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Discussion Starter #1
Short of sending away for a Charles Atlas course (ya gotta have a few years on you to get that one) is there any surefire way to pull the ends of the springs into place?

I believe I could do it if the darn tops of the shocks weren't in the way. Once I get it to the first notch, I'd then take a 9 mm deep socket and pull it to the next one. Being a Quad it has to be in the third notch to open.

It's getting it to that first notch which is the major challenge. I went through the thought process of removing the stepped bolt from the hinge, attaching the rear arms, threading in the bolt with the brass washer on and attaching it to the hinge, installing the large flat washer, nut, then tightening it up without bending the 6 mm end - didn't sound like fun (either).

I just took another look at it and figured if I had a block of wood to the exact size, pulled the hinge end arm up, put the block of wood under it, then I could attach the bolt without any major problems. Just looked at it again...I don't know...

Thinking out loud, but any comments?

Biba
 

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Biba - The problem is leverage since the torsion spring is pretty strong. What I use is a length of sturdy rope. Securely tie the end of the rope onto the end of the spring. Tape it into place so it won't slip off the spring. This way you can step back and get better leverage as well as your body weight to pull the spring into place.
 

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Biba, Top of the shocks is a rubber cover - just pops off and gives you some more room.
Then rope or fingers to pull the end of the torsion bar through the shock access hole, and slide a piece of wood across this to stop the end going back through.
Relax and take a breath- you are half way there. ( drink beer if necessary )
Progressivly tension the bars and add further wood against the bulkhead to secure your gains .
Final placement into the bracket is just deep breath and go for it - but watch your fingers!
A second person on the rope is helpful, but make sure they are pulling at the right angle and it does not slip off .
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for these tips, they're very helpful. I actually wrote a reply earlier but apparently forgot to hit 'Post Quick Reply'. As it turned out I was able to get a neighbor (of my shop) young, strong, guy who was able to pull the ends in place. While I'm sure he wouldn't admit it, it was obviously a strain for him. I'd suggested for him to pull it to the first notch, use my 9 mm long socket to slide on the rod then pull it the rest of the way to the third notch - which he did. $10- (though he didn't ask for it). Such a deal.

Take a look at the upgraded spring retainers. Steel, not iron. Remember this is a very heavy Quad trunk lid.

Biba
 

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Discussion Starter #6
viken69, from my workshop. It was a lot of work hacksawing through the .12" steel plate, drilling four 3/16" holes, inserting stainless steel pop rivets, then drilling out the centers.

It was obvious that this would be a frequent problem area for my client given that the rubber 'lip' on the rear of the trunklid is very heavy. If anything the springs themselves are the next weak spot for this set-up. If my car, I'd remove the rubber lip and fill in the holes - then move the springs to the middle notch.

Biba
 

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Trunk Spring Retainers

Hi there
Has anyone found of a "dealer" that sells the original or better made trunk retainers. Both of mine have been bent and need replacing.
Using a stick but that's lame.
Thanks, Kirk
 

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Discussion Starter #8
kirkovision, if Zorba has a heavy rubber spoiler see my above photos. Or remove the spoiler .
 
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