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I´v got a problem that is increasing, my car takes water inside during rain. It seems that the water trickles down from the top/roof and then klings onto the fabric/vinyl and finds its way between the side window and the top. From here it works its way insde the doors and finaly ending up down in the foot wells. I also got water collecting in the plastic door pockets.

1. Is there a way of adjusting the angle of the window to make a thighter fit against the top?

2. What is the correct way of positioning the plastic cover/seal inside the doors?

3. I have lamination on my windscreen, could this be a leaking point aswell? With rust underneath the actual glass?

Rainy regards from Sweden
 

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I've had that problem with the water leaking in through that fabric "lip" that goes around the window, at the very leading edge of the lip, since I got my car in 1991. That was with the original top and with the new one, so I assumed it was just a design problem...for me it's less that the water is dripping in via a gap, and more that the front edge gets soaked once the top is soaked, and that results in dripping.

I think windscreen delamination would have to be pretty severe before it causes leaks; my car has it very slightly, but the leaks don't come from that. You could poke your head up under the dash and see if any water is coming in that way, but I think it's less likely.

Good luck!
 

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For the water on the floorboards, it might be a good idea to check the cowl drain tubes.

If they are damaged, you've got an insta-leak directly to the floor regardless of what the top is doing.

You can adjust the angles of the windows (threads with pix in here somewhere) and adjusting the cables on the top proper (which should be tried before tinkering the windows IMO) can help with the seal too as that's what they are there for.
 

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In addition to faulty cowl drains, another common reason for water getting inside is the plastic drape behind the door panels improperly positioned (or missing).

Inside the door there should be a plastic sheet attached at the top - below the window opening and hanging down inside the door. It is supposed to direct any water that comes in via the window opening all the way to the bottom of the inside of the door. At the bottom of the door there are drains to direct that water onto the sills (and then out). If the plastic sheet is missing or not properly placed water will get inside - onto the inner sill and then find its way to the floor.

I'd also suggest checking that the drains in the bottom of the doors are not clogged.
 

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I got a litte more life out of my top by spraying it with "scotch guard" a moisture repellant. after replaceing the top and cleaning the cowl drains, replacing the drain tubes behind the "b" pilars, and a lot of rubber seals around the doors and such, the leaks are now almost gone.
cliff
 

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Where are the rear gutter drains? I get water around the channel under the convertible top, and can't seem to fix it!

Thanks,

Eric
 

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The rear drains are along the lip between the brightwork and the top proper.

On each side, one big hose connects about 8-10 inches back from the door and one smaller hose around the bend in the trim from there. (if you pull the carpet on the side panels behind the doors you'll see at least the big hoses)

Both hoses meet pretty much straight down from where the big one is and drain out through what looks like nothing more than a bent flap in the underside of the bodywork in the vicinity of the rear jack points.
 

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Rear Gutter drains

The rear gutter drains are tubes( about 1/2inch) that drop from the gutter about 6-8 inches back from the door jamb. If there is a lot of dirt blocking them or covering them the openings may be invisible, but if you remove the side carpet panels you will see the rubber tubes.

Gabriel
 

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Waterproofing the top.

Has anybody ever tried the water proofing oil used on a japara coat?
These a brand of outdoors clothing from New Zealand called commonly Japara that is made of a close weave material that is soaked in a waxy type of oil.
It's meant to be the best rain coat in the world and having had one for years I agree.
I've got an old material hood on my 75 Spider that has been re sewn and holds together ok, but in the rain it loses the plot and leaks from almost everywhere until it gets soaked, then I'm wet but the water coming through slows down.
I was wondering how Japara oil would go on the top. It would certainly make it waterproof but the possibility of the fabric swelling or whatever may affect the fit over the frame.
Has anybody ever tried something like this?
Any info, thoughts most appreciated.
Jack.
 

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How do you unclog the cowl drains?
First I suggest you peek up under the dash to see if the cowl drains are intact. Typically they'll rot & split leading to flooded floors. If so, replace them. Yes, they are molded hoses. I think that trying to fashion replacements from non-molded hoses might not work - they'd be likely to get kinked where it makes an sharp bend under the dash. Towards the bottom of this thread are some pictures of the old, rotted drain tubes in our '84 Spider.

If the hoses appear intact, you could try blowing them out. To reach them from above you'd have to remove the cowl grill. Remove the stainless steel trim strip along the bottom of the windshield then, opening the hood, remove the screws slightly hidden under the rubber seal along the rear edge of the hood opening. You'll also need to remove the windshield wiper arms. The cowl panel then slides forwards to release it from a number of clips at the base of the windshield. The opening for the drains are in the outer, rear corners of the space under the cowl panel. There is a picture in this thread. (and while you're in there it'd be a good time to do some maintanance on the wipers & the wiper motor...)

You could also blow them out from below. The drains exit in the rear of the front wheel wells. A lot easier but possibly messy if the drains are full of gunk. And, if you blow a lot of gunk up, it'll end up in the cowl space anyway...

Hmm, maybe a shop vac applied to the drain openings in the wheel wells would be the neatest/fastest way to do it.
 

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water in the sills!

How good an idea would it be to cut a hole in the under side if the sill where the rear drain tube ends and extend the tube so water drains right on to the road instead of into your sills!
This draining into the sills has always been a crazy arrangement in a car thats known to have rust problems.
 

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I have a dripping problem, too, but it's because I run with the vent windows opened and the side windows open a crack. If I don't the windshield fogs so badly that I can't see much road ahead of me.

Tim
 

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Oh, on that note about the defroster ducts:

If they've ever been out, (or someone was slacking at the factory), you might want to check if they are reinstalled in the correct location as it does make a difference on how you can aim them.

If you look on the back, one of them will be labelled 'sinistra', which is the one that goes in the left hole/drivers side on US models.
 

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Hey, Tifosi, I do all of that!!! The blower just doesn't push enough air to make up for the radiant heat of a hot-blooded Siciliano in the humidity of the Ohio valley.

Tim
 
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