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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi,

Is there any other, more clever way of how to install front coil springs, or what other tools to use? Exept of course the strut coil spring compressor which would be piece of cake, but which I don´t have? Have had hell of a time with all trials up to now to come this far at all and I still haven´t tried to put the spring in place, which with four clamps on can be elaborate, but ok, I think I will be able to take of two of them right before the installation, right now though and having the compressed spring at home, I don´t dare.
Any suggestions are appreciated.

Dennis
 

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Hello, I had similar issues last time, those clamps are terrible, get some with a locking plate to avoid decapitation, machine mart in england do some, those you have are similar to the ones I bought from Halfords for more money which tried to kill me
Jago
 

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I have done the Front spring installation similar to how its shown in the service manual with 4 long threaded rods inserted thru the lower A-arm and the spring pan and drawn up gradually by tightening each corner little by little. Once the spring pan is in place on the lower A-arm, remove 1 threaded rod at a time and insert the original type bolt and nut securing each before removing the next rod. DaveB
 

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Hi Dennis

Four lengths of 10mm threaded rod each about 200mm long, with nuts and flat washers.

Put the spring in from underneath, followed by the pan and then as Dave says, insert the 4 lengths of threaded rod where the 4 bolts should be & tighten gradually. Work in a sequence until the pan is tight against the lower A arm, remove rods one at a time & replace with the original nuts and bolts.

Takes time - they are BIG springs, but its a safe method & the spring cannot pop out. I've used this method for 105 Juniors as well & occasionally you have to loosen one rod & wind the threaded rod down as one end may get caught against a spring coil, but it's quite safe to release one at a time.

After doing the job I generally toss the threaded rods into the scrap steel bin as the threads become quite *sharp* and I worry about re-using them too many times......

Ciao
Greig
 

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I've done it with one 5/8ths inch diameter threaded rod down the center with lots of grease.

Doug
Long Beach CA
 

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Dennis, BE CAREFUL. The Chinese/Taiwan crap I have tried to use and it is a cluster f-ck as you have learned and draws a bead of sweat thinking about it. The problem you have now is that there is doubtful enough travel with the compressers to totally expand the spring to neutral if you need to compare lengths at rest. Real nasty and can maim or kill. The threaded rod method is about as simple and safe as it gets. You might have to take what you have to a spring shop to let them safely take everything apart if you need to. Good luck. Rick

PS what the hell is the spacer all about? never seen one quite so thick
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Guys,

Thanks for all your inputs. I didn´t understand the procedure with the four threaded rods at first, but the function of it struck me later on, when checking out exploaded view of that area in the spare parts cataloque. Seems really being very simple, safe and no need for any expensive tools.

Rick, I was chocked by that spacer myself, its really some piece of work !!! Much thicker than the one on the other side, but I don´t have any other and maybe there´s a purpose with this one being there, so it will have to go back on again. Odd, if my memory still serves me, there was none like this on the Spider.

Dennis
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I´ll take care of all of those details again once I have the car painted and together, as I don´t want any more to prolong the pain of having parts spread all over, my apartment, basement and the warehouse where its parked. It has been three tough years of resto work under conditions where I, not having own house with a garage and travelling 50 km every time something needs to be done, shouldn´t actually have this as a hobby at all.
Not speaking of getting too old for this s--t as well, at least regarding the bodywork done, sheere slavery.

Dennis
 

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Dennis you are too modest !!

The bodywork Dennis has re-created from a slightly rusty Sprint with hidden accident damage to the LF Fender is little short of amazing. I've followed the progress of this car off line for several years now and have been super impressed every step of the way.

Ciao
Greig
 

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I,ve never used a spring compressor

put the car on jackstands and put a hyd jack under the spring pan
take the spring pan bolts out and slowly let the jack down
[take the bottom shock nut off]

the spring comes out the bottom
I have a 750 and this works on a 105 too
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Ron,

I have tried this, although a bit differently, I had the car on jack stands and tried to compress the spring applying pressure with the jack on the spring pan and upwards, but it didn´t work, the whole car was lyfting like nothing, even though the motor is in.

P.S.
When reading your post once again, I think you lost me, I don´t want to take off the spring, its already out, I had difficulties installing it back again.

But no sweat, its already done.

Dennis
 

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Here is a simple method which combines all the above thoughts. Two threaded rods diagonally through the wishbone and pan...loosely tighten nuts. Position trolley jack but use nylon rope through the top shock absorber hole (or just over the chassis rail) to form a belt which then sits under the jack. As you start to raise the jack the rope stops the car from lifting and allows the spring to compress. Do up the nuts as a safety precaution as the jack compresses the spring and until the pan is near enough to get the real bolts in the other two holes, remove rods and fit proper bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Hi Stuart,

Thanks for the tips, but I think the problem here is the spring not being positioned in a straight line from bottom up, but has quite an angle, hence certain difficulties to get the jack under it and compress it. One would rather think here when already having the treaded rods in place, although they should maybe be four of them, it might be just as well to tighten it all together as it is.

Dennis
 

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Works for me thanks. Move the jack so it lifts in an arc which is directly under the spring.
 

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I,ve never used a spring compressor

put the car on jackstands and put a hyd jack under the spring pan
take the spring pan bolts out and slowly let the jack down
[take the bottom shock nut off]

the spring comes out the bottom
I have a 750 and this works on a 105 too
I do the same thing with the car on my Mid-rise lift and use a floor jack with a 2X4. I undo the bottom shock nuts first. Don't forget to also remove the one bolt that holds the rebound strap. The whole suspension relaxes and the spring just slides out. Reverse to assemble.

George
 
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