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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm in the process of replacing the rear hatch rocker switch mounted on the console of my 1970 Junior Z. Unfortunately I don't have a wiring diagram of the car and the wiring has previously been modified. The rocker switch I have removed has six terminals (wire colors black/black/green/green-black/brown/pink) with the two terminals with black wires "jumpered" together. The replacement switch I recently received from OK parts in Germany has four terminals. I've determined that the green-black & brown wires supply power.

Can anyone tell me the correct wiring configuration for this switch (i.e. 4, 6 terminals, correct orientation, etc.) and or supply me with a copy of the wiring schematic relating to this switch?

-John
 

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Junior Z wiring

Text Line Diagram Font Design




Attached are the switch and motor connections extracted from the 1600 Junior Z wiring diagram. Unfortunately I can't attach the whole diagram because it is too big but I hope this helps.
 

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John,
My JrZ was made in '70 so it's a 1300 just like yours. I had the hatch switch out a few years ago and made note of the wire colors. I finally found it and it indicates five wire colors and six connections just as you note. Sorry, but it looks like you'll need all 6 pins.
 

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Jr Z Rear Hatch Rocker Switch Wiring

When you get it all done and the motor still runs real slow, not to worry, that's what it does. I bought a new motor as mine was running so slow, I thought it was bad. The new one ran just as slow. For what its worth.
 

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If you want to speed-up the motor, you have to change the wiring.
The power comes form the battery and goes to the rear, there it splits up and goes through two micro switches, comes back to the main switch in the center console (where you choose up or down). Then it goes through the motor and comes back again to the main switch to make earth.
The problem is in the micro switches which are limited to 0,2Amp and the total wire length. These rob the motor form all it's power.
I've put 4 relays in the back and used the original wires to activate them. No threads were cut, only some pieces were added to connect the relays so the wiring loom is still original.
Now it takes about half the time to open and close and the first time I closed the hatch the micro switches weren't adjusted correctly I saw the whole motor mount move.
Now when I close the hatch I hear a click from the switch an relays and it's closed it used to be that the motor just slowly died when it came to the closed position but was never completely shut just a bit higher than the rest of the body.
 

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Hey John,

It's been a few years since you posted this. I'm curious to know what rocker switch it was that you bought from OKP. They have a couple different ones - there's a power window rocker from a Montreal:

OKP Parts & Engineering GmbH, die Ersatzteil Spezialisten für klassische Alfa Romeo und Ferrari - 607 16 970 60716970 AR40016034 105646504600 AR 40016034 Montreal / Ferrari / ISO Schalter Fensterheber Montreal AR 40 016 034

or this one from a late Spider:
OKP Parts & Engineering GmbH, die Ersatzteil Spezialisten für klassische Alfa Romeo und Ferrari - 60735821 1131065046 Nummer von VHB Fensterheber Fensterheberschalter Schalter window switch AR 40 016 050 AR 40016050 AR40016050 OKP Alfa Romeo Ferrari

There's also this one:
FERRARI DINO 308 GT4- QV ELECTRIC WINDOW SWITCH: eBay Motors (item 230510829462 end time Sep-11-10 07:48:27 PDT)

Did they have an "original" style rocker switch specifically for a Junior Z? I need a replacement (don't have the original).

I noticed Pat Garrett's post here. He told me this story (and I still have the original motor) when I bought the car from him. Cool guy.

Thanks,
Brian
 

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Ask don515jz

I'm in the process of replacing the rear hatch rocker switch mounted on the console of my 1970 Junior Z. Unfortunately I don't have a wiring diagram of the car and the wiring has previously been modified. The rocker switch I have removed has six terminals (wire colors black/black/green/green-black/brown/pink) with the two terminals with black wires "jumpered" together. The replacement switch I recently received from OK parts in Germany has four terminals. I've determined that the green-black & brown wires supply power.

Can anyone tell me the correct wiring configuration for this switch (i.e. 4, 6 terminals, correct orientation, etc.) and or supply me with a copy of the wiring schematic relating to this switch?

-John
Hello John,

Ask don515jz. I think he tackled this problem too.

Ciao, Olaf
 

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For the rear hatch you need this switch, it has 5 pins. I just pulled it out of the dash.



The photo has the switch up-side-down because I wanted to see if I could get the make of the switch in the photo.

I believe it is the same switch they used in a Renault Fuego for the electric windows. This doesn't help you much because the never crossed the Atlantic and on this side of the Atlantic those cars have recycled themselves.

