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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,

After a long time, it is time to start the engine rebuild.
Yesterday I removed the carb's and the camshafts/valves cover.
Tomorrow, intake and outtake manifolds will be removed and hopefully, I'll succeed to remove the cylinders head.

First picture in the series (other weren't taked yet :D , will update during the process)


Wish me luck, that would me my first engine rebuild :eek:
Saar.
 

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Good Luck! I have yet to raise the courage to tackle the engine in my '85.
I will be anxiously watching you're progress.

Neil
 

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Just an observation- If you plan on rebuilding the engine, wouldn't it be easier to remove the engine from the car before you start dismantling it, since it's pretty much impossible to do it in place? Or when you say 'rebuild', are you just talking about a valve job?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hi,

I was advised to remove the cylinders head while the engine still in place, after removing the head, I will remove the engine off the car.

Currently, I understand why people told me to keep the engine in place before removing the head, the cylinders head is stuck and doesn't go out.
I hope I'll solve that till the end of the week.

Saar.
 

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I was advised to remove the cylinders head while the engine still in place, after removing the head, I will remove the engine off the car.
Did your adviser tell you why to do it that way? I don't see any advantages, and can think of a lot of disadvantages:
- If the head is stuck, you have to work against gravity as well as whatever is holding the head in place
- You have to work in an awkward position. Unless your back is a lot stronger than mine, or you have six strong friends, it's really hard physical work to do it that way
- Once the head is off, you run the risk of dropping debris into the engine while you are pulling it.

On the other hand, if you pull out the head & block as a unit, you can mount it on your engine stand upside down, and let gravity help you. Leave a couple of nuts loosely threaded on their head studs, be sure to remove the two hidden bolts under the front of the head, and whack it a few times with a rubber mallet. Usually that will dislodge it.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
... be sure to remove the two hidden bolts under the front of the head...
Well, he said that it would be easier to pull it off the block.
On the other hand, I must agree with your claims, so I may remove it after all.

Would you please explain which 2 hidden bolts under the front of the head?
I saw only 10 bolts (all can be seen in the picture) where are the "extra" 2?
a picture would be great :rolleyes: if possible.

Thank you,
Saar.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Hi,

It has been a long time but I finally took the engine out of the car...




I hope it would be easier to remove the head now.
Anyway, I notice that on the back of the engine there is the number : 2.0 :


Does it mean that the engine is 2.0 liter? and not 1.6 as I knew I have?
(in the registration license it is written 1.6 - but that may be a mistake...)
Thank you,
Saar.
 

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Does it mean that the engine is 2.0 liter? and not 1.6 as I knew I have?
(in the registration license it is written 1.6 - but that may be a mistake...)
Thank you,
Saar.
Yes, 2.0 liter
 

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Thank you :)
Those are really good news.

Currently, I'm trying to remove the head, no success so far.
Any tips/idea would be great.
Thanks,
Saar.
You should have left the engine in the car.

Ha! Just kidding!
 

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There is a factory tool to remove stuck heads, and people make home versions of them out of pipe, etc. pretty cheaply and readily. Works very well. Someone on US ebay has replica factory head tools for $100, which seems reasonable to me. I paid more than that for a real one.
Andrew
 

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You don't need that Special Tool to remove the head just a few wrenches and a big screw driver to pry - particularly with the engine out of the car.

Remember there are two bolts up from below at the front of the head.

I rebuilt my Berlina's engine in the car year ago. No problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Hi,

I removed the bolts at the front (2x 13mm from below).
still it stuck.
Little Italian, may I ask how did you remove it with the screw driver? just insert it between the head and block?
Thanks,
Saar.
 

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If you pry, don't pry on the mating surface between the head and the block. Pry on external parts.
Personally, I've had heads that were so corroded along the stud holes, not amount of prying would work. Hard water with no antifreeze leads to this.
Andrew
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Hi,

I know that...
currently, it seems that only one bolt is stuck, there is a 2-3 cm gap so the head is almost out... but still stuck :(
I hope it will be out by tomorrow,
I hanged the engine up side down spaying PB Blaster from inside....
We'll have to wait and see...
Thanks,
Saar.
 

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That's usually corrosion in the head stud holes and crud on the stud threads. Work it up and down slowly, a bit at a time.
Andrew
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Hi,

Good news :)

The engine spent the night like that with a lot of WD40:



Then, after few times of moving the head up and down...
I was able to smile....







Now I can start the real work...
As always, tips are welcome...
Saar.
 
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