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1974 Alfa Romeo S2 Iniezione
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Morning everyone!

I was recently gifted this 1974 Alfa Romeo S2 Iniezione by a good friend.

Avid car guy and experienced wrencher, but never have I ever owned an Italian car, or a car this old (oldest was a 1986 BMW 325es). I have perused this forum for a week or so now and have learned a lot, but I still am blank on a lot of things.

For being 46 years old this car is a beauty to drive. Very reliable thus far, and not too uncomfortable either. This is my first time engaging in top down driving and it is very addicting.

I have loads of maintenance planned right at the outset and I have a few questions from more experienced forum members.

Here are a couple pictures of the car:

Alfa Romeo - 5-12-20 by Michael Rickerd, on Flickr

Alfa Romeo - 5-12-20 by Michael Rickerd, on Flickr

The rear end has 'Iniezione' pinned into the bodywork. What does this mean exactly?

Found this in the engine bay:

Alfa Photos by Michael Rickerd, on Flickr

What engine is in this car? What are some of it's basic stats? The carbs say 'Weber' on them.

Alfa Photos by Michael Rickerd, on Flickr

What do the levers in the cabin do? I found the turn signals and the windshield wipers, but that is about it. One lever to the left of the shifter says 'Def' on it, I am assuming this means Defrost (i.e. air is directed to blow out of the upper dash vents). I see what appears to be an aftermarket/custom silver swivel thing next to a red push button just to the left of the 'Hazard' light. What does this red button do?

Alfa Photos by Michael Rickerd, on Flickr

I will be starting by tracking down the fuel smell by investigating the check valve in the trunk area. Hopefully it is an easy fix. I'll then jack the car up and inspect fuel and brake lines for damage/rust/wear. I'll check diff and trans fluids (all fluids actually). I'll then test/shake/manhandle the suspension to determine what bushings need to be replaced. I have to track down and fix a lone oil leak (only fluid leak on the whole car, but it does leak after every drive) to avoid staining my garage. Finally, I'll remove the non-functioning radio to install a new one, along with new speakers and tweeters. Does the car only have the two door speakers and tweeters? Nice, loud, crisp music would definitely lend itself to top down cruising, so if anyone has installed a decent sound system please let me know. Other than that, is there anything else I should look out for for an initial inspection?

Additional questions:

1) The gauges are all very wobbly and inaccurate. Is this normal? Or do I need to track down and tighten/clean some grounds?

2) What does the black textured bump, just above my left foot in the drivers foot area do?

3) My tach never rests at zero rpm's. Is this normal? If not, what should I look for?

4) The drivers side window works flawlessly both up and down. The passenger side window only works in the downward direction, and in the upward direction for the first 15-20% of rolling up. After that it gets really tight and the window has to be manually lifted the rest of the way. It stays in place whenever it is manually raised up. Anyone know what's going on here?

I'll probably have more questions as I go, so bear with this newb.

Thanks for looking!

- Mike
 

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welcome to the madhouse.
Inezione means 'injection'. Your 2 Liter, hemi motor originally came with mechanical fuel injection. It has been removed and replaced by two weber sidedraft carbs. The motor is a 2L, double over head cam, with one intake and exhaust valve per cylinder, pushed by the camshaft lobes in a Overhead design. You might be in a 125 Hp range with your setup, could be more or less by 10-15% or so. Its a reliable design, with some idiosyncacies, but easy to work on and repair. Get the brooklands book and Pat Bradons Alfa Bible and read up! I think you will like open motoring, but a radio is not a useful thing unless you are cruising at 20 mph.

the silver swivel thing looks like a DIY attempt to hold the hazards switch in the OFF (in) position. Well known failure . Black bump is the windshield washer pump. Gauges should not be all wobbly, theres some cleanup work to be done. Look for a peg that the speedo needle sits on near 10 mph.
As I say, welcome to the jungle. Theres some cool cats living in here
 

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Morning everyone!

I was recently gifted this 1974 Alfa Romeo S2 Iniezione by a good friend.

Avid car guy and experienced wrencher, but never have I ever owned an Italian car, or a car this old (oldest was a 1986 BMW 325es). I have perused this forum for a week or so now and have learned a lot, but I still am blank on a lot of things.

For being 46 years old this car is a beauty to drive. Very reliable thus far, and not too uncomfortable either. This is my first time engaging in top down driving and it is very addicting.

I have loads of maintenance planned right at the outset and I have a few questions from more experienced forum members.

Here are a couple pictures of the car:

Alfa Romeo - 5-12-20 by Michael Rickerd, on Flickr

Alfa Romeo - 5-12-20 by Michael Rickerd, on Flickr

The rear end has 'Iniezione' pinned into the bodywork. What does this mean exactly?

