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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I think i love this car, but its hard to tell since the test drive resulted in one of the worst driving positions i've ever assumed. Is this a acceptable opinion? I do seem to have genuinely long legs, and when i adjusted the GTV6 i was in for leg comfort i realized i couldn't reach the **** ignition to start the car (5 point harness didn't help.)

Anyways, still think i'm very interested in this car, as i am aware that there are varying degrees of duds when looking at any used car, and for the most part the car was pretty good, but this IS a set-back. In part because i would love to keep the original wooden wheel, its fantastic, but i only see extensions for stupid racing wheels :rolleyes:

Anyways, just wondering what you guys do, and or if the populus here is actually a bunch of short legged Italian-Americans or something.

2 little side questions if you have the time: Does the Milano have this ergonomic flaw?, and is there anything that can be done about the rear inside tire spinning up, short of getting a LSD (if not, how much are good LSDs?)

Thanks!
 

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First off, you drive italian cars by steering in the 8 and 4 0'clock postion. That's the driving grip the designers had in mind. You can imagine how this throws Americans off with our conventional 10 and 2 position.

I don't know about the ignition switch, but once you get used to your new grasp, you should be OK.

Secondly, it is hard to get an LSD in these cars. Look for a platinum (a model of Milano) that has an LSD stock. You will still need to rebuild it probably. The Verde (3.0) had LSD but the gearing is VERY tall and not suited too well to the 2.5 liter engine IMO.

The other thing is to stick wider tires all around. You can also install a 24mm sway bar from the Platinum and Verde milanos (yours should be 20mm if your car is still stock??).

The Milanos have better gear spacing than the GTV6's anyways so it might not be a bad idea to upgrade to the LSD 4.10 transmission if you intend to keep the car. These transmissions are hard to find and are worth up to $700 if you can find one!
 

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The RSR spacer is designed for the original Alfa wheel, I had to modify it to fit a MOMO so that might be a good option for you.
I'm 6 foot 4 with longer legs and I have no issues driving this car now with a spacer and a smaller MOMO wheel.
 

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im 6'4 and LOVE my gtv6....and your right its an "odd" driveing position..kick the seat ALL the way back and then recline yourself some grab the bottom of the steeringwheel NOT the top...hopefully your long armed too or the shifter starts slipping out of reach LOL

the milano imo is MUCH worse cramped up real bad as the seats dont go very far back in them to save for leg room for the passengers
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
First off, you drive italian cars by steering in the 8 and 4 0'clock postion. That's the driving grip the designers had in mind. You can imagine how this throws Americans off with our conventional 10 and 2 position.
Its not often i find myself honestly laughing out-loud about a design flaw, but this is a case in point.

Obviously the GTV6 is perfect and i was just driving it wrong :p, how Italian is that.



about the ignition, i was fully strapped into a 5 point, and had the seat set back, so thats why i couldn't reach. In normal conditions I'm sure i could just lean forward to start the car.

Happy to hear the RSR does work with the stock wheel anyways, that makes my day!

As well, i am okay with open diff so long there are other ways of fixing the wheel slip. I drove a mki MR2 for a long time, and although it was very challengine as the slightest change in input gave a different result, because of that i was actually able to get it to handle the way i wanted to (of course only after nearly crashing 20 times or so) The GTV6 seemed to know what it wanted to do, a very consistent car if i am not mistaken, which would be great so long as i can get rid of the **** inside wheel spin-up.

Also, In a way its good to hear the Milano is more cramped, i'd still like to try it, but the GTV6 appeals to my heart just a tad bit more, and thats really what i would like in a car like this.
 

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take the gtv6 on a nice curvy patch of road and open her up....the wheelspin presents itself more around town than it does blasting out on open windy roads...the milano well...im to cramped to be comfortable period and couldnt get the seat in a reasonable position .....admitedly ive not driven it far or much but simply wasnt happy with the seat location...especialy compared to the gtv6
 

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Race car? If not, why a five point harness? Original wooden wheel? Is there such a thing?

I wear 36" or 38" inseam pants and I have no problems reaching the ignition key strapped into my seat with the six point harness, just how long legs do you have? ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Race car? If not, why a five point harness? Original wooden wheel? Is there such a thing?

