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Discussion Starter #1
A few dumb questions.
I bought a set of limit straps from IAP (I presume they are similar to others available and not IAP manufacturer). They are green and smooth on one side and an almost reflective silver on the other. Which side should face out and which in? The way they came coiled suggests the green side faces out.... I tried assembling them both ways yet NEITHER WAY do the holes for the 2 phillips screws come close to aligning!?

Am I missing something or are these just lousy repro parts?

Which brings me to...

Are these strictly necessary to replace? The canvas ones on the car look dirty but not torn. I have little to no desire to wrangle with the dreaded phillips screws and feel like I may do more damage than good by trying. I've resigned to a functional rather than aesthetic rebuild of the rear suspension and I'm wondering if you all think its reasonable to reuse the existing straps?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks this helps!

Do you remember any difficulty aligning the holes in the straps? Was there a decent amount of manhandling involved?
 

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Eric posted exactly what i installed/used when I changed out my original single piece straps on my '67 gtv. Green outside/silver inside. I bought them from centerline and yes, they were slightly out of alignment. I recall "threading" the rebound straps with the 10mm headed bolts (m6) through with the aid of a 1/4 drive ratchet- the new straps were too tough to just align the holes and push a bolt through by hand.

The straps are not necessary to replace if yours are intact-dirty is ok. If you want to go for it I would spray/soak those phillips screws for the bump stops in PBlaster and start testing if you can turn them with your tools. I don't blame your lack of desire to mess with them!

Also notice how Eric replaced those bad idea factory phillips flat head screws for the rear bump stops with hex heads-and the added insurance of anti-seize-very smart. I used a phillips head impact driver and PBlaster to get off the stock phillips head screws but I had to use a hack saw, swearing, hammer, chisel, and a drill to destroy with extreme prejudice a very stubborn bump stop screw....it had actually bonded to the aluminum block like it was one part!!

Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the tips.

I'm going to pick this guy up tomorrow: Search results for: 'impact screwdriver'

If the screws don't come out easily, I may just install my new non-rusted limit strap clamps + bolts on the existing straps,return the new ones, get my fifty bucks back and call it a day.
 

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Are these strictly necessary to replace? The canvas ones on the car look dirty but not torn. I have little to no desire to wrangle with the dreaded phillips screws and feel like I may do more damage than good by trying.
If the photo below is the condition of your existing/old limit straps, and if both sides look this good, I'd say: "if it ain't broke, don't fix it". Sure, if you are building a 100 point, concours vehicle, then take out the phillips screws (really need to remove the diff to get proper access), cad plate all the hardware, replace the phillips with allens, yadda yadda. But your old straps look to be OK functionally.

 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well apparently I forgot I was bright enough to try and cut off the limit strap on the other side... so that one will not be reusable.

The impact driver and PB bath got me nowhere, so I cut away the old strap, pushed the steel plate on the bottom of the bump stop up, cut the heads off the phillips screws and then chanlocked them free.

Well almost.

One came out, the other snapped, leaving part of it in the bodywork. ARRGH. Well so far this is the first time I've needed to go here... but what is the best bolt retrieval system? From what I can remember about these things, you get one chance, since you are basically screwed if you leave tool steel in the bolt. What to do?

Also, what did you all do to prevent the aluminium/steel corrosion that leads to this problem from reoccurring? Using hex head bolts seems like a good first step since you can basically muscle them free from anything....can you POR-15 alum?

Finally... heres a pic of my limit straps "threaded" with new bolts. Should they really be off by that much!?
 

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Rebound straps

I redid my rebound straps recently with the same kind of straps that you have, and they worked. Try using them in situ - that is, how they'll be on the car. There is a particular way that they should work (there are two different lengths - if you got four make sure that you have the correct inner ones and outer ones matched together for each side). I used green facing out.

This was BY FAR the toughest project I have done on my car so far, but also the most rewarding. Looking at the before and after pictures with the old shredded canvas straps vs the new ones is amazing. However, that aluminum block will literally be welded to the body - check the various other posts on the bulletin board about this before you dive in. It is a PITA!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I redid my rebound straps recently with the same kind of straps that you have, and they worked. Try using them in situ - that is, how they'll be on the car. There is a particular way that they should work (there are two different lengths - if you got four make sure that you have the correct inner ones and outer ones matched together for each side). I used green facing out.

This was BY FAR the toughest project I have done on my car so far, but also the most rewarding. Looking at the before and after pictures with the old shredded canvas straps vs the new ones is amazing. However, that aluminum block will literally be welded to the body - check the various other posts on the bulletin board about this before you dive in. It is a PITA!
Huh didn't think that of the 4 I bought there would be "matched pairs" I'll give that a try.