Found this in the engine bay:

Alfa Photos by Michael Rickerd, on Flickr

What engine is in this car? What are some of it's basic stats? The carbs say 'Weber' on them.

Alfa Photos by Michael Rickerd, on Flickr

What do the levers in the cabin do? I found the turn signals and the windshield wipers, but that is about it. One lever to the left of the shifter says 'Def' on it, I am assuming this means Defrost (i.e. air is directed to blow out of the upper dash vents). I see what appears to be an aftermarket/custom silver swivel thing next to a red push button just to the left of the 'Hazard' light. What does this red button do?

Alfa Photos by Michael Rickerd, on Flickr

I will be starting by tracking down the fuel smell by investigating the check valve in the trunk area. Hopefully it is an easy fix. I'll then jack the car up and inspect fuel and brake lines for damage/rust/wear. I'll check diff and trans fluids (all fluids actually). I'll then test/shake/manhandle the suspension to determine what bushings need to be replaced. I have to track down and fix a lone oil leak (only fluid leak on the whole car, but it does leak after every drive) to avoid staining my garage. Finally, I'll remove the non-functioning radio to install a new one, along with new speakers and tweeters. Does the car only have the two door speakers and tweeters? Nice, loud, crisp music would definitely lend itself to top down cruising, so if anyone has installed a decent sound system please let me know. Other than that, is there anything else I should look out for for an initial inspection?

Additional questions:

1) The gauges are all very wobbly and inaccurate. Is this normal? Or do I need to track down and tighten/clean some grounds?

2) What does the black textured bump, just above my left foot in the drivers foot area do?

3) My tach never rests at zero rpm's. Is this normal? If not, what should I look for?

4) The drivers side window works flawlessly both up and down. The passenger side window only works in the downward direction, and in the upward direction for the first 15-20% of rolling up. After that it gets really tight and the window has to be manually lifted the rest of the way. It stays in place whenever it is manually raised up. Anyone know what's going on here?

I'll probably have more questions as I go, so bear with this newb.

Thanks for looking!

- Mike
Welcome! Thanks for the photos and the good questions. Looks like a lot of fun.

A couple points. First "Iniezione" is Italian for "injection," as the car originally had a SPICA mechanical fuel-injection system. As you note, it now has Weber carbs, so the "Iniezione" badge is a bit of a misnomer at this point. Second, the engine should be a 2-liter. Earlier U.S. Spiders had 1750 or 1600 engines, but by 74, they had the 2-liter engine.

The levers are for the heat and defroster. Push the left lever up for heat. The lever on the right switches from the vents in the footwells to the dash vents for the defroster. Don't know about the swivel thing.

The fuel gauge is notoriously bouncy because of slosh in the tank. The others should be fairly steady (although oil pressure will vary with engine temperature and RPM).

The button on the floor by the clutch pedal is the pump for the windshield washer fluid.

The tach doesn't go to zero. That's normal.

Could be a couple of issues with the window, but likely the regulator unless one of the frame pieces is bent.
 

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well you did the right thing first off...that was posting photos:)
how come I don't have friends that give me an alfa? dang!
Engine bay tag: it says 1502...in actual fact a 1 is worn off, so it is 11502: that is a type number for a 1972-77 USA alfa spider. The engine would originally have been a spica fuel injected engine (hence the "iniezione" emblem on the rear, thats Italian for injection.
Someone has therefore removed the spica mechanical injection and put twin carbs in place, as these cars would have had in europe (or swopped out the whole engine.....tell us the engine number). Which means your State doesn't have a smog test, otherwise it would fail flat.
edit: I spot the old spica manifold now, so it is a conversion, not an engine swop. The euro intake is different

black bump: üpress that with your foot and the screen washer operates and the wipers do a sweep (if it works)
tach has a pin where it rests against, not at zero. have a closer look

wobbly gauges: not normal, the gas gauge can wobble, the others should be pretty much stable (not like a modern car, but decent)

the levers: they are the heater levers, one directs air up middle or down the other is the temperature hot>cold

that red button: hazard lights. The odd chrome thing next to it, not original...ask your friend.

your window is run by a rube goldberg cable set up.....don't force it because if the cable snaps you are in for work!....take off the door card and investigate, could be the cable has come off a runner.

your wheels are also not alfa romeo, but look like Rotas....not a bad wheel.

