Nothing structural???
I've decided to sell her
well i just got back into the Alfa game this past month, and I love it, but unfortunately the rust has got me thinking and I've decided to sell my car in order to get another no-rust Spider. I think I'm gonna sell it for about 1800 since the car is a good parts car and/or can be restored. the problem for me is that I cannot be in the restoration game anymore. Do you think that I can get what I'm thinking the car's worth since it's running beautifully, and it's a good daily driver/project? And no I will not part it since I really, really don't have the room or time for it.
The problem is that the outer rockers are effed, the water channels next to the TOP Hinges are rusted, and so are the floor pans, but nothing structural. It way too much for me to deal with right now, and I'd rather get a car with no or very little rust.
The problem is that the outer rockers are effed, the water channels next to the TOP Hinges are rusted, and so are the floor pans, but nothing structural. It way too much for me to deal with right now, and I'd rather get a car with no or very little rust.
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Brewtech:
The rust you describe is most certainly structural
Getting $1,800 for the car may be tough - most other buyers are going to consider it the same way that you do: a nice collection of parts, but not worth repairing. Sure, it could be fixed, but the cost would exceed the expense of simply buying a car with less rust. Your decision to replace it with a more rust-free car is going to be shared by every other Alfisti. And, your location here in S. Calif. works against you - prospective buyers can find better alternatives locally.
How did a 1974 model Alfa end up with a 1750cc engine? Most buyers would consider that to be a "ding" as well, though the engine by itself does have value.
My advice would be to either 1) drive it as is - it probably won't break in half for awhile, 2) sell it for whatever you can get - who knows, perhaps some masochist will pay $1,800, or 3) part it out - you will certainly get > $1,800 after every little bit gets listed on ebay. Of course, option #3 will take more time than repairing all of the rust, but it won't cost you anything except the time.
Sorry to be the bearer of bad news!
The rust you describe is most certainly structural
Getting $1,800 for the car may be tough - most other buyers are going to consider it the same way that you do: a nice collection of parts, but not worth repairing. Sure, it could be fixed, but the cost would exceed the expense of simply buying a car with less rust. Your decision to replace it with a more rust-free car is going to be shared by every other Alfisti. And, your location here in S. Calif. works against you - prospective buyers can find better alternatives locally.
How did a 1974 model Alfa end up with a 1750cc engine? Most buyers would consider that to be a "ding" as well, though the engine by itself does have value.
My advice would be to either 1) drive it as is - it probably won't break in half for awhile, 2) sell it for whatever you can get - who knows, perhaps some masochist will pay $1,800, or 3) part it out - you will certainly get > $1,800 after every little bit gets listed on ebay. Of course, option #3 will take more time than repairing all of the rust, but it won't cost you anything except the time.
Sorry to be the bearer of bad news!
#4 keep this one, and buy the rust free one, rusted one will be your parts car, that will save you money and time in longer run....
I do like this option. I stand corrected on the STRUCTURAL bit.#4 keep this one, and buy the rust free one, rusted one will be your parts car, that will save you money and time in longer run....
In regards, to the engine being a 1750. it came like that from the PO. no clue from there. I got the car for free and after driving it A LOT, I'm hooked on getting a more original car.
i bought this car for 1000$ and am happy with it.
the rust is pretty superficial.
brew is incorrect. its a 2000. it just has a 1750's airbox on it from an alfetta.
it runs great and all the chrome is good and strong. (not bad for a second spider to work on when you have a clean one to show off til its done)
to be honest, i wanted this to be my 'learn to weld and filler and paint project' so i dont screw it up on my 1990.
and besides, the rough exterior has character. at least to somebody like me with a usually sleek shiny spider.
the rust is pretty superficial.
brew is incorrect. its a 2000. it just has a 1750's airbox on it from an alfetta.
it runs great and all the chrome is good and strong. (not bad for a second spider to work on when you have a clean one to show off til its done)
to be honest, i wanted this to be my 'learn to weld and filler and paint project' so i dont screw it up on my 1990.
and besides, the rough exterior has character. at least to somebody like me with a usually sleek shiny spider.
I'm glad that you like the car man! As for me I'm still looking. I think I'm going to be very picky for my daily. I'm glad it's a 2.0, parts are more readily available I believe. Besides, I think the car is a good place to learn some things you wouldn't want to learn on an original car. have fun cutting and welding. It was cool hanging with you
and if you will do very very bad with welding.... make a locost from it.!!
i stand corrected. after further analysis, it is indeed a 1750. but from what year i wonder??
and i swear, without emissions, this engine is more powerful than my 10:1 compression motronic spider. its so fun to drive.
changed the fluids in engine and tranny last night along with SPICA logic oil. gearbox shifts like butter now. told ya! heh.
wouldnt the engine have to be from a 1971 to be 1750cc? anyone know?
and i swear, without emissions, this engine is more powerful than my 10:1 compression motronic spider. its so fun to drive.
changed the fluids in engine and tranny last night along with SPICA logic oil. gearbox shifts like butter now. told ya! heh.
wouldnt the engine have to be from a 1971 to be 1750cc? anyone know?
It could be from a '69, which was the first year for the SPICA and second year for the 1750 engine. Both the '69 and '71 are faster than the Motronic configuration. Since it is noticeable to you, I would suspect a '69, because the '69 had the more aggressive cam profile and produced 132 bhp. That's the fastest configuration of any stock Spider. After '69 the cams were changed. (There were no Spiders imported to the U.S. in 1968, and all 1968 Spiders had the 1750 engine with Webers. There were also no Spiders imported to the U.S. in 1970, when Alfa was changing the Spider body style from the roundtail to the Kamm tail.)wouldnt the engine have to be from a 1971 to be 1750cc? anyone know?
Best regards,
Yes you did tell me about using Spirax in the gearbox. I'm glad the car is working out for you's and your girl. I told ya it was a 1750. heh! I kid you not that car felt like a freakin motorcycle, to me at least. How do you like those gauges at night, although they are dim, and inaccurate?i stand corrected. after further analysis, it is indeed a 1750. but from what year i wonder??
and i swear, without emissions, this engine is more powerful than my 10:1 compression motronic spider. its so fun to drive.
changed the fluids in engine and tranny last night along with SPICA logic oil. gearbox shifts like butter now. told ya! heh.
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