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I have an 87 Alfa Romeo Spider Graduate that starts right up but dies after 3+/- seconds. I bought it a few months ago to be a parts donor for my wife's 87 Alfa Spider Veloce (which works fine - fingers crossed/knock on wood) but have always wanted to street race SCCA so the Grad will live on a bit longer in that capacity. Emissions and street legality is not a concern, so if you have any bypasses or modifications that are good for the track but not street "legal", that is fine. My 1st. priority though is to get it running and drivable. I don't have the resources to do the car all at once so it will be done a bit at a time.
When I bought the car the owner reported the same problem and had started to do a half [email protected]@ job of diagnostics and repairs, so I have some spare parts that I also tested. He obviously felt like throwing $ at the problem hoping to find a cure. I also used the Veloce for reference for re-assembly and comparison.
I pretty much used the diagnostics spelled out on the following web link: L-Jet Spider
Here is what I have so far and the test results:
*compression Cylinder 1: 115psi - good spark when tested with timing light
*compression Cylinder 2: 115psi - good spark when tested with timing light
*compression Cylinder 3: 115psi - good spark when tested with timing light
*compression Cylinder 4: 110psi - good spark when tested with timing light
*It was last registered in 1998
*I drained the old gas (which was the worst Ive ever seen...and smelled) poured in a new gallon and sucked that out too before putting 5 gallons of new fuel in with stabilizer.
*New in tank pump and sock - I did these myself because the previous owner had them all disassembled
*Last owner used 1/2" heater hose for fuel line - I replaced all these but he still pumped through them to the external fuel pump, lines, injectors, etc.
*Transmission to chassis braided ground was sanded clean and reinstalled w/ dielectric grease
*Main ECU ground on engine block was sanded clean and reinstalled w/ dielectric grease
*2 other grounds on the AAV were sanded clean and reinstalled w/ dielectric grease
*Valve cover is grounded with the 2 metal washers
*Battery ground was sanded clean and reinstalled w/ dielectric grease
*Optima red top battery is used with a battery tender hooked up when not in use 12.5 V under no load and 11.5 V when cranking the starter
*Air flow meter hose, plastic middle air duct and intake boot are all hole free
*Other air hoses are original, but I can't find holes blowing in them with my 39 year old non-smoker lungs
*FI ECU (under the parcel shelf ) connections cleaned with electric spray cleaner and reinstalled w/ dielectric grease. ( I have a spare one and the car acts the same with it hooked up)
*Fuel Pump fuse okay
*New intank and external fuel pumps
*main FI relay okay
*Fuses in fuse box okay (now that I changes some bad ones)
*Grey Flywheel sensor checks okay - 880 ohms between the two tabs and no continuity between the others
*Black Flywheel sensor checks okay - 900 ohms between the two tabs and no continuity between the others
*TPS continuity checks okay at idle and full throttle positions, clicks coming off idle and operates VVT solenoid at full throttle
*CTS tests okay - at 50 degrees F it reads 4050 ohms
*TTS reads 50 ohms at 50 degrees F, but the CSI sprays well so I think it should be replaced soon but is not my problem
*CSI sprays LOTS of fuel when I turn the engine over (I removed it to check)
*AAV was filthy and sticky, but I cleaned it up and it's opening looks the same as the Veloce at 50 degrees (shows 25% open). I put it in the freezer and it opens 70% then gets stuck open (frozen water from washing?). I bypassed it with an open hose and the car still does the start/stall thing. I think it should be replaced soon, but looks the same as the Veloce that runs.
*All 4 injectors have 2 ohms resistance and 11.5 V when the ignition is on
*Air Flow Meter looks okay. with proper resistance values. I took the one off the Veloce and the Grad still does not run
*Altitude compensator is okay - I'm at 1000 feet above sea level and the readings between tabs 2&3 is 2200 ohms. The reading between 1&2 is 1800 ohms
*I kept the car running for about 15 seconds by continuously spraying starting fluid in the intake.
*All 4 plugs were fairly black. Not covered in crud nor corroded, but the car was definitely running rich. New Champions are installed now and they fire like they should
*Fuel filter is not blocked nor old
*No other problems I'm aware of, but the care does not run so we'll see.
*Oh, and the most important - I have the black paint and black interior. I know, I know... the Red ones go faster, but build what ya got.
Please guys and gals, what is wrong with my Graduate? If the CSI works can the fuel pressure still be a problem? How can I further test the injectors without removing them? Can I just bypass any of this stuff?
Thank you for your help!
Adam