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I still havent figured out my SPICA tuning issues... I want to take off the inlet manifold but wonder if that can be done easily (I dont have a good working garage anymore - will be doing this in my underground parking).
I assume the cooling duct above it is part of the inlet manifold assembly ?
Will cooling liquid spill out or are there no passages between the block and the manifold ?

i also want to take the SPICA pump off. that I know has an oil passage. I'll need to put a rubber plug or cork in it to block it off. I think I remember its a nightmare to take off or am I wrong ?

Thanks

Roland
 

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The cooling duct is part of the manifold and you will loose some coolant when you remove it, draining some from the radiator before hand will minimize the amount lost. I don't know much about the Spica but I would think just placing a rag below and over the oil passage would help catch what you will loose, I can not imagine it being too much.
 

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The easiest way to pull the Spica pump is to split it horizontally. That is, use a shaved shallow 10mm socket to remove the (6?) nuts on the pump (front) section of the pump. The whole pump, except for its sump, which is still fastened to the engine block by 4 more bolts, will pull up vertically. It's really pretty quick and simple. You won't lose very much oil, either, and removing the Spica pump sump from the block is now much easier, too.

Pulling the intake manifold off the head is a *****, and I've never actually done it without pulling the head off the block first. Are you really doing all this just because you can't tune the system properly? If so, what do you hope to accomplish? Are you going to bolt on a carb system instead?
 

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Please see the Carburetor/Fuel Injection section for advice on the Spica pump.

The intake manifolds is not that difficult to remove. However, you must take care when unbolting the hard lines from the pump to the injectors. There are multiple attachments points.

You should also set the engine at top-dead center before removing the Spica pump. It is timed by the toothed belt from the front of the crank.
 
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