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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Totally fed up of the mass of 'bright' LED bulbs available, which tend to be not bright at all, bright in the wrong direction or simply burn out after a short time, I decided to make my own for my 164.
Two different designs, tailored for reversing and brake lights.
Each version includes a voltage regulator and high efficiency (270 lumen each) 3W surface mount LED, bonded to a heat sink with thermal glue. Totally commercially unviable as the time taken to make them would bring a cost to $50 each but, when done for own use in spare time, the results are blinding. Best of all, the light that is emitted is directed exactly where it is needed - straight out, not to the sides.
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3W LED vs 21W tungsten - the LED is even brighter than this picture shows as the camera is not looking directly into it.
Not only will I be able to reverse with good lighting, the brake light switch on the brake pedal should last longer too.
Anyone tried anything similar?
 

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LED bulbs for the interior courtesy and overhead as the tungsten ones were melting-yellowing the plastics. Also led marker bulbs front and rear fenders. I had tried some for the dash but read the bulbs are resistance type and thought it better not to mess with them. Thinking of using some for the brakes as well but other priorities first.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I tried several types of LEDs for interior lights and the instrument cluster before settling on the types shown here. Not only will tungsten interior light bulbs heat damage their surroundings but the ones in the instrument cluster can heat damage the PCB - which was my motive for swapping in LEDs in the first place.
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Richard. When I last attempted this, I could not find any exact-fit. Are the ones you have exact fit and what year is you car (in case the pe and post 94 models use different bases). Regards.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hi,
I bought things like these: T5 286 Led White Dashboard 0.4w 1 Bulbs 5050 Speedo Wedge Xenon HID Bulb Light | eBay

They fit in the standard holders. As LEDs are polarity sensitive I first tested them with a 9v battery and marked the earth side, then checked the earth side on the instrument cluster for each one. I didn't get it entirely right first time but now all working well. Kept instrument cluster not entirely fixed in case of poor connection/unit for few months - identified a couple of issue bulbs and sorted them. Good thing is, as these are such lo-powered LEDs they don't thermally burn out like some more powerful ones do. They also give a beautiful, smooth light and your PCB is no longer being degraded by heat from the original items.
 

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I"ve replaced every single standard bulb on my 164s x2 and my 91 spider, all exterior, dash and interior lights. I've tried so many of them, but found excellent 1156/1157 bulbs for the taillights and front turn signals. The JDM Astar bulbs are expensive, but they are very bright, and I bought the switchback for the front so it is white while on the running light mode but turns amber for the flasher. Looks very cool. 74 LED Bulb - 3 SMD LED - Miniature Wedge Base | Super Bright LEDs work on all the dash lights, and interior lights that use this wedge bulb. Word of warning, do not replace the warning light bar lights with LEDS as it seems to cause issues, so just keep the standard bulbs there. Also, do not get colored bulbs other than warm white as it will change the color too much especially if there are multiple colors such as on the tachometer. So the backlighting bulbs should be the warm white.

To avoid hyperflashing with the LEDs, replace the relay with this - EFL-3 LED Flasher Relay Fix Hyper Flash Turn Signal Decoder Load Equalizers | eBay and that will avoid having to add resistors. I've had no issues with this setup now for over 2 years and all of the lights are fantastically bright and provide a more modern look to the car without getting stupid with it.
 
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