As for the wiring diagram I made two drawings, one how Alfa made it and how I changed it with some relays.
The lines are a bit thin perhapes one day I'll change them but for now that's all I have.
Original


Improved

The colour codes are in Dutch.:D

BN = Brown
RD/ZT = Red/Black
GN/ZT = Green/Black
RE = Pink
GN = Green
BW = Blue
GL = Yellow

The power comes from the Red/Black lead. It splits and feeds the two micro switches (0,5Amp max!!)
From there the 2 leads brown and green/black go to the switch. One is to open the hatch, the other to close it.
With the switch you decide which side of the motor gets the + and -.
The motor is isolated and if you reverse the power, you reverse the rotation.
Al in al the power 4x goes back and forth between the motor and switch and with the old wiring you lose a lot of power.
When you add the relays the hatch opens and closes faster and has the power to pull itself into the rubber seal. Before the relays were installed the motor just stopped before the lower micro switch was reached.

Hope this helps.

Don
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Rocker Switch Wiring

Brian,

Thanks for reviving this old post. I've been busy with other things and just have not gotten around to fixing the "switch" issue. Having a correct wiring diagram would be great start.

I could not get the switch from OK parts (four pin type) to work. I recently acquired the "montreal" power window switch and I'm also having trouble with it. The Montreal switch has six pins and I've tried a couple of configurations without success (each configuration results in a blown fuse and their is 36 possibilities?). The Montreal switch is nice looking however, it is larger than the original switch so at best you would have to open the console opening to fit it.

Don,

Thanks for the wiring diagram and info; but I still need a switch. I have procrastinated on this because I was hoping to come across a new or reproduction switch sooner or later (it's now much later.............).

In reality I still have the original switch and electrically it works (or at least it did when I removed it) but its just not "pretty" and doesn't fit very well in the opening. I've attached photos of it.

I have had the switch removed for such a long time that I've forgotten the wiring configuration of it. Can anyone tell me what color wire goes to which pin on the back (I originally marked them for reassembly but most of the marks are now gone!)? The pins are identified with the following letters: H U L D T blank (no letter for one of the pins) -John
 

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NEW window switches

I've been looking for info on this switch for a while now and I think I've finally found a source for new ones:

The OEM part number is listed as:
7700 676 698

I've found a few manufacturers - all of which seem to be in China. Here's an example:
Window lift Switch-yj.12-3131 Images, Photos, Gallery on Gasgoo.com

So, anyone have any ideas how we could order these? I was thinking that I would want 3-4 switches - I have no idea what the quality is and it would make sense to get a bunch just in case. Not to mention, I'm expecting we would have to order in bulk. Maybe there are some Fuego owners out there who want them, too ;)

cheers,
Brian
 

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I'm in. I could use 3 of them as I think they are similar to the Fiat Dino switches (which I may need if I put electric windows in my spider)
 

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Did not realize it is such a big deal. One of the brackets on my original switch broke a few years back and my mechanic simply replaced the switch with some item that looked close enough within a few hours. If it would be helpful, I can ask what it is.

Mike
 

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I suppose it's not such a huge deal, but I figure if I can find one that's really close and not that expensive, what the heck.

The closest I'd found thus far is this:
Fensterheberschalter Spider USA + Alfetta GTV - OKP Parts & Engineering GmbH, die Ersatzteil Spezialisten für klassische Alfa Romeo und Ferrari

You'll notice that the surround is black not silver - a little bit different. The arrows are not solid color - just white outlines - that seems to be correct...

The switch in my car is really awful - looks like it was for a riding lawn mower or something...

B
 

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Hmm. Are there any numbers on these switches? I'm pretty sure I have a couple that look identical from the front, but I haven't noted the number of contacts.
 

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Nothing other than that OEM part number.

Can you post some photos of the switches you've got?
 

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I was hoping there was a simple way to rewire the switch but I looks harder than that with new relays etc. Does anyone have something for us wiring idiots?
Morgan
 

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Hello, I know this is an oldish thread but we hope someone can help us.
My Italian husband has owned his Zagato for more than 30 years. Last week we drove it from Italy to England where we are living at the moment and the rear hatch motor stopped working
We have read the thread on this forum about various solutions and would like to hear an update from anyone who has solved this issue please.
We are particularly interested to know exactly what part to order
Many thanks
Suzi
 

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I would suggest you check to make sure you are getting power to the motor to narrow down where the problem is. If it is the motor perhaps you can get it rebuilt. There is a Lancia specialist in Norwich. They may be able to help as the Lancia Zagato had the same motor for the rear window.

Where are you staying in England? I'm here in the UK for a week now.
 

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Thanks Alfiat, very useful to know. we are between Retford and Doncaster, near Bawtry. Have you made this repair yourself?
Suzi
 
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