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Discussion Starter #1
One of my Sprint front caliper (left) is leaking by the handbrake adjuster.
The car has inboard brake system.
When someone brakes we can see brake fluid comming out of the caliper where the adjuster goes inside the caliper.
Is it possible to repair or it must be replaced?

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yes I know that there are kits...
But the problem is not on the piston rings, it is on the hand brake actuator (possibly a rubber).
 

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Its been a long long time but....

Those seals through the adjuster were impossible to find a long time ago when I was looking for them. However I did find that more often than not leaking was caused but the adjuster not being "locked" off. If they are locked off 9 out of 10 times they seal fine. Try adjusting them in and out a few times and then locking them off, you never know your luck
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for all replys.
Problem solved, replacins 3 o-rings that costed 8 euros, bought without any problem in a brakes shop.

Regard
 

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Thanks for all replys.
Problem solved, replacins 3 o-rings that costed 8 euros, bought without any problem in a brakes shop.
Regard
Is anyone still reading this thread???? I'm rebuilding an Alfasud front inboard caliper and am having trouble dismantling the adjuster and handbrake mechanism in the inner half of the caliper. There is a difficult circlip at the top of the 7mm hex adjuster shaft, and another inside the caliper cylinder where the adjuster stud is seen. How did you dismantle your caliper please, Grale, to replace your O-rings?
Many thanks,
Graham H, N.Z.
 

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From memory there is a circlip at the base of the 7mm adjuster. We have a Sprint here with the same issues so will post pics as soon as we get them out.
 

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Yes there's a tiny one at the base of the 7mm hex. I don't know where I'd find circlip pliers that could reach down there.
And there's a normal-sized one at the base of the threaded rod inside the caliper. Again, unreachable by normal circlip pliers.
Many thanks, G
 

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Yes, they are a PITA. I think I used a small pick to pry them out and a small deep socket to push them back in. Put it in a vice and crank on the adjuster, the adjuster will push the clip out - at least that's what happened on a couple of cars with seized pistons
 

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Hmmm, yes, a small strong pick might do the job. Next time! For this time, I've freed the sticky handbrake internal bits up enough without dismantling caliper further, so it'll go back on the car as is. We'll see!
 

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20200104_124849.jpg

You need a set of these for working on these calipers

I don't have pics of the clip you're talking about but I did find these in the spares box. The handbrake actuator rod actually sits in a separate chamber and protected by an o-ring on the inner adjuster shaft. This chamber often gets clogged with rust so it's possible to remove the lower shaft seal and lube the chamber without removing the piston, or remore that clip and carefully turn out the adjuster.



However due to the nature and location of these calipers, I recommend a full strip down and re-furbish, this is the inner mechanism - everything should be clean and moving freely.



The outer section


The reason I say strip and re-furb is often all it takes is crud under the piston dust covers or rust in the adjusters and you cannot move the pistons to adjust them, nor will they return to their normal positions after braking or using the handbrake.

If it is leaking from the handbrake lever rod, I suspect the inner adjuster shaft O-ring has failed. It sits on the shaft under a circlip and cup/spring assy. There are two rods in the pic above, one with an o-ring and one without.
1610014
 

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Thanks for your reply: that's a tremendous amount of info and photos about the innards of these brakes. The photo of the dismantled handbrake mechanism parts reminded me that years ago I did manage to dismantle one of mine, but for the present project I was defeated by the little circlip seen when you look down on the top end of the 7mm hex inner adjuster shaft. I think I can see it in your photo above of the assembled caliper. I don't recall how I got this out in my earlier dismantly above. Anyway I'll buy myself a set of picks!
On your suggestion of full strip and refurb whenever working on these things, yes good practice I agree, but I must say I don't go to that much trouble unless I'm forced to! Almost all of my refurbs have been due to rust under the piston dust-boot, making the pad movement and adjustment sticky, as you say. For these I merely remove the piston from each half caliper, clean it and the bore, then reassemble with new main seal and dust boot.
Thanks again for the great reference info in your post! Very much appreciated.
Best regards,
Graham H, NZ (Sud tiQ and 2 x Sud Sprint Veloce)
 

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Sweet as, over the years we got tired of fettling with these brakes and if you're not inclined to keep things original, there is always the option to swap everything out with the 33 mk1 brakes, which then gives you a rear handbrake and the option to re-drill your hubs to 4x100 or whatever you like.

You'll need the 33 front hubs, struts, disks, shocks etc and maybe a different driveshaft spacer. For the rear you need a complete axle, cables and handbrake lever.

This gives you a more reliable system with much longer pad life, for racing I combined the two systems at the front which gave me twice the braking, less heat, brake fade etc.
1610099

1610100


I don't have pics of the rear but here you can see the 33 rear axle/brakes fitted
1610101


You can do the same with Suds, here I fitted the 33 mk1 brakes into a Giardinetta 20yrs ago and it's still running fine (still using the same pads)
1610102


My inner disks were Brembo a/m with 6 bolts instead of 4 like OEM. This is the spacer I needed to make the shafts work properly
1610103
 

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Yes a lot of people round here do the 33 outboard conversion you describe, especially racers, but we haven't gone to that extent. One of our cars never goes on the track so it's been left completely standard in the brakes dept, while the other two do see a bit of track time and we've got around their brake fade problem by a vented inboard disc mod that a good keen man in the Alfa Club worked out .It uses Brembo 6-hole discs (common and cheap, used by Bongo vans etc for goodness's sake!),with a bit of re-drilling and minor machining, and spacers in the Sud calipers, and a suitable width spacer to the driveshaft. Works a treat - with fresh brake fluid and decent pads, we never have to worry about brakes any more, at our entry-level racedays. And the fancy pads we use in those two cars last for ages and ages, partly 'cos they ARE fancy I guess, but mainly I think 'cos they stay so much cooler.
On one of these cars we also made the optional extra mod which is to rip out all the pad adjuster and handbrake mechanisms from the calipers, and turn them into ordinary self-adjusting disc brakes. Plus add a hydraulic handbrake working on the rear discs, and then you have a handbrake that actually works too!
Must do that hydr h'brake mod on the second car too. Some day.......
Best regards,
GH in NZ

P.S. That's a very nice Sprint in your photos! Looks like it might've been a post-1983 plastic-bumper model when it started life, but gosh it looks an awful lot better than that now! Nice work!
 
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