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Here is a series of photos: installing front spring into my '67 GTV. The technique would apply to all 105/115 cars. Caution: SAFETY FIRST, LAST AND ALWAYS!
Once you have all the parts ready, I start with a 5/16" threaded steel rod, they come in 36" length, at mininum: 6 nuts, 4 flat washers and 2 lock washers. Mark the rod for 9" lengths, make sure you put nuts on both side of the marks, then cut to length, use a grinder and wire wheel to clean the cut ends, then work the nuts off and on so you can easily thread each end. Set two rod in to the A-arms as pictured, at the top of each rod should be a nut/lock/nut combination well tightened, this is the end you'll turn; a place a flat washer between this combination and the A-arm for security and turning ease. Put the spring pan on the other end of the rods with a flat washer and nut. insert the spring with any shims your using, don't forget the top spring mount (if you haven't taken the car totally apart, the old upper spring mount may still be in place). Raise the spring pan with the spring "up" so the spring is now centered in place with the upper spring mount in its seat correctlly (a small jack will help, do not try to compress yet) now tighten the bottom nuts on the two rods to hold this hanging in place (no compression). I then use a small air-ratchet to turn the top nut clockwise with a wrench holding the bottom nut, the screw action will slowly compress the spring. Work each side slowly, a little bit at a time, alternate sides. For saftey you can keep the jack under the center of the spring pan, do not try to use the jack to compress the spring, you'll just start lifting the car off the jack stands! As you compress the spring and get near the end you'll notice the back doesn't close all the way up on the side without the rod, that's normal, as soon as the front is close you can insert the front bolt/nut/washer combination in the empty front hole, tighten this combination snug, but don't torque it. Once the rods are all the way tight you then can put the bolt/nut/washer combination in the rear empty hole, as this gap may still be a little big you can now place the jack on the edge near the rear of the pan to influence the pan the small distance you need to shorten the gap, again snug the bolt, do not torque. Next remove the rear rod by undo the nut/lock/nut combination. Insert bolt/nut/washer in the hole and snug. Now remove the front rod in the same manner and replace with the last bolt combination which in this case in the special unit for the sway bar interface. Now you can tighten all the nut/bolts. I prep all bolts with anti-sieze before installing and use a wood block with the jack so as not to tear up the finish. The process takes about one hour or so. I only use the two rods twice and then throw them away, some may want to use a rod only once.
Once you have all the parts ready, I start with a 5/16" threaded steel rod, they come in 36" length, at mininum: 6 nuts, 4 flat washers and 2 lock washers. Mark the rod for 9" lengths, make sure you put nuts on both side of the marks, then cut to length, use a grinder and wire wheel to clean the cut ends, then work the nuts off and on so you can easily thread each end. Set two rod in to the A-arms as pictured, at the top of each rod should be a nut/lock/nut combination well tightened, this is the end you'll turn; a place a flat washer between this combination and the A-arm for security and turning ease. Put the spring pan on the other end of the rods with a flat washer and nut. insert the spring with any shims your using, don't forget the top spring mount (if you haven't taken the car totally apart, the old upper spring mount may still be in place). Raise the spring pan with the spring "up" so the spring is now centered in place with the upper spring mount in its seat correctlly (a small jack will help, do not try to compress yet) now tighten the bottom nuts on the two rods to hold this hanging in place (no compression). I then use a small air-ratchet to turn the top nut clockwise with a wrench holding the bottom nut, the screw action will slowly compress the spring. Work each side slowly, a little bit at a time, alternate sides. For saftey you can keep the jack under the center of the spring pan, do not try to use the jack to compress the spring, you'll just start lifting the car off the jack stands! As you compress the spring and get near the end you'll notice the back doesn't close all the way up on the side without the rod, that's normal, as soon as the front is close you can insert the front bolt/nut/washer combination in the empty front hole, tighten this combination snug, but don't torque it. Once the rods are all the way tight you then can put the bolt/nut/washer combination in the rear empty hole, as this gap may still be a little big you can now place the jack on the edge near the rear of the pan to influence the pan the small distance you need to shorten the gap, again snug the bolt, do not torque. Next remove the rear rod by undo the nut/lock/nut combination. Insert bolt/nut/washer in the hole and snug. Now remove the front rod in the same manner and replace with the last bolt combination which in this case in the special unit for the sway bar interface. Now you can tighten all the nut/bolts. I prep all bolts with anti-sieze before installing and use a wood block with the jack so as not to tear up the finish. The process takes about one hour or so. I only use the two rods twice and then throw them away, some may want to use a rod only once.
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