[alfaparticle]

The key is hard to turn when it is inserted into the lock and it has to retract the steering lock. After that it is OK. Do I need a new switch or is there a fix for this condition. I have tried lubricating it.
The car is a 79 spider - the one with the expensive ignition switch.
Thanks

 

[ghnl]

If you wiggle steering wheel while trying to turn the key is it easier? Perhaps the steering lock needs lubrication or de-burring? Squirting lubricant into the lock cylinder won't help the steering lock.

 

[Tifosi]

Presuming no tightness issues between 'on' and 'start', yeah, the column lock is prolly giving you a fight as Eric describes.

 

[alfaparticle]

Wiggling the steering wheel does not help. I have been leaving the key in the ignition and not turning it fully CCW. It is safe at work as we have lots of security (nuke). When I remove and replace the key it is sometimes so hard to break free that I worry about breaking the key. I have a couple of spares of the later type switch but none of these. I may have to break down and buy a new one.

 

[Gubi]

If it's a problem with the tumbler or steering lock portion, a competent locksmith should be able to sort it out I'd think. Just pull the cylinder and take it to a shop.

Never done it on the Spider, but I pulled the cylinder on the Triumph completely apart and rekeyed it myself. I'd done a *little* lock work before but even so it was a reasonably straightforward job. I remember that it would have been quite easy to permanently remove the bolt that locks the steering column if I'd wanted to.

Again, this was on the TR7, but I can't imagine the Spider being too crazy different.

 

[alfaparticle]

Thanks. I will pull it and give it a try. Removing the lock bolt maybe the solution.

I almost wished that there was no lock bolt on my GTV6 a couple of weeks ago. It broke down about a mile from home. I got my wife to tow me home with a rope. I forgot to turn on the ignition and almost ran into a pole when she made the first turn.

 

[Tifosi]

easy to permanently remove the bolt that locks the steering column if I'd wanted to.
Again, this was on the TR7, but I can't imagine the Spider being too crazy different.

Thanks. I will pull it and give it a try. Removing the lock bolt maybe the solution.

>Clickme< to see how.

 

[alfaparticle]

My S2 switch is a different style but I expect the procedure is similar.
Thanks

 

[Alfar7]

Ign Switch

Ed I have a new one in the box with keys.
But check the relays outside the fuse box. That is usually the problem if switch is sound.

 

[alfaparticle]

Hi Richard,
If it is the ignition switch for the S2 spider then I will buy it from you. It is the one that looks like this:

 

[Tifosi]

Oh, geeze, I didn't even think about the difference from S2 to S3.
My bad.

 

[Alfar7]

switch

If it is the ignition switch for the S2 spider then I will buy it from you. It is the one that looks like this:

No, it is later type..

 

[alfaparticle]

I have two good spare switches of the later type. That's Sod's Law.

 

[aldo]

Thanks. I will pull it and give it a try. Removing the lock bolt maybe the solution.

I almost wished that there was no lock bolt on my GTV6 a couple of weeks ago. It broke down about a mile from home. I got my wife to tow me home with a rope. I forgot to turn on the ignition and almost ran into a pole when she made the first turn.

I'm not sure why but I got a real laugh picturing that one.

 

[mbb]

I have removed the steering lock from an S3. Everything works better and the car will steer normally with or without the key. I consider that a plus. Probably no harder on an S2, besides you have to remove the lock anyway. Good time to add an ignition relay as well.

Good luck with the project.

 

[alfaparticle]

The big current through the ignition switch is to the starter. I have starter relays on all my cars. The ignition current is much less. I have not heard of an ignition switch failing because of current in the ignition circuit.