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My '82 Spider has had starting problems ever since I picked it up in October. The latest is that when I turn the key to "On" nothing happens. It will crank just fine but will not start. Thinking maybe the ignition switch was faulty. So in trying to identify what was going on, with the key in the "On" position, I was checking voltage at the #6 fuse (Listed in the owner's manual as "Windshield wiper motor - Washer pump"). I inadvertently touched the # 5 fuse ("Fusebox illumination bulb - Door buzzer - Radio") with the voltmeter lead -- and the door buzzer, alternator light, e-brake light, radio and, most importantly, the fuel pump, all activated -- just as if the key in the ignition was working properly. Leaving that "jump" between the #5 and #6 fuses in place allowed me to crank and start the engine with no problem. Removing the jump killed the engine; reattaching it let me start up again and run. I also discovered that the fuel pump and all those lights stay on even without the key in place as long as the #5 and #6 are connected to each other.

So here are my questions for all you Italian electronics experts out there, Italian, in this case, modifying electronics, not experts. 馃槃 First, would it do any harm if, as a temporary work-around, I rig a switch so I can control whether the "jump " is active, and use that to get the consistent starting I've been looking for? And second, is the problem more likely to be at the fusebox itself now or is the ignition switch still my prime suspect?
 

But Mad North-Northwest
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Yeah, sure sounds like you have a bad ignition switch
 

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Quite handily, I found the fuse box part of the schematic for your 82 Spider in this thread. From what we can see, fuses 1 to 5 are fed from the thick red wires obviously coming from the battery, and fuses 6 to 8 are fed by the brown wire from the ignition switch. So a jumper from fuse 5 to 6 on their input side (left on the diagram) will connect the output of fuses 6 to 8 to the battery. So yes, it sounds very much like a dead ignition switch, and yes, you can temporarily install a switch.

Fuse boxes with loose fitting fuses or corroded contact are known to cause problems but since everything came alive by jumping from a voltage source to the fuse input shows the problem is not there.


1681038
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Quite handily, I found the fuse box part of the schematic for your 82 Spider in this thread. From what we can see, fuses 1 to 5 are fed from the thick red wires obviously coming from the battery, and fuses 6 to 8 are fed by the brown wire from the ignition switch. So a jumper from fuse 5 to 6 on their input side (left on the diagram) will connect the output of fuses 6 to 8 to the battery. So yes, it sounds very much like a dead ignition switch, and yes, you can temporarily install a switch.

Fuse boxes with loose fitting fuses or corroded contact are known to cause problems but since everything came alive by jumping from a voltage source to the fuse input shows the problem is not there.


View attachment 1681038
Outstanding! I have a similar schematic but without the colors and relative wire gauges. This is so-o-o-o much more sensible. Papajam was quite a guy, yes? And thanks for letting me know the switch idea seems safe.
 
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