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Discussion Starter #1
What do you folks do for key blanks? My local ace is great at cutting keys I brought them a blank for my 964 and they cut it perfectly. Is there an easy way to get blanks for the ignition? All I have is one key the car came with and its marked ‘fiat’.
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That's a good outfit. I've used them with success.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
They say they’ve suspended operations for the moment. If I dont come upon an original blank I suppose Ill just but another to match the current that works which is stamped F74t. I see them on ebay etc for a few bucks.
 

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The key with the cloverleaf is for a door lock. There are various groove profiles, the 8 would be the first digit of the code and for a specific profile. The original ignition key for a 2000 GTV is octogonal, has a cloverleaf as well, and the head is black plastic. Keys4classics can do one for you with a reproduction blank.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks guys. I found two F74t blanks similar to mine on ebay for $8, I'll start there. All my door/trunk locks are new so I have new SAFE brand keys for them.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
I received the blanks and they look good I took them to my local ace who have cut some Porsche keys for me in the past and done an excellent job. An older guy took the key and first cut it on the reverse side. I excused this as an honest mistake they got someone else who cut the second of my blanks on the correct side. I went out to the car the new key fit into the ignition but did not turn I did not force at all. I then went back to the original key and found it extremely difficult to get it to turn. I frankly don’t know if something happened to the cylinder or the original key but it’s now got me wondering if I can improve this by opening up the switch and cleaning it or if the "information" of the original key is so far gone that my "working" key which is a copy can't produce a new key and is itself now suspect.
 

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It's not so hard to replace the lock... once you remove the little screw that holds it in place. To access it, if you have a steering box with a u-joint, you have to remove the steering column shroud then remove the instrument pod to have easy access to the two bolts that hold the column in place. Remove those two bolts, noting the positions of any washers/spacers that line up the column. You can now move the column down and access the screw on top of the ignition/steering lock that holds it in place. It's a screw with a conical "tamper proof" head. I don't know what they used to install it. Once I get there, I cut a slot in it with a Dremel and cutting disc, you now have a normal slotted screw. The lock will slide out.

If you have a steering box with a fixed column, I don't know how much you can get away with without loosening the box from the body.

Maybe the new key carried some debris into the lock. I would work some light lubricant in it and fiddle the old key in and out.
 
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