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I always say whenever people are searching for the "true" paint code, that your car will NOT end up in the shade you picture the color to be. The reason- 50 year old urethane or lacquer "formulas" don't translate directly to modern low VOC acrylic-urethanes. There isn't someone in the back room of BASF or PPG mixing paint who really cares if it looks quite like a 50-year old Alfa chart. And the charts were not good. Yes, I'm making a lot of generalizations, but not without experience. The alternatives? Either find a modern car with a color you thinks looks good and source that paint, or for accuracy-find a car with a vintage ORIGINAL paint job, and have someone professionally color match it. And I don't mean with a paint scanner, because, in my experience they don't work either. But they sound nice. Good luck!
 

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The scanners give a good starting point and now some will even measure flake size. You should however do a spray-out and make sure the color is what you want. I consulted on a color for a vintage Italian car and to get the small metallic look of that era, we changed out the fine aluminum for a mica pearl and then sprayed 3x3 panels with a curve in the panel to see if the color had the right flop. The color looked great and the car did great in the show circuit. If it was next to a survivor it probably would look a little modern, but it still looked fantastic

The reality is that there is no money in color development for the paint companies on low use paint codes. For example, there are over 15 alternates for Toyota 1G3, a popular gunmetal gray. The best we can do is find someone willing to put in the time and bench match the color. If use want to spend the money you can get there.
 
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