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I just received my 123 distributor from IAP and am getting ready to install it in my 71 Spider with a 1750 converted to Webers (SPICA manifold). The car has the stock SPICA cams (for now), Blue Bosch coil and a stock exhaust system. I'm using a Euro Airbox on the intake.
I've researched the threads on removal and installation of the distributor itself, and found this -spider-distributer-removal.html
and I think I've got it down, with just a couple of remaining questions:
1. How far would I need to roll the car to find TDC in the worst case scenario? A sloping drive on a rainy day makes that an undesirable option. Can I instead just jack up the rear, put the car in first(?) and spin a tire to find TDC?
2. The RML says that it has an LED light with which to set the static timing. Is that likely to be very close, or am I definitely going to have to play with the timing light, afterwards?
3. The RML comes with a selection of 16 Curves, chosen by a Set-screw covered selector on the bottom of the distributor; listed here in the 123 Installation instructions; third page.
The obvious choice is Curve # 8 for the 1750 Spider. However are there any of the others that are 'better' for my stock/ + webers street engine?
I did find this post which came to a consensus that the the #8 curve isn't that great but there was no consensus ever reached between curves 1, 6, or E.
4. There seems to be a lot of discussion of 6 or 8 degrees off TDC for setting the static timing properly.... however, ain't no degree marks on my pulley and I'm probably not up to measur[ing] the diameter of the pulley, calculating the circumference - pi*D, then measuring the distance from TDC to the static timing mark as Circumference * d/360 where d is the number of degrees of static advance while the engine is in the car and the fan and shroud are installed. Any suggestions here? Anybody already make a template put on the pulley?
Thanks guys
I've researched the threads on removal and installation of the distributor itself, and found this -spider-distributer-removal.html
and I think I've got it down, with just a couple of remaining questions:
1. How far would I need to roll the car to find TDC in the worst case scenario? A sloping drive on a rainy day makes that an undesirable option. Can I instead just jack up the rear, put the car in first(?) and spin a tire to find TDC?
2. The RML says that it has an LED light with which to set the static timing. Is that likely to be very close, or am I definitely going to have to play with the timing light, afterwards?
3. The RML comes with a selection of 16 Curves, chosen by a Set-screw covered selector on the bottom of the distributor; listed here in the 123 Installation instructions; third page.
The obvious choice is Curve # 8 for the 1750 Spider. However are there any of the others that are 'better' for my stock/ + webers street engine?
I did find this post which came to a consensus that the the #8 curve isn't that great but there was no consensus ever reached between curves 1, 6, or E.
4. There seems to be a lot of discussion of 6 or 8 degrees off TDC for setting the static timing properly.... however, ain't no degree marks on my pulley and I'm probably not up to measur[ing] the diameter of the pulley, calculating the circumference - pi*D, then measuring the distance from TDC to the static timing mark as Circumference * d/360 where d is the number of degrees of static advance while the engine is in the car and the fan and shroud are installed. Any suggestions here? Anybody already make a template put on the pulley?
Thanks guys