After changing front left caliper, then brake line, the abs system seems to work when I brake. Just before coming to a complete stop I can feel movement in the brake pedal and hear a funny noise. I believe the abs is actuating. I have bled the system a dozen times with the key on and off. I have also bled the right rear brake as I have read that these two are connected. Any ideas you have on this problem is appreciated.
Is it air in the brakes?
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Probably, I have same issue on my 164L maybe today is the day to try and bled them again with my wife's help.
Ok rebled all 4 wheels with engine on and wife assisting with the pedal work. Just test drove it and pedal feels higher more like my non-ABS 164B now.
When I did rears I jacked up car then jacked up both rear struts to to keep brake valve in rear cross member open to fluid flow.
Got some air out of R/F and L/R.
Yes I did use power bleeder when I originally bled brakes solo but I think in my case I didn't get all the air out of ABS pump as I did not have battery power turn on.
Having my wife use engine power also to work booster gave a nice finishing touch.
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Have you guys found that one of the plungers (the lower one) in the rear proportioning valve is usually stuck from corrosion due to debris/water retained by the rubber boot - which prevents proper fluid flow to one rear brake and inversely affects the strength of the opposite front brake... I've had that happen on three different cars now.
The pleasant thing is that it can be cured with no need for new parts - just de-rust the plungers and the housing, and reassemble - the seals must go back in the right way around (I found that out the hard way) but the pistons/bores are usually in fine condition. It's just the operating side that seizes up, not the valve side.
-Alex
The pleasant thing is that it can be cured with no need for new parts - just de-rust the plungers and the housing, and reassemble - the seals must go back in the right way around (I found that out the hard way) but the pistons/bores are usually in fine condition. It's just the operating side that seizes up, not the valve side.
-Alex
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I would suggest carefully cleaning the toothed ring on the front left CV joint - perhaps at slow speeds the system is 'tricked' into thinking the wheel is locked because a few of the teeth are bridged by metallic debris. Use a toothbrush and brake cleaner and ideally take the sensor out to clean its tip. My sensors come out easily enough but if you live in a 'rust' area, might be more of a struggle...
-Alex
Bled other two brakes, too. Also you know you have to have rear struts compress like car sitting on wheels to keep brake valve in rear crossmember open to fluid flow.
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