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Discussion Starter #1
Good evening everyone!
My car has developed a mild gremlin. Yesterday I went to start the car, and something under the dash started buzzing and the starter wouldn't engage. I checked battery voltage, 13v. Gave it another crank, same buzzing but after turning the key and holding it for a few moments it started turning over as normal.
I drove the car around and went on with my day, didnt happen again.

Today, same thing. The "fasten seat belt" light flashes when the buzzer engages. I got up under the dash and the buzzer with a white wire and pink wires is the one that is engaging, the red and black wired buzzer does not engage.

In the two years I've owned this car no buzzer has ever worked and neither has the seat belt light. The seat belt roller is plugged in and the two wires under the seat are connected, but no light.

This buzzing condition was not altered by me buckling or unbuckling the seat belt.

I was up under the dash the other day replacing the turn signal relay, I didnt alter any wires because I had already put a new universal relay on the car right after buying it. I simply unplugged the old and plugged in the new.

I spoke to a friend and he mentioned that maybe the ignition switch is beginning to give way. I looked through my wiring diagram but I could not figure out a path to trace. The buzzer should buzz when the key is turned I assumed? Its the starter not engaging when the buzzer engages that has me questioning. Yesterday after driving the car, it started right up as normal-no lag, no buzz.
 

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Could it be that the door switch is not showing that the door is closed?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I tried that, it is possible sure. The upper pin on the drivers door is jammed shut, the lower pin moves freely. I supposed that doesn't mean the inside of it is working though.
I tried door closed, and pressing the pin in myself. No change
 

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Do you have a copy of PapaJam's (Jim Neill - RIP) color coded wire diagrams for your Spider? If not let me know - I will send you a copy via a 'Conversation' (aka Private Message). It will make tracing the flow of Alfa electrons much easier. According to the wire diagram I have, the one with the pink & white wires is the 'put your seat belt on' buzzer and the one with the red/black wires is the 'hey dummy, you left the key in' buzzer. I do not know if/how not starting might be involved. Perhaps coincidence?

...after turning the key and holding it for a few moments it started turning over as normal.
That does sound like an ignition switch on its way out. The internal electrical contacts become unable to pass the electrons needed to activate the starter solenoid. Adding a relay so that the switch only needs to trigger the relay can make the switch last indefinitely (and the rely can easily handle the flow of electricity needed to activate the starter).
 

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1974 is the key: The year of the infamous seat belt interlock. The only safety regulation that was ever revoked retroactively by NHTSA.

The key buzzer is a separate microswitch in the lock and is completely independent of the other switch functions.

You car was built with a module hidden under the extreme right of the dash that reads if the seats are occupied and if the seatbelts are fastened. If not, it will not transfer the starter command to a starter relay that was factory installed near the coil. There was a service bulletin that showed how to cancel the interlock. It simply shows how to take the wire bringing the starter signal to the module, and tying it to the wire bringing the signal from the module to the relay. The rest becomes useless. These things are known to act up. I have a 1974 GTV, as how I know.

A wiring diagram is necessary.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yes I have a wiring diagram.
The seat belt interlock did come to mind, but I wasn’t sure if these were known to have an issue.
where can I see that wire 10 and 13 were tied in together ? Cause it wasn’t done at the box itself.
The car starts with the door open and no one in the car, so I don’t think the system is still active
 

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Somebody may have run a new wire from the ignition switch to the relay, or something similar. Locate the relay and the signal wire. Next time the car doesn't start, feed a 12 volt source to the relay terminal and see what happens.

It may be something else, but the car being a 1974 this should not be overlooked.

I thought the system had been disabled on my car. It had at some point, but somebody had reconnected the wires to make it functional. The seats had been recovered and the bum sensors were not connected, and new safety belts were fitted with no detectors. The wires had been left under the carpets. This means with no occupants detected in either seat, the system lets the starter work.

I had driven the car to work and it had started to rain at some point. When I tried to leave at the end of the day, the starter would not operate. I jumped a 12 volt source to the relay as suggested above and it started. When I got home, I found out the system was active. Some water had seeped in, made the carpets wet and made contact between the neglected wires, making the system believe one seat at least was occupied.

Otherwise, I'm starting to think the key in switch buzzer coming on and off may have something to do with mechanical wear in the switch that also affects starting.
 

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Aaron,

I sent them to you in a PM.

But here they are.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thank you for that!

I am leaning towards the ignition switch. Today it bit the dust, whatever the faulty part is.
I left home, it started up, no buzz. Went to come home, all buzz no crank no matter what I tried. Bump started it and got it home.
Next im going to have to get at it with my VOM and see what I can find out. Because either the ignition switch has bit the dust or something else is faulty or loose.
 

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Here is the easy way to figure out if its the starter or switch.

Turn the key to on. Watch the alternator light closely. Turn the key to start. If the light dims its the starter. If it doesn't dim its the switch.

You can also have someone hold the key to start. Then hit the solenoid with a hammer or lug wrench. If it starts its the solenoid sticking.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Went to work on it today, started right up no questions asked. I drove it around a while, brought it home. Shut it off, waited a minute, cranked right up. Took it to Oreilly and they checked my battery and starter, they said they both checked out clear.
I took a picture of the wiring to my ign. switch. The green wire is and has been disconnected, only the brown red and black wire are connected. The black is the ground, and the brown has 12v when the key is turned. The wiring diagram has the green wire going from the switch to the coil, my green wire is disconnected on the switch end and I cannot find it on the coil end.

I could not replicate the no start today, but after leaving Oreilly I went ahead and put in a new Bosch starter relay because the old one was original or close to it.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Here is the back of the switch
 

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