using a plumbing cap and a long screws and a couple nuts. You screw the screw into the end of the bar, then crank down the outside nut to pull the screw and bar out.
 
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I've done it with a deep impact socket and a long bolt into the threaded hole in the torsion bar. Depending on your current setting, you can sometimes remove the lower control arm (if you can get the bolts past the arm) and then pull it off the front of the torsion bar. This gives you the exposed bar end to drive rearward with a deadblow. Or alternatively, drive the bar forward from the rear (more difficult due to the shape of the floor).

A couple of days in advance of removal, soak the bar / mount joint with your favorite penetrating oil. A little heat with a torch on the mount (easier with early cars - removable mount) will help a bunch too.

Once you have them out, use anti-seize in the splines front and rear. Every time afterwards will be a piece of cake.
 
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There used to be a link on Greg Gordon's hiperformancestore.com page with a detailed write-up and pictures of how to do it. I can't currently find it. He used a bolt and various washers. I followed his method and it worked fine...a little tedious adjusting washer count but it works well. Here is a remnant from a thread which at least tells you where to start:

Hi Terry,
The factory bars use a 10mm diameter with a 1.25 thread pitch. They normally have a 17mm head. You will need various lengths from about 2 to 3.5 inches. I guess I should have put that on the page.

Greg Gordon
 

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"No one is ever truly gone." - Luke Skywalker

Wayback Machine to the rescue.


Greg says to use a buttload of washers, but as illustrated above, just get a Grade 8 bolt, nut, and washer, then when the bolt bottoms out loosen it, crank the nut down, and proceed again.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
There used to be a link on Greg Gordon's hiperformancestore.com page with a detailed write-up and pictures of how to do it. I can't currently find it. He used a bolt and various washers. I followed his method and it worked fine...a little tedious adjusting washer count but it works well. Here is a remnant from a thread which at least tells you where to start:

Hi Terry,
The factory bars use a 10mm diameter with a 1.25 thread pitch. They normally have a 17mm head. You will need various lengths from about 2 to 3.5 inches. I guess I should have put that on the page.

Greg Gordon
Thanks, I had that article bookmarked a while ago but since his site changed the tech articles have dissapeared. Diameter and pitch were really what I was looking for, thanks! I soaked both ends in penetrating fluid, lower ball joints were not too bad to separate so hoping I can be lucky with the TB.
 

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"No one is ever truly gone." - Luke Skywalker

Wayback Machine to the rescue.


Greg says to use a buttload of washers, but as illustrated above, just get a Grade 8 bolt, nut, and washer, then when the bolt bottoms out loosen it, crank the nut down, and proceed again.
Always forget about wayback machine, thanks!
 
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