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Discussion Starter #1
Read a lot of threads on ignition switches but couldn't find this exact issue. My switch was bad, I bought a new one from Centerline but theirs has 3 wires, one connector, mine has 5, 2 connectors, '84 S3.

Any way to make this work?
 

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Hi Eric,

I removed the tumbler from the IAP lock and inserted it in my old housing. Works like a charm and I didn't have to mess with any wiring.

David
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hi Eric,

I removed the tumbler from the IAP lock and inserted it in my old housing. Works like a charm and I didn't have to mess with any wiring.

David
Wonderful idea!! Makes me wish I hadn't already snaked the wiring out of the column, but that's small enough potatoes. I'll do that tomorrow, thank you!
 

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If your old one has 3 fat wires and 2 skinny ones. The fat wires are the wires that actually run the car. The 2 skinny ones are for seat belt buzzers, lights or something like that.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yup, 3 fats, 2 skinny. Heading out in a few mins to test it before fitting it in place. If indeed it's just buzzers or courtesy light stuff I'm not going to care and will use as is, if not I'll try the suggestion to swap switch housings.

Was pretty beat by the time I posted the question as after work I swapped in a new radiator and did an oil change. I bought the parts to fix my A/C system but then read up on the split pulley and decided it wasn't worth it. No desire to pull a rad every time I want to adjust a belt :).....next time I'm at the boneyard I'm going to grab an adjustable idler pulley assembly and try to fab up a different system.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Final update

Never work late and tired :). Mine had 6 wires.

3 going into the large 3 wire connector. One was a blank on the car side. That turned out to be for the starter, which was a separate single thick back connector.

New switch had large 3 wire connector. When I installed new switch, the blank on car side matched where black wire was on new switch, so figured out to leave that out of 3 wire and run to separate starter connector wire.

Everything works except key buzzer when door opened and key is in iggie.

No, you can't swap the 'wire set' on this type of switch, unless you only wanted to replace the key cylinder. The wires are soldered to the switch assembly which is riveted together, you'd be rebuilding the old switch using the new parts (and that looks to be a pita).

This looks to be crying for a starter relay, so that's the next bit she gets.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The how to:

On the 84 Spider, there are a total of 7 wires for the ignition switch
2 female spade (small) for the switch light (included in the Centerline switch)
2 small black wires with male and female spades for door buzzer (not included in centerline switch.
1 large black wire with female spade (not included in Centerline switch)
3 large wires, 2 red, 1 brown, in a 3 wire connector. (1 red actually goes to a blank).

Instructions:

1. Remove the 3 large male spade lugs from the 3 wire connector on the new switch. Look at your existing 3 wire female connector and you'll see the bottom lug (where the new switch has black lug), is a blank.

2. After routing the wire bundle through the column, put the large male red and brown lugs back into the male connector to correspond with the brown and red in your existing female connector.

3. Remove the Male connector lug from the large black wire and replace with female (you can use the one from your old switch). Connect this to your existing large single female connector (also black wire). This is your starter wire.

4. Connect the two small female switch light connectors.

5. Electrical tape off or cap the two small black connectors that are left, we won't use them.

The only functionality lost is key in ignition buzzer when door is opened.
 
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