Also, interesting that the aluminum block was apparently changed sometime during the life of the 105 (mine is rectangular) yet the corrosion problem persisted.

Agreed that this is the worst thing I've encountered on the car so far. The rear suspension is one big disaster compared to the front.
 

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what is the best bolt retrieval system? From what I can remember about these things, you get one chance, since you are basically screwed if you leave tool steel in the bolt. What to do?
Get a 'reverse' drill bit. They are made to cut counter-clockwise - use in a reversable drill. The CCW action may help loosen the broken bolt. First soak it with a good rust penetrating oil. Forget WD-40, try PB Blaster or Kroil. Apply, let soak for a few hours or overnight, re-apply, let soak for a few minutes or hours then go at it.

If you can fashion a jig to hold the drill bit straight and centered, you should be able to drill out the bolt leaving just a thin shell with threads. Start with small drill bits and work your way up a little bigger at a time. Use cutting oil for a clean & easier cut. Once you get the bolt dramatically weakened you can usually pick the shell/threads by collapsing it into the hole you drilled. With some luck the reverse drill bit will catch the bolt and spin it out.

what did you all do to prevent the aluminium/steel corrosion that leads to this problem from reoccurring?
I used a generous application of anti-sieze. After I had it all back together I read of someone's better idea - they slipped a length of heat shrink tube over the bolt, snugged it down with the heat gun and assembled. That should really help prevent the dissimilar metal interactions!


Huh didn't think that of the 4 I bought there would be "matched pairs" I'll give that a try.
Yes, there should be two inner straps and two outer straps. The outers are slightly longer.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I finally got the limit straps installed... and they still look pretty weird. Granted they're not loaded (car still on jack stands), but is this normal? I can't see this lump being a function of anything besides the way the holes are drilled in the straps...
 

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Congratulations on making it this far!

As you can see from my post a while back, I didn't have that bump, even when not under load.

Why don't you send the pic to the vendor that sold you the straps and see what they have to say?

Also, are you sure when they were off the car that you had one outside strap and one inside strap? They should be of different lengths (the inside strap is shorter).
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks!

I am quite sure i didn't mix them up. I also tried all 4 combinations of inner/outer straps to make sure there were not 'two matched pairs'. I'm going to write to IAP about it.

While I'm on topic... does anyone have tips on helicoiling or re-threading? I managed to shear off one of the old limit strap screws and was unsuccessful in drilling it out. I have it mostly drilled out and don't believe the existing female threads are damaged, but the old male screw threads are pretty snug in there. Can the remains of the old screw be "chased" out?

Helicoiling seems rather expensive as you need to buy the tool...
 

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When I replaced my straps ~2 weeks ago I had that same problem (I got mine in the rebuild kit from Centerline). Whoever it is that makes these things is not running a very precise operation. On my straps there were two problems.

First, the holes for mounting the straps on the car were a little off... nothing you can do about that, just muscle the bolts through.

Second, the holes for holding the two ends together (where the plates get tightened on either end) were drilled a little too far in, so you couldn't line up all four bolt holes. I cut little slivers off of each end with a box cutter until everything fit.

How well did your 'plate holes' line up when you went to put them together after mounting the straps to the car? Or did you have the plates on first, then mount it? I feel like a bit off the ends on that inside strap might relieve that kink.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The "plate holes" weren't too bad. I mounted the straps to the car and then attached them to each other. I did have a new plate and bolt kit from classicalfa. My main problem is the weird lump seen in the photo.

When I replaced my straps ~2 weeks ago I had that same problem (I got mine in the rebuild kit from Centerline). Whoever it is that makes these things is not running a very precise operation. On my straps there were two problems.

First, the holes for mounting the straps on the car were a little off... nothing you can do about that, just muscle the bolts through.

Second, the holes for holding the two ends together (where the plates get tightened on either end) were drilled a little too far in, so you couldn't line up all four bolt holes. I cut little slivers off of each end with a box cutter until everything fit.

How well did your 'plate holes' line up when you went to put them together after mounting the straps to the car? Or did you have the plates on first, then mount it? I feel like a bit off the ends on that inside strap might relieve that kink.
 

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I have just finished rebuilding my rear suspension and had similar difficulties with two sets of new rebound straps from two different suppliers on two different continents. The lengths are incorrect (yes, I do know that they are matched short & long), the endcuts are sloppy and the holes either don't line up or are missing entirely. In the end I gave up :(

My old ones were dirty but OK, so I soaked them multiple times, scrubbed them clean and recoated them with a flexible sealant and reinstalled them.

Prior to refitting, I took them to an upholsterer who measured them for me and, if I want, will cut me a new set that will fit .....

Chris
 

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