Oh and welcome to BB:)
best single make car community out there
 

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1974 Alfa Romeo S2 Iniezione
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Discussion Starter #5
welcome to the madhouse.
Inezione means 'injection'. Your 2 Liter, hemi motor originally came with mechanical fuel injection. It has been removed and replaced by two weber sidedraft carbs. The motor is a 2L, double over head cam, with one intake and exhaust valve per cylinder, pushed by the camshaft lobes in a Overhead design. You might be in a 125 Hp range with your setup, could be more or less by 10-15% or so. Its a reliable design, with some idiosyncacies, but easy to work on and repair. Get the brooklands book and Pat Bradons Alfa Bible and read up! I think you will like open motoring, but a radio is not a useful thing unless you are cruising at 20 mph.

the silver swivel thing looks like a DIY attempt to hold the hazards switch in the OFF (in) position. Well known failure . Black bump is the windshield washer pump. Gauges should not be all wobbly, theres some cleanup work to be done. Look for a peg that the speedo needle sits on near 10 mph.
As I say, welcome to the jungle. Theres some cool cats living in here
goats, thank you for the reply and the detailed information about the 2L engine.

I will look into the books you mentioned!

Since the car was switched to carbs, is the small black lever at the base of the center console on the drivers side the choke? The car starts beautifully when warm, seriously faster than even my 2016 Tacoma, but has s rough time starting when cold unless you give it gas.
 

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PS if there was one piece of advise I would give you, its get a sheet of cardboard and lay it under the car in the garage. You will never permanently achieve a leak-free alfa motor. The all aluminum design expands and contracts and leaks happen over time. You kind of have to learn to live with it to some degree ---
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Welcome! Thanks for the photos and the good questions. Looks like a lot of fun.

A couple points. First "Iniezione" is Italian for "injection," as the car originally had a SPICA mechanical fuel-injection system. As you note, it now has Weber carbs, so the "Iniezione" badge is a bit of a misnomer at this point. Second, the engine should be a 2-liter. Earlier U.S. Spiders had 1750 or 1600 engines, but by 74, they had the 2-liter engine.

The levers are for the heat and defroster. Push the left lever up for heat. The lever on the right switches from the vents in the footwells to the dash vents for the defroster. Don't know about the swivel thing.

The fuel gauge is notoriously bouncy because of slosh in the tank. The others should be fairly steady (although oil pressure will vary with engine temperature and RPM).

The button on the floor by the clutch pedal is the pump for the windshield washer fluid.

The tach doesn't go to zero. That's normal.

Could be a couple of issues with the window, but likely the regulator unless one of the frame pieces is bent.
Thanks sloboy89! Good to know about the 2L engine.

Sounds good about the levers. Is it normal for the transmission tunnel to get really hot while driving? I did an ~80 mile drive down the 89A to Sedona and by the time I was headed back up the switchbacks my right foot was very, very warm! The levers were in 'heat' and 'def' positions.

Gotcha on the fuel tank gauge instability. I have dealt with this before.

The windows are hand-crank, so I will remove the door card and investigate. Do you know of a good writeup for door card removal? Or is it intuitive?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
PS if there was one piece of advise I would give you, its get a sheet of cardboard and lay it under the car in the garage. You will never permanently achieve a leak-free alfa motor. The all aluminum design expands and contracts and leaks happen over time. You kind of have to learn to live with it to some degree ---
I have an old piece of carpet now. That's a bit depressing to hear, but to be expected. I still want to attempt to slow the leak, as the resulting mark after each drive is on the order of 3-4 inches in diameter, which seems excessive.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
well you did the right thing first off...that was posting photos:)
how come I don't have friends that give me an alfa? dang!
Engine bay tag: it says 1502...in actual fact a 1 is worn off, so it is 11502: that is a type number for a 1972-77 USA alfa spider. The engine would originally have been a spica fuel injected engine (hence the "iniezione" emblem on the rear, thats Italian for injection.
Someone has therefore removed the spica mechanical injection and put twin carbs in place, as these cars would have had in europe (or swopped out the whole engine.....tell us the engine number). Which means your State doesn't have a smog test, otherwise it would fail flat.
edit: I spot the old spica manifold now, so it is a conversion, not an engine swop. The euro intake is different

black bump: üpress that with your foot and the screen washer operates and the wipers do a sweep (if it works)
tach has a pin where it rests against, not at zero. have a closer look

wobbly gauges: not normal, the gas gauge can wobble, the others should be pretty much stable (not like a modern car, but decent)

the levers: they are the heater levers, one directs air up middle or down the other is the temperature hot>cold

that red button: hazard lights. The odd chrome thing next to it, not original...ask your friend.

your window is run by a rube goldberg cable set up.....don't force it because if the cable snaps you are in for work!....take off the door card and investigate, could be the cable has come off a runner.

your wheels are also not alfa romeo, but look like Rotas....not a bad wheel.

