Alfa Romeo Forums banner
1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
56 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm loosing antifreeze from near the water pump. I know leaks are deceiving, but it looks to be coming directly from the bolt circled, just above crank pulley.

Automotive tire Gas Bicycle part Motor vehicle Bumper


Haven't checked for play in water pump shaft. Temp normal, but leak is a steady fast drip- wouldn't try going more than a few miles without a jug of antifreeze in the trunk. Leak stopped when engine cooled down.
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,142 Posts
sounds like it is time to replace the pump unless that bolt is just loose
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,645 Posts
photo is not really good enough to see anything.

when you say it is coming from a bolt above the pulley, you don't mean from the bleed bolt 'on top' of the pump?
If so, that would be an easy fix...either snug it down, or replace the little copper seal ring and then snug it down.

Tire Automotive tire Automotive design Motor vehicle Bumper
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
56 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
It appears to be coming from a bolt that holds the timing mark indicator. There are 2 hex-head bolts here, about 9-10 mm heads. Looks like they may enter the water pump cover. The uppermost one looks ok. The leak appears to come from the lower one. I may try removing the lower bolt, applying some RTV sealant and reinstalling. Need to get a long 1/4" extension to reach it. This would be a piece of cake, as would changing the water pump if I need to, but the car is at my summer place, 120 miles from my house which is where all my tools are. I have just enough tools here to get the job started and then become a real PITA. If I can even get the leak fixed temporarily so I can drive it home, I'll be fine.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
56 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Mystery solved. It's not coming from that bolt. It's coming from above, probably the water pump drive shaft seal. Looks like it will need a new pump.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,731 Posts
A cooling system pressuring tool helps with diagnosing leaks like this. Remember you have to remove the front crankshaft pulley (or remove some studs) to replace the coolant pump.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
56 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
A cooling system pressuring tool helps with diagnosing leaks like this. Remember you have to remove the front crankshaft pulley (or remove some studs) to replace the coolant pump.
I thought I've read some posts about finagling the pump around the crank pulley. I'll study those. What's easier? -removing the pulley or the studs- assuming the studs come out without a problem.
Also, if I have to remove the crank pulley, how much more work is the front crank seal? It's not leaking now but as long as I'm there...
It seems like I can't change the oil without mission creep.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,645 Posts
being away from your tools will not make either easier!

But, the front crank pulley nut can be a real pita if you can't get a power tool on to it (somehow doubt you have that at the summer place;))..and to get room to get a power tool on to it you most likely have to remove the rad (drain the coolant, and then....)
There will likely (not always) be a lock tab on the big nut that holds the pulley on, that will need bending back first.
Sometimes PO's have used red loktite, then the job gets worse.
If you got it off, replacing the front crank seal is then easy. (Get a corteco brown seal)
If you think the seal is not leaking, I wouldn't touch it, tbh.

...if you go the 'manoeuver the pump over the pulley' method, there is a stud (or two?) that you will have to double nut to pull out. (in the hope you do not bust or strip a stud)
There are also some great tools (like a socket with gripping wheels inside) for safely removing a stud and then putting it back in again...you just need one in the mm size of those studs (6mm?)
Automotive tire Camera accessory Cylinder Font Rim
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
56 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
being away from your tools will not make either easier!

But, the front crank pulley nut can be a real pita if you can't get a power tool on to it (somehow doubt you have that at the summer place;))..and to get room to get a power tool on to it you most likely have to remove the rad (drain the coolant, and then....)
There will likely (not always) be a lock tab on the big nut that holds the pulley on, that will need bending back first.
Sometimes PO's have used red loktite, then the job gets worse.
If you got it off, replacing the front crank seal is then easy. (Get a corteco brown seal)
If you think the seal is not leaking, I wouldn't touch it, tbh.

...if you go the 'manoeuver the pump over the pulley' method, there is a stud (or two?) that you will have to double nut to pull out. (in the hope you do not bust or strip a stud)
There are also some great tools (like a socket with gripping wheels inside) for safely removing a stud and then putting it back in again...you just need one in the mm size of those studs (6mm?)
View attachment 1735302
Thanks Dom.
I'll be taking my tools to the summer place to get this done. No sense starting with a big handicap. I'm convinced I can't drive it 120 miles. I was planning to remove the hood, radiator, etc for access. Hopefully that will give me room to get an impact wrench in there.
I'll get the stud remover- that's a cheap investment if double nutting doesn't work easily on first try.
Any other tips are appreciated.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,645 Posts
the stud remover works only if you have a decent amount of stud to grab onto, of course....which might not be the case on the lower WP studs(?)
oherwise it is the double nut method...loosen the nut on there and then add another and tighten them against one another....then back off the inner one in the hope it loosens the stud.

You might get lucky and a PO has already removed those studs and replaced them with bolts :)
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
56 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
the stud remover works only if you have a decent amount of stud to grab onto, of course....which might not be the case on the lower WP studs(?)
oherwise it is the double nut method...loosen the nut on there and then add another and tighten them against one another....then back off the inner one in the hope it loosens the stud.

You might get lucky and a PO has already removed those studs and replaced them with bolts :)
I won't be that lucky. The car is 38 years old and I've owned it for the last 35. The pump has never been replaced. On the good side I have very few PO problems to deal with, unless I caused them in my youth.
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top