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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
DONE! - Left rear window sill repair - first time need advice

Hey guys I've finally got the car stripped and ready for bodywork and paint and I need some advice on my first metal repair. I was originally going to have one shop strip, do all the bodywork and then paint, but I recently made the decision to try some of the metalwork myself. So I'm going to be a beginner at this when dispensing advice. Also please take into account the goal is a nice driver and not a full restoration.

At this point I'm looking for advice here on how much to cut out and replace. I have the full replacement panel but as I'm a beginner I would prefer to cut out as little of the existing metal as possible while still leaving a good result. Also if I can avoid disconnecting where the front part of the window sill comes into the pillar which is part of the door jamb (B Pillar?) then that seems simpler for my newbie skill set. Maintaining alignment in the jamb is intimidating.

I want to remove everything that is deeply pitted but right now I am thinking I can use POR13 and the appropriate primer for any rust that I cannot reach with the sanding disks.

So my proposed plan is to cut in the rear about 1/2 up around the bend where it appears the old panel stops, then a little forward of the holes in the sill itself. And try to fix the area with the crack where the sill joins the pillar but without disconnecting the sill from the pillar.

Do you think this is a good plan? Or should I plan on cutting the old metal starting at the pillar and replacing the whole sill while keeping the longitudinal cut up in the sill area and not partway down the side of the body?

I appreciate all thoughts and options on this!
 

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I'd advise on keeping the front part of the original window sill (where it interfaces with the B-pillar) in place. From your pictures it looks like you have a good 3-4 inches of solid material there. The front most bit of the window sill is difficult to replace, influences the door fit, etc. Keeping it in place gives you a good reference point to position the repair panel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Update on sill repair

Here's where I'm at now...I plan to go a little higher up the curve because the replacement piece is long enough.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I'd advise on keeping the front part of the original window sill (where it interfaces with the B-pillar) in place. From your pictures it looks like you have a good 3-4 inches of solid material there. The front most bit of the window sill is difficult to replace, influences the door fit, etc. Keeping it in place gives you a good reference point to position the repair panel.
By the way thank you Sebastiaan for the solid advice.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk
 

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No problem. It looks like you have cut the rust out of the car on the "fold" in the panel where it transitions through (almost) 90 degrees from horizontal to vertical. If so, I think you will have a difficult time to get the repair panel welded in neatly as the weld would then needs to "become" the fold. Much easier to cut a but more out and butt-weld the repair on the vertical bit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Update on newbie's window repair

Long delay here while I worked on another project (son's camper). Thank you Sebastiian for the advice above and I had really pondered that (hence the original post). unfortunately I had already cut the new piece when I read your response and so I decided to forge ahead. This being a learning experience and all.

Man were you right! I've spent a ton of time building a structure underneath, but I guess that was a good learning experience for me. That piece in the corner was a real bear as I have very limited skills and tools. I just now started tacking the actual finish piece in place. I don't think my approach along the top is going to work so I'll have to cut those attempts out and then drill some holes and "spot weld MIG style".

All comments and suggestions appreciated!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Finally there on the left sill!

OK I'm finally there...several weld/sand cycles, then some jbweld over the seams to fill any tiny pinholes and primer. No skim coat here that will be for the painting team. Looking at this with primer on it I may need to go back to a couple of places where I filled holes down a bit on the side of the body under the rear curve but that should be pretty easy. You can see two bumps in the 3rd pic. If I had to do it again I would not have cut along the sill edge!

Now it is on to a messy dent in the nose. I'm going to try the Eastwood Mig/Slide Hammer Puller Kit and see how that works.
 

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