Oh and welcome to BB:)
best single make car community out there
Been around car forums since 2004 and it's always good when a thread starts with actual photos of a car!

No smog test of any kind in the county that I live in, though other counties in AZ have emissions testing.

Cool, thanks!

Definitely Rota wheels, but I have the original rims (with a cruddy set of tires) tucked away in a storage shed for now.
 

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If you look at the top of the "Spider" forum page, there is a thread called "Spider Technical FAQ Digest." That has a ton of links to common maintenance/repair procedures. I didn't see anything about the manual window system, though. I would recommend getting a Cardisc repair manual. Lots of good info in there.
 

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goats said:
the silver swivel thing looks like a DIY attempt to hold the hazards switch in the OFF (in) position. Well known failure .
Yup. Those hazard switches wear out pretty quickly; the usual "fix" is to wedge a paper clip into them to hold the button in. Since they fail in the "ON" mode, they can drain your battery if it happens when the car is unattended. I would either replace the switch (you can find them on ebay) or epoxy/superglue the button in the "OFF" position. It isn't as if Alfa Romeos ever break down on the road and might need an emergency flasher! :D

Mr E30 said:
The drivers side window works flawlessly both up and down. The passenger side window only works in the downward direction, and in the upward direction for the first 15-20% of rolling up. After that it gets really tight and the window has to be manually lifted the rest of the way. It stays in place whenever it is manually raised up. Anyone know what's going on here?
Probably something simple with the cable mechanism. Take off the door panel, work the crank and it will be obvious. I had a similar symptom on my Duetto last fall. Turned out to be a piece of sheathing that had come loose. The cable has a short sheath where it passes over a corner of the door structure. That had become loose and would jamb on the drum as I cranked the window up (or was it down?). Anyhow, a simple tie wrap fixed my problem.

At worst your cable has become frayed and you will need to replace the cable-drum assembly.
 

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Yup. Those hazard switches wear out pretty quickly; the usual "fix" is to wedge a paper clip into them to hold the button in. Since they fail in the "ON" mode, they can drain your battery if it happens when the car is unattended. I would either replace the switch (you can find them on ebay) or epoxy/superglue the button in the "OFF" position. It isn't as if Alfa Romeos ever break down on the road and might need an emergency flasher! :D



Probably something simple with the cable mechanism. Take off the door panel, work the crank and it will be obvious. I had a similar symptom on my Duetto last fall. Turned out to be a piece of sheathing that had come loose. The cable has a short sheath where it passes over a corner of the door structure. That had become loose and would jamb on the drum as I cranked the window up (or was it down?). Anyhow, a simple tie wrap fixed my problem.

At worst your cable has become frayed and you will need to replace the cable-drum assembly.
Thanks Alfajay. What is a reputable online source to order parts from? Any specific keywords I should look for when ordering from Ebay or the like? Or does S2 Alfa Romeo hazard switch do the trick?
 

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A couple more questions:

1) What is the longer lever behind the turn signal lever?

2) I have a click click click noise coming from my tachometer as it bounces around at idle. It gets louder as I drive faster, and can be heard at 40 mph with the top down. Any ideas?

3) Is there a way to tighten the sun visors? The passenger side visor can stay upright even at 70 mph, but the drivers side drops down into my line of vision as low as 15 mph. I have attempted to tighten the screws to no avail. I have it removed for now but I may work a notecard or something into the visor near the rod to make it tighter.

Thanks again!
 

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What is a reputable online source to order parts from? Any specific keywords I should look for when ordering from Ebay or the like? Or does S2 Alfa Romeo hazard switch do the trick?
There is a thread somewhere here on the BB that lists all of the the Alfa parts vendors. But for the life of me, I can't figure out where it is. Perhaps someone who knows can chime in.

1) What is the longer lever behind the turn signal lever?
High / Low beams

2) I have a click click click noise coming from my tachometer as it bounces around at idle. It gets louder as I drive faster, and can be heard at 40 mph with the top down. Any ideas?
The tack is mechanical, so it might be as simple as the cable requiring lubrication.

3) Is there a way to tighten the sun visors? The passenger side visor can stay upright even at 70 mph, but the drivers side drops down into my line of vision as low as 15 mph. I have attempted to tighten the screws to no avail.
So tightening the screws doesn't work, huh? That might mean that the shaft the visor rotates on has become loose. That shaft goes into the bracket that screws to the windshield. Others have reported pinning these, or otherwise fixing the shaft to the bracket so it can't turn.
 