I wear 36" or 38" inseam pants and I have no problems reaching the ignition key strapped into my seat with the six point harness, just how long legs do you have? ;)

No idea what the harness was about, car was stock except for UK 3.0 liter swap, which was working on 5 cylinders most of the time, but anyways. The guy said it had Koni struts, and maybe something in the way he had it stiffer on one end of the car then the other messed up with the wheel spin, its hard to say, just wanted to know if it was usually a big problem or not :)

Never really been scientific about my legs, but i remember a friend of the same height and waste line not being able to reach the pedals when i had my MR2 setup for highway cruising. Might be that i have a short Torso, but whatever the case my proportions are opposite of the typical Italian setup. So if nothing else i hope the RSR does the trick if i do take the plung for one of these cars.


As for the RSR, how long of a extension is it?
 

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He's going to say Bilstein =)

But seriously, I'm using them ( Not sure if they're sport or HD though...) and they are WAY too stiff in high frequency dampening on the rears (the car crashes and jiggles over small road imperfections ... very loud and annoying!) Otherwise, they work really well at the track.

Intrax/Ron Simons shocks are amazing though!
 

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I think they are better on all points then the Konis. Konis are like worn bicycle pumps and maybe thats whey they "work" on small surface imperfections. But lets not turn this into another one of those threads... :/
 

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If you're going to be on the track I could see where an lsd would be a benefit but on the street I just don't see the big deal, the gtv6 is such a nice predictable car to toss - brake, set it up for the turn, and then romp on it in the turn! It doesn't get much more fun then that :) Even off the line one wheel spin shouldn't be that much of an issue.

Ask the owner how long the tires have been on the car - if they are three years old they are pretty much junk. My car went through a 4 year stretch where it just didn't get driven much due to engine rebuild, gearbox, etc. the tires were not even 1/4 worn but evertime I nailed the throttle the one wheel would just spin up just really easy ... put some fresh rubber on the car and it disappeared. It sounds like the car has old tires on it.
GV

PS - 3.0l with Koni's I have no problems.
 

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I'm 6'1" tall and happily drive both a GTV and a 75, and I even hold the wheel at 10 and 2 - but then I tend to drive with the seat back very upright, which helps with the reach problem. Even so, the gearshift on the GTV is about 6" forward of where it is on a 75, which took some getting used to.
 

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car was stock except for UK 3.0 liter swap,
There's the answer for your wheel spinning - it should really have a LSD from a Milano, versin depends on which ratio you are looking for.

Also a Momo Veloce or similar steering wheel works nice on the car - 9-3 position - much preferable IMO to the stock reconstituted sawdust affair and a spacer will fit with it too.

Also you can always add a start button on the center console where the cigarette lighter goes.
 

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re the driving position, a 60mm (or even better 100mm) wheel spacer and some judicious bending of the gear lever will get you pretty comfy. Putting in a lower mounted race seat is also good for really tall folk (I don't have THAT problem!) A 75/miliano is not really much better (a little more upright in the seating position which helps a bit)

re the diff, the LSD out of a 75 is the best fix, but good shocks, good tyres, good bushes and a stiffer front anti roll bar (std is 20mm, you want at least 24mm) will make it a great road car. It will still spin the inside rear when savagely provoked (or everywhere on a race track) but will be nice and stable to drive fast on the road.

(note the pics in my avatar and signature show road spec suspension on the track - despite the roll it was fast and fun to drive. Its now lots stiffer, but only a little bit faster - GO FIGURE)
 

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Discussion Starter #17
(std is 20mm, you want at least 24mm) will make it a great road car. It will still spin the inside rear when savagely provoked (or everywhere on a race track) but will be nice and stable to drive fast on the road.

What are the options for stiffening the front roll center that DOES NOT include stiffening the sway-bar. i hate swaybars, and their love of killing off mechanical grip. I.e. where can you get stiffer torsion bars? and are any of them rated so i could try a few setups (such as 250lbs, 300lbs etc)
 

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You can't stiffen a roll center BTW. You could raise it, and make your exhisting spring rates effectively stiffer.

Sway bars are not a bad thing, but unfortunately, they don't seem to be enough for a big ol' heavy transaxle car.

RSracing has a nice coilover kit for a noice sum of change, faster.se has 30mm torsion bars for $450 US + shipping and w/e other fees, and performatek has 27mm torsion bars.

I maybe selling my 27mm torsion bars in the near future, let me know if you're interested.
 

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What are the options for stiffening the front roll center that DOES NOT include stiffening the sway-bar. i hate swaybars, and their love of killing off mechanical grip. I.e. where can you get stiffer torsion bars? and are any of them rated so i could try a few setups (such as 250lbs, 300lbs etc)
Springs first to set the stiffness of the overall chassis, AR-bars to get the roll down and fine-tune the balance.
AR-bars doesn't remove grip, comman misconception. Unless you drive on very uneven surfaces but maybe then you have too stiff AR-bars compared to the springs.
 
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