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Don: We are seeing increasing numbers of defective "split washers' that are brand new. When the nuts are torqued to spec, the washer just spreads apart. Obviously they are soft and not correctly heat treated in China (where they all seem to come from today). To try to address this situation, we use only NOS washers or we purchase Grade 8 Split Washers from known suppliers.
 

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Hello Don,
A quick question on behalf of a friend. He is re-building a Montreal engine too. He was looking for the Nuts and Lock Washers that hold the Crankshaft Bearing Caps. My engine is back together and in the car, so I couldn't give him the size. He said they were a 11.0 mm Nut. Is that correct? And my engine had pressed steel, Lock Nuts on the Bearing Caps. I see your engine does not have the Lock Nuts. Which is correct, and do you even need the Lock Nuts? I'd appreciate your response. Thanks

Karl Robertson
 

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The engine looks beautiful Don. I hope all goes well with the build and the next chapter.

I have one suggestion learned from a bad experience -add anti-seize compound (or thread sealant?) to the water pump bleed bolt, if you haven't already. You can imagine how I learned to do this seemingly insignificant detail...

Mark
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
The pic of the open bottom was before I installed the "paugh nuts" on the main bearing caps. We're used to these on our beloved cast iron 2000s, but the Montreal lock nuts are a two-piece unit; a sheet metal surround, and a harder steel center. I haven't studied the operation, but my impression is they'll take far more torque than the sheet metal things we're used to.

It's too late for me to go measure the main studs, but my bet is that they're 12mm. The correct nuts would be way up there, Class 12 or so, or whatever is the metric/DIN equivalent.

The owner is due to pick it up this Wednesday. Should be good for a toast, although he's from SLC, so one must ask what beverages are allowed.

I'm pleased to say I ended up with fewer extra parts than usual. Zero. Well, I have a fair amount of dirty hardware, as I used mainly new nuts and wavy washers.

I'm about to have a melt down with all that's going on. Three hours battling a web site that was translated from Spanish to apply for a Colombian Visa. Finally did all the video game retries (you're dead, start over, no re-spawns), but when I tried to pay their $60 fee, everything crashed. Utterly Un Welcome.
 
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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
By the way, for those of you in the peanut gallery.

I just made a post in the literature and other classified for ALL of my Alfa literature. Make me an offer. You might be surprised.
 
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The pic of the open bottom was before I installed the "paugh nuts" on the main bearing caps. We're used to these on our beloved cast iron 2000s, but the Montreal lock nuts are a two-piece unit; a sheet metal surround, and a harder steel center. I haven't studied the operation, but my impression is they'll take far more torque than the sheet metal things we're used to.

It's too late for me to go measure the main studs, but my bet is that they're 12mm. The correct nuts would be way up there, Class 12 or so, or whatever is the metric/DIN equivalent.

The owner is due to pick it up this Wednesday. Should be good for a toast, although he's from SLC, so one must ask what beverages are allowed.

I'm pleased to say I ended up with fewer extra parts than usual. Zero. Well, I have a fair amount of dirty hardware, as I used mainly new nuts and wavy washers.

I'm about to have a melt down with all that's going on. Three hours battling a web site that was translated from Spanish to apply for a Colombian Visa. Finally did all the video game retries (you're dead, start over, no re-spawns), but when I tried to pay their $60 fee, everything crashed. Utterly Un Welcome.
Stick with it Don. Moving here was bloody hard with all the permits, covid test, vaccinations, quarantine on top of all the normal stress of moving. You will get there and you ain’t gonna die wondering 👍
 
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