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There is a thread somewhere here on the BB that lists all of the the Alfa parts vendors. But for the life of me, I can't figure out where it is. Perhaps someone who knows can chime in.

High / Low beams

The tack is mechanical, so it might be as simple as the cable requiring lubrication.

So tightening the screws doesn't work, huh? That might mean that the shaft the visor rotates on has become loose. That shaft goes into the bracket that screws to the windshield. Others have reported pinning these, or otherwise fixing the shaft to the bracket so it can't turn.
I'll take a look around for it if someone doesn't post it first.

Awesome. How do you actually turn the headlights on?

Ok, I will look into doing that. The tach bounces around quite a bit, as does the speedo.

Nope, the two screws on the visor itself get nice and tight, but still the visor flops around. I have removed it from the windshield temporarily by removing the 4 screws and the two clips that hold it up. I will look into pinning the shaft into that small plastic bracket.

I think I figured out the fuel smell even before getting to the check valve.

Alfa Vapor Tank Piece by Michael Rickerd, on Flickr

Does anyone know what this small part being T'eed into the small line is? It was broken off on both ends and laying in the trunk. Also, the two thicker tubes are rotted and split in numerous places (I disconnected them just now). Does anyone know where to source replacements? Or should I just take it to my local Napa and find a suitable replacement? The black tank is the vapor tank, and that is supposed to be empty, yes?

Also, does anyone have a photo of how the jack is mounted in the trunk?

Thanks again for all your help everyone. I am diving into the car now, so expect frequent updates as I work my way around the car.
 

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Welcome, lots of good advise above.
With regards to the heater leavers. Move the one for the heat slowly, the heater valve is a known failure point, is plastic and cable operated from the leaver, being pushy with the leaver can shorten it's life.
The washer pump on the floor. My guess is a better than 50% chance it leaks, so if you pump it with your foot you will be pumping washer fluid on to the floor and your wipers will be going on a dry windshield.
Someone has probably replied already, the headlight stalk is rotate to turn on, two places (park lights only, then low beams). Once in low beam, high beam comes on by moving the stalk down. Flash to pass is by pushing the stalk straight in. If there are no headlight relays installed yet then all the current for the lights are going through the stalk.
Braeden Owners bible and the Cardisc CD are awesome to have. I think the CD also has the owners manuals on them.
Don't use the jack that came with the car ever... You will either dent the side of the car while you wind the car up or the jack point channel the jack finger slides into will crack, or just come detached. Get a scissor jack from a junk yard, a lot of new cars have foam inserts with jack, jack handle and 19mm wrench all as a package.

Cheers,
 

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The small diameter fuel vent line with the T, one end from the black vapour separator, one to the air in check valve (usually on a short bit of hose), one end forward to the engine.
 

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Welcome, lots of good advise above.
With regards to the heater leavers. Move the one for the heat slowly, the heater valve is a known failure point, is plastic and cable operated from the leaver, being pushy with the leaver can shorten it's life.
The washer pump on the floor. My guess is a better than 50% chance it leaks, so if you pump it with your foot you will be pumping washer fluid on to the floor and your wipers will be going on a dry windshield.
Someone has probably replied already, the headlight stalk is rotate to turn on, two places (park lights only, then low beams). Once in low beam, high beam comes on by moving the stalk down. Flash to pass is by pushing the stalk straight in. If there are no headlight relays installed yet then all the current for the lights are going through the stalk.
Braeden Owners bible and the Cardisc CD are awesome to have. I think the CD also has the owners manuals on them.
Don't use the jack that came with the car ever... You will either dent the side of the car while you wind the car up or the jack point channel the jack finger slides into will crack, or just come detached. Get a scissor jack from a junk yard, a lot of new cars have foam inserts with jack, jack handle and 19mm wrench all as a package.

Cheers,
Thanks vintagemilano!

Appreciate the advice on slow engagement. Attempting to not destroy things unnecessarily on this car.

The washer fluid bottle in the passenger side of the engine bay was empty. I filled it 25% of the way to see if it itself leaks.

Ah! Did not know about rotating the lever, but that makes a lot of sense. I will check for the relays (the car has a lot of superfluous wiring throughout).

I have a floor jack that I will use, but I want to keep the car as 'complete' as possible, so I'll stash the jack in the trunk where it belongs.

Thanks!
 

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The small diameter fuel vent line with the T, one end from the black vapour separator, one to the air in check valve (usually on a short bit of hose), one end forward to the engine.
Awesome, so that small piece in the my hand in the picture above is the check valve? Know where I can find one to purchase new?
 
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