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Discussion Starter #1
I am installing a rebuilt Platinum gearbox (with a few tricks) into my trackcar Boris. The issue for me is when connecting shift rod linkage, how do I make sure that the correct gears will match from H-pattern to the lever that comes out of the actual transaxel?
 

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If input selector rod was positioned/installed correctly when the transaxle casings were assembled you will be fine. There is no ambiguity in connecting the external shift linkage - there is only one way and no adjustment.
Jes
 

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Richard Jemison
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7,886 Posts
Shift linkage

Jes is correct, but with Isostatic linkage it will always be sloppy.
After installing my close ratio box in my 86 GTV6 I was sorely disgusted with the shifter and built a modified Alfetta/early GTV6 type, and shifting is now very precise.

If anyone wants parts or complete Isostatic shifter I have 3 in the shop.
CHEAP!
 

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Hi
"...how do I make sure that the correct gears will match from H-pattern to the lever that comes out of the actual transaxel..."

I think what you mean is that inside the transaxle how do you postion the selector rod in regard to the shift forks.

If that is your query, then the selector fork sits in the middle between the 3rd 4th shift fork .

It would be better if you posted a picture with your question.

Bye
 

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But Mad North-Northwest
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Jes is correct, but with Isostatic linkage it will always be sloppy.
After installing my close ratio box in my 86 GTV6 I was sorely disgusted with the shifter and built a modified Alfetta/early GTV6 type, and shifting is now very precise.
I really have to disagree with this. My Milano always shifted reasonably tightly, even though there was a bit of rattle in the rear linkage. As part of a clutch replacement this month I had my mechanic refresh the linkage to tighten it up and WOW. It was pretty good before, but now it's **** near as good as any direct shifter I've used. In good shape the isostatic is one fine piece of kit!

Canadianromeo: if Richard doesn't have the parts, try APE. Though I suggest you go with Richard if you can as the one I got from APE wasn't in the best shape. Was able to mix-and-match good parts to make one good assembly, though.

Performatek also sells the "Monkey Shifter" kit that includes many (but not all) new parts for the linkage. In retrospect I should've just bought this.
 

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I've always found the Isostatic version to be superior to the Alfetta type so long as it's all in good nick. There's a lot more to go wrong with the Isostatic setup (more wearable parts) so when they're old and tired they're awful but I recall that the one-year-old 75 1.8 I bought in 1988 had a lovely shift and still did 3 years and 40,000 miles later when I sold it.

All my other 75s have had fairly dud shifts (but still better than any Alfetta I've owned) but then they've all been quite old!
 

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Linkage issues

Thanks Tom and all who commented,

Have been speaking with Andy of Performatek and will be taking in all comments before going ahead with any solutions. Going to consider a clutch replacement soon and that would be a good time to get this done.

Hope that I will be driving it this spring!

Canadianromeo


I really have to disagree with this. My Milano always shifted reasonably tightly, even though there was a bit of rattle in the rear linkage. As part of a clutch replacement this month I had my mechanic refresh the linkage to tighten it up and WOW. It was pretty good before, but now it's **** near as good as any direct shifter I've used. In good shape the isostatic is one fine piece of kit!

Canadianromeo: if Richard doesn't have the parts, try APE. Though I suggest you go with Richard if you can as the one I got from APE wasn't in the best shape. Was able to mix-and-match good parts to make one good assembly, though.

Performatek also sells the "Monkey Shifter" kit that includes many (but not all) new parts for the linkage. In retrospect I should've just bought this